avtur wrote:

However different dealer groups have their own arrangments for bulk supply of lubricants. If your dealer if part of a group that has an allaince with Castrol thats what you'll get; however that won't be the case for all dealers, for instance I know my dealer is tied to Mobil products.

Correct...

Recommended Castrol GTX Magnatec
But some large dealers with multi franchise products may well have a different oil suppliers...can be confusing.
L/R definately have alliance for Castrol as i have been to meeting for L/R held at the Castrol plant in Swindon  If i sell it for that i'll be out of business in a week..

yamaha-fan can you help? see my post above about choosing an oil. The first one !!!

Hello Efthys
with pleasure! Castrol has recently changed the names of its motor oil products from SXL or GTX or GTD or similar to Magnatec xWxx/C3, A1 etc. In its oil specification list (little pamphlet) available to buyers and repair shops Castrol itself confirms that all Magnatec oils are HC oils and not synthetic oils! So Castrol is honest as they claim that their magnatec oils are good and competitive due to the addition of well balanced additives. Mobil produces only a limited range of fully synthetic motor oils, all of them must be Mobil 1 xWxx syntec oils. However, for example in Germany Mobil does not offer certain Mobil 1 products such as the Mobil 1 5W40 syntec for whatever reasons. I would by all means recommend not to search for an oil what may be difficult to get on your market or in your country, but to look more to the oil specification which MUST be written on the oil bottle. Any 5W30 or 5W40 motor oil with the specification ACEA A3/B3 or BETTER (A4/A5 for petrol engines and B4/B5 for diesel engines) will do. For Greece and its high temperatures in the summer however, I would recommend not to use motor oil with a specification of less than 5W40 according to ACEA A3/A4 for petrol engines.
Diesel engines with soot particle filter (DPF - diesel particulate filter) MUST use a motor oil with a very low ash content of less than 0,8 Vol%, otherwise you may get into problems with a "soot-baked" diesel particle filter.
Unfortunately, Landrover does not appreciate this by recommending to use motor oil according to Ford Norm 913B, which is a very simple norm. Castrol Magnatec 5W30 A1 is an oil according to this Ford specification, but conforms only to ACEA A1/B1 - unsuitable in my opinion and experience. So to avoid problems with your soot particle filter (DPF) I highly recommend to use any motor oil with fulfills the Mercedes specification 229/3.1 (oil change intervalls of 15.000 km) or 229/5.1 (oil change intervalls of 25.000 km). Such oils have an ash content of less than 0,5 Vol% and all such oils fulfill ACEA A3/A4 and B3/B4.

Yamaha-Fan

Tnx yamaha-fan  The first one !!!

to: yamaha-fan plz advise

I was able to find OILS made/produced by Valvoline (Syn power MST 5W30 and Durablend FE 5W30) and also an AGIP 5W30 oil meeting B3 and B4 standards. The mechanic suggested a mobil 20W50 for the cyprus hot weather 20c to 40c.

yamaha-fan what do you thing about the Valvoline oils in general (are the truly synthetic), and also what to the mean by extended oil drain? The first one !!!

Hi Efthys
Valvoline motor oils are good products as long as they are syn power oils. No problem to use such syn power Valvoline oils as such oils have a good HTHS value even for hot Cyprus weather.
The suggestion of your mechanic to use mobil 20W50 shows that this mechanic does not know anything about motor oils, as this oil is not a synthetic oil and does by no means compare in its HTHS value with Valvoline syn power.

So releax and use any oil which clearly states on the bottle that it conforms to ACEA B3/B4 for diesel engines.

P.S. extended (oil) draining period means nothing else than longer oil change interval. But I would recommend not to exceed the Landrover recommended oil change interval of 24.000 km.

Yamaha-Fan

Sorry to drag this back on again but I took my spare litre of mobil1 ESP 5W-30 from my audi diesel before selling it, I am ok to use this as a top-up if required aren't I?

Ta, Joe MY11 Fuji white Td4 150 GS straight up no mixer.

Hi Joe
Yes

Yamaha-Fan

I have bought a liter of Castrol slx longlife III 5w30. Your opinion? Thx

Rs-Turbo, it depends what engine you have. If you drive the i6 (petrol) it is ok.
If you drive the TD4 with DPF (diesel particulate (soot) filter) than no. Due to the DPF this engine requires
a motor oil with very low ash content to avoid "baking" of the DPF, such as Mobil 1 syntron 5W30 low ash or Shell Helix Ultra 5W30 low ash, or Valvoline Syn Power 5W30.

For the TD 4 without DPF any 5W30 motor oil will do as recommended by Landrover, as long as such oil conforms to ACEA B3/B4 or B5.

Yamaha-Fan

yamaha-fan wrote:

Rs-Turbo, it depends what engine you have. If you drive the i6 (petrol) it is ok.
If you drive the TD4 with DPF (diesel particulate (soot) filter) than no. Due to the DPF this engine requires
a motor oil with very low ash content to avoid "baking" of the DPF, such as Mobil 1 syntron 5W30 low ash or Shell Helix Ultra 5W30 low ash, or Valvoline Syn Power 5W30.

For the TD 4 without DPF any 5W30 motor oil will do as recommended by Landrover, as long as such oil conforms to ACEA B3/B4 or B5.

Yamaha-Fan

The manual for the i6 reccomends 0W-30 not 5W-30. Is it ok to use 5W-30 instead, as previously mentioned?

Def, in Greece with the very high temperatures as reported in the summer, I would neither use 0W30 nor 5W30 oils, but 5W40 or 0W40 oils only. The probably best oil for petrol engines is Mobil 1 syntron, which is available in both viscosities as above. Mobil 1 Oil (must be Syntron!) contains excellent additives, has a high HTHS value and is the only motor oil which meets the highest standards of BMW and Mercedes, which other motor oil brands are missing. But this advise is valid for petrol engines only!!!

YF

Sorry if this appears to take us back to the beginning of this discussion string ........ however, when I collected my new FL2 I asked for a can of appropriate top-up oil. (I had already noticed the very specific, but unhelpful, guidance in the vehicle manual i.e. Ford spec) He checked with his service area and produced a 1L can of LR branded oil. On the back label it doesn't mention Ford at all, but does specify ACEA A1-98/B1-98 ILSAC GP2. I queried the lack of Ford rating, but he seemd confident this oil was correct for the Diesel FL2. (The text on the can does mention it was specially developed for the Disco3).

So Yamaha-fan, should I carry on using this top-up oil for now, or dump it now in favour of the Magnatec oil you mention? Life is not a dress rehearsal!

YF sorry if I have come half way through this, Ihave been dropping in and out on this subject matter, but you appear to be our tech-no oil champion, and we all appreciate this, I think I can safely say?

Would it be possible to prepare, in your experience and knowledge, but without any claim against you, a small schedule of engine versus oil type?? any liability from damage caused is down to the owner being too lazy to do there own investigations, as it is a mine field out there. If this task is too complex fair enough but it would save us all trying to work out the ACEA A!-98 from the Ford0W-30 etc etc. Like I say, if its a NO! thats fine, you do a good talk and we/ I would welcome condensed advice as this thread is particularly complex and drawn over many pages.

Thanx in adavnce for any help on this:thumbsup: