On Thursday I had to go to Chester from Glasgow, great drive with absolutely no problems. Left at 6:30 got to Chester at 10:15.
Had meeting. Had Lunch. Had more Meeting and left at 4:00
Arrived home at 8:15.
As I said no problems, cruise control all the way 34.8 MPG
My wife was out on the sauce last night so this morning I had intended to give her a lift to collect her car.
Tried to start it and nothing. Tried several more times and still nothing. Phoned LR Assist.
Technicial came out jump started it no problems at all tested the battery and got a good report, cheched the flow of current from the battery and there was a 0.5amp draw going to the fuse box which after pulling each fuse and relay out one at a time he could not identify.
Any ideas or similar experiences? Simon

2007 Freelander 2 Rimini Red HSE Auto
(Daily Driver)
1991 Range Rover CSK No. 98
(Toy)

I had simalar problem on a customers car. Turned out to be the inlet flap motor on the front of the engine. It lost its position sensing and the engine ecu would not go to sleep causing battery drain. The inlet flap motor was making a noise all the time trying to find the position it wanted. Have a listen for any strange noises under the bonnet with it switched off.

The engine ECU give up after 5 cycles of failed flap repositioning and stores an error.
So, in my opinion, the drain must be looked elsewhere.
Sometime, on some firmwares, the lights left on Auto position are known to drain the batery.

Total drain should be 0.023 ma when car has (gone to sleep) shutdown it takes 30min to shutdown ,when removing each fuse this waiting time will be needed to get a true indication that the circuit is not the cause.the CAN bus will wake every time a fuse is removed .
most faults I find tend to be Audio units not shuting off and a software up date will solve it (FORD).
Trip to dealer for you!!
If you have a non gen twin elecs fitted check them first as it would prove costly if the dealer finds them to be the cause! (dicky split charge relay)

all the best Tone

tonyjones1968 wrote:

Total drain should be 0.023 ma when car has (gone to sleep) shutdown it takes 30min to shutdown ,when removing each fuse this waiting time will be needed to get a true indication that the circuit is not the cause.the CAN bus will wake every time a fuse is removed .
most faults I find tend to be Audio units not shuting off and a software up date will solve it (FORD).
Trip to dealer for you!!
If you have a non gen twin elecs fitted check them first as it would prove costly if the dealer finds them to be the cause! (dicky split charge relay)

all the best Tone

Tony the car was delivered to the dealer last night and a courtesy Freelander delivered but due to my expired driving ban I cannot drive it
Interesting about the 30 sec delay I would have thought that the LR technician should have known about this when I suggested it to him.
The twin electrics were all fitted by the main dealer so even any probs there are not my problem  Simon

2007 Freelander 2 Rimini Red HSE Auto
(Daily Driver)
1991 Range Rover CSK No. 98
(Toy)

for this exact reason our FL2 is back at LPR for the 3rd time... told them we dont want the car back until its sorted.

last time they changed the relay.

Simon,delay required on removing each fuse in turn is 30 mins, fl2 shares many things as its built from the Ford parts bin with the same PSA engines as our mondeo and smax (dw12),I cannot give you any more help than this as Landrover software is different but shares the same IDS platform,I have done this test many times and have found bugs in audio/Nokia comunications modules software from bluetooth pairings (Blackberry storm) keeping the unit awake and drawing current. Hard reset and the car will be ok on a temp basis,but ford have us download from a flash drive straight to the comms module but this is car specific,and may not be your problem,please let us know how you get on at the dealers,this will help build known fixes to probs on this forum.

all the best Tone

tonyjones1968 wrote:

Simon,delay required on removing each fuse in turn is 30 mins, fl2 shares many things as its built from the Ford parts bin with the same PSA engines as our mondeo and smax (dw12),I cannot give you any more help than this as Landrover software is different but shares the same IDS platform,I have done this test many times and have found bugs in audio/Nokia comunications modules software from bluetooth pairings (Blackberry storm) keeping the unit awake and drawing current. Hard reset and the car will be ok on a temp basis,but ford have us download from a flash drive straight to the comms module but this is car specific,and may not be your problem,please let us know how you get on at the dealers,this will help build known fixes to probs on this forum.

all the best Tone

Simon,here is ford tsb to help diag fault.


TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.70/2009
18 September 2009
[Printable HTML page]
Circulate to: Service Manager Body Shop Manager Parts Manager Foremen Receptionists Technicians

© Ford Motor Company

All rights reserved.

This bulletin represents technical service information only. Without exception all gratis repairs and replacements are subject to the individual warranty and policy procedures of the supervisory Ford Company. The illustrations, technical information, data and descriptive text in this issue, to the best of our knowledge, were correct at the time of publication.

