Hi all
Trying to remove the brake pedal switch but there's another switch in the way poss for cruise control. Do they both twist anti clockwise to remove?

Thanks

Clockwise, slight turn!

Hello, do you have to take the acceleration pedal off to get access to the brake light switch? Regards,
Germplus.

2008SE
Memory seats
Webasto Fuel Burning heater with smart phone remote start
Premium Surround Sound
Xtron Unit with wireless CarPlay
Dual Battery System
DAB

Hi guys.

Has anyone got any help with this?

Basically my cruise stopped working and I’ve read that changing the brake pedal switch may work. All my headlights work as does the controls on the steering wheel (except the CC).

For the life of me I cannot remove the switch as the heating duct is right in the way. I’ve read that you turn it clockwise but that doesn’t seem right due to the housing. I’ve tried it anticlockwise and still it’s not happening. My fingers and the back of my hand are now very sore!

Can anyone give some advice?

I have tried the disconnecting of the battery to see if that would reset it but it also didn’t work. I’ve also read that it’s worth checking any corroded wires by the passenger side fuse box?

Thanks very much


Kev

Do the brake lights still work? If so, then removing the brake switch isn’t going to fix your cruise control.

What exactly is wrong with the cruise control? If it is completely dead, then it is more likely to be the left switch module on the steering wheel. Scan the car for DTCs - a faulty switch module should report.

Try doing a Hard Reset on the car electronics.
(remove the Battery Terminals, and then when the power to the Electronic Modules is Zero touch the (now dead) connectors together for a short while. Reconnect Battery to car and push Start Button without foot on brake, to allow electronics to ramp-up on full 12v power.)
If still not working, check for OBD Codes and other things not working. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Fatal Apathy wrote:

Do the brake lights still work? If so, then removing the brake switch isn’t going to fix your cruise control.

What exactly is wrong with the cruise control? If it is completely dead, then it is more likely to be the left switch module on the steering wheel. Scan the car for DTCs - a faulty switch module should report.

IanMetro wrote:

Try doing a Hard Reset on the car electronics.
(remove the Battery Terminals, and then when the power to the Electronic Modules is Zero touch the (now dead) connectors together for a short while. Reconnect Battery to car and push Start Button without foot on brake, to allow electronics to ramp-up on full 12v power.)
If still not working, check for OBD Codes and other things not working.

To successfully work on the FL2 you need to be able to read any OBD Error Codes, as most Sensors, Switches and Modules are monitored.
The Cruise Control needs specific inputs to allow it to be selected, for example check that no Terrain Functions are selected.

I take it that you have downloaded and read the relevant pages in the Repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z13lctkhyk5...e5&e=1

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

When the Cruise Control on my car failed, the “-“ button went first, followed eventually by the “+” button eventually. At this point the Cruise Control was effectively dead - and the left switch module was causing a DTC error. I ordered a replacement left switch module from a breaker.

After the replacement switch arrived, but before I got round to fitting it, I read on this forum somewhere that if you worked the switch vigorously it might fix the issue. Tried it and it worked - albeit intermittently .

One day, on a long motorway trip, the Cruise Control packed up when I was not exactly in the mood…. I knew I had a replacement switch at home, so I went at the “+” switch like a demented woodpecker - to the point where something “gave” in the switch. Cruise control has worked fine since with no recurrence of the DTC error. - that was 7 months ago…

Have to agree with the previous posts though - get something that can read OBD codes before spending any time trying to fault find Freelander issues - I guarantee you will recover the initial outlay in saved time…

Quote:

When the Cruise Control on my car failed, the “-“ button went first, followed eventually by the “+” button eventually. At this point the Cruise Control was effectively dead - and the left switch module was causing a DTC error. I ordered a replacement left switch module from a breaker.

After the replacement switch arrived, but before I got round to fitting it, I read on this forum somewhere that if you worked the switch vigorously it might fix the issue. Tried it and it worked - albeit intermittently .

One day, on a long motorway trip, the Cruise Control packed up when I was not exactly in the mood…. I knew I had a replacement switch at home, so I went at the “+” switch like a demented woodpecker - to the point where something “gave” in the switch. Cruise control has worked fine since with no recurrence of the DTC error. - that was 7 months ago…

Have to agree with the previous posts though - get something that can read OBD codes before spending any time trying to fault find Freelander issues - I guarantee you will recover the initial outlay in saved time…

For reading ODB DTCs - there are as many opinions / views as different devices. I use an icarsoft V3.0 for general diagnostics - it does the job, but that is not a recommendation. Search the forum for others views and opinions - other members seem to like the Autel devices as a good price / functionality trade off.

The cheap WiFi dongles coupled with an App on your phone are good for basic diagnosis and monitoring - and cheap & small enough to just live in the glove box in case needed.

Regards the switch module - I ordered the complete panel - it wasn’t expensive. The one I ordered is a different colour to the one fitted to the car - my plan was to strip it and use the internals in the panel currently on the car. The switch pack itself appears to be a simple resistive ladder - details in the wiring diagrams on the forum, so it might be possible to diagnose and repair an individual switch - but fortunately I have not had to go there yet.

There are details of how to strip the steering wheel and its modules on the forum and on this forum . I think once you get the airbag off, if should be pretty simple from there.

Meant to say “details on how to strip the steering wheel are on YouTube and this forum”…

Fatal Apathy wrote:

Regards the switch module - I ordered the complete panel - it wasn’t expensive. The one I ordered is a different colour to the one fitted to the car - my plan was to strip it and use the internals in the panel currently on the car. The switch pack itself appears to be a simple resistive ladder - details in the wiring diagrams on the forum, so it might be possible to diagnose and repair an individual switch - but fortunately I have not had to go there yet.

There are details of how to strip the steering wheel and its modules on the forum and on this forum . I think once you get the airbag off, if should be pretty simple from there.