Subject/Concern: Key off load measurement
Model:
S-MAX/Galaxy 2006.5 (03/2006–) Assembly Plant: Genk
Mondeo 2007.5 (02/2007–) Assembly Plant: Genk
Markets: All
Section: 418-02; 414-01
Summary

To ensure correct measurement after reconnecting the battery the vehicle must be brought to <Ignition> state for approx. 3 seconds to allow the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) to read in remote key data. Not doing so will result in current peaks of approx. 200 mA for every remote key signal seen by the vehicle during the key off load measurement.

Putting the vehicle into <Ignition> state will result in peak current of more than 75 A on vehicles with diesel engine. The amperemeter therefore needs to be short-cut during this high current phase to avoid damage to the amperemeter. The actual measurement should start approximately 30 minutes after switching ignition OFF.

The required measuring lines can be ordered by your local tool supplier or e.g. by:


• Company Conrad Electronic: www.conrad.com

- 1 piece measuring line (black, 500 mm, 2.5 mm²) with order number: 122655-49
- 1 piece measuring line (red, 500 mm, 2.5 mm²) with order number:122668-49
- 1 piece measuring line (yellow, 250 mm, 2.5 mm²) with order number: 122616-49
- 1 piece clip terminal (red 4 mm / 30 mm) with order number: 122149-49
- 1 piece clip terminal (black 4 mm / 30 mm) with order number: 122017-49

• NOTE: After reconnecting the battery, the battery clamp nut should be tightened to 5.4 Nm ± 0.9 Nm.


Repair/Claim Coding
OASIS 203200, 290000
General Equipment
Amperemeter

Service Information
CAUTION: Ignoring the following may result in damage to the equipment being used.

To avoid damage to the amperemeter do not perform any key off load measurement without using the short-cut line.

Amperemeter with measuring lines without electrical connector for the short-cut line



Item Description
1 Measuring line black and red without electrical connector for the short-cut line

2 Measuring line with electrical connector for the short-cut line


Service Instruction
Key off load measurement

Preparing operations

1. Disconnect the battery positive cable.

Partially remove the battery cover to get access to the battery positive cable.






Electrical connection of the measuring equipment

2. Connect the red clip terminal to the positive battery terminal and the black clip terminal to the battery positive cable.

1. Red clip terminal connected to the positive battery terminal.

2. Positive battery terminal.

3. Black clip terminal connected to the battery positive cable.

4. Battery positive cable.






3. Connect the measuring lines to the clip terminals and the amperemeter.

1. Amperemeter

2. Red measuring line from the red clip terminal to the corresponding connector on the amperemeter.

3. Black measuring line from the red clip terminal to the corresponding connector on the amperemeter.

4. Yellow measuring line (short-cut line).






4. Manually lock the hood latch.

5. Switch ignition ON for three seconds.

6. Switch ignition OFF.

7. NOTE: Make sure that all windows are fully closed.

Using the central locking function to lock the vehicle.

Leave the vehicle untouched for at least 30 minutes.

8. Disconnect the yellow measuring line (short-cut line).






9. Read off the actual value from the amperemeter.

Normal key off value is max. 25 mA.
If the value is >25 mA refer to the relevant Workshop Manual Section <Diagnosis>.
Disconnect the measuring equipment from the vehicle.






10. Connect the battery positive cable. For additional information, refer to S-MAX/Galaxy 2006.5 Workshop Manual Section 414-01.

errr.....

Also had this problem the day after picking up my car.
I think I had the lightswitch on Auto. Since that I always set it to Off when leaving the car. No problem since. FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

redlabel - and you think thats acceptable?!

Absolutely not. Dealer is having a look 5. August. FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

Had a flat battery after a few days without using the car. Started with no problems via another battery, call out mechanic said it was a very common fault with modern cars due the systems being on stand by if the car is left unlocked as mine was. The answer, confirmed by Land Rover, is to always lock the car with the remote; this then shuts down virtually all systems. If the car is left locked for an extended period, say 3 weeks or more, the car goes into complete shutdown and can only be opened with the metal emergency key. Putting the main key into the ignition slot will then bring it all back to life. Have had no further problems since I started the routine of locking it. Hope this helps.

Had a flat battery a few months ago, AA man checked everything, jump started it and tested battery and it was charging fine, gave it a while and restarted and no problems. AA man could not find a cause.

FAULT - the night before I was on my mobile phone (paired to the car) upto when I returned home. I switched off the ignition whilst hanging up the phone and 'think' that the car thought the connection was still live hence still running a current (as though radio was on for example). I might be wrong but its the only time it has ever happened and the car has been fine since - i just make sure i hang up on the phone a minute or so before i switch the ignition off!