Changed the fuel filter today and I clearly didn’t bleed it properly. Started up for a few seconds and then died. I have since used a hand pump to bleed through the filter from the tank line (opposite the white connector) and then again on the red filter connector for the fuel return. I’m happy that the filter is now full of fuel but still it doesn’t start. After many attempts I reluctantly disconnected the far injector line next to the fuel pressure sensor and cranked it whilst furiously hand pumping from the injector line and a dribble of diesel eventually came out but now the battery is flat.

Question is, how can I ensure the fuel rail is full before trying my recharged battery tomorrow morning. Is it a case of cracking all the injector lines or something else? Slightly concerned about wrecking the HP pump by running it dry.

Thanks in advance. 2013 SD4.

Cracking the injector lines isn’t recommended with the high pressures that there should be in the fuel rail. It would be a good idea to get the fault codes read to see if you’ve introduced a fault.

Silent singer,

Look at lots of posts on this subject on ‘ Search’ at top of page………….lots of info. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

AFAIK its bad idea to crack open the injector pipes : dangerous (extreme pressues involved), unnecessary for bleeding, and can cause seal leaks.


All I can say is is that in my experience I've had no issues with hand balloon priming - following the JLR manual procedure - pumping fuel through a new empty filter and through the system and back to the fuel tank - you can hear the air in the returning fuel bubbling in the tank.
When all the air is out, the balloon goes very firm and the bubbling in the tank stops. My FL2s have always started after that procedure. Jules

I have searched, and I find a lot posts on fuel filter replacement but none so far where they’ve screwed up the bleed, run it dry and then definitely bled it but it still doesn’t start.

Don’t remove the injector lines. Thanks for that, I’ll leave them firmly tightened!

Are we saying that if I can suck fuel through the return line on the filter (after apparently running the injector lines dry first) that’ll it’ll self bleed eventually?

This happened to me the first time I changed the filter after watching a YouTube video that didn't prime it properly. I can't remember the exact procedure of what I did. The first step was to ensure the fuel filter was full using the priming bulb. Then I had to use a syringe of filtered diesel to fill up any lines coming from the filter. I also did the ignition in ignition off routine and thankfully it started I had a can of easy start on standby (I know I know but I was starting to get worried) but didn't need it.

Using the priming bulb on the return line, how do you know that the fuel rail is full? There looks to be returns from the injectors, the rail and the pump, all going to the same return port on the filter. Pumping the fuel from that filter port, the diesel would chose the path of least resistance, which would logically (in my head) be the pump return, therefore not even making the fuel rail.

I’m now getting plenty of fuel through the tank return line on the filter with a priming bulb (after I ran it dry by starting it) but still saw no diesel coming out of the injector line (which I won’t remove again). How would you prime the rail if you changed the fuel pressure sensor? I guess what I’m trying to say is I’m pretty sure the issue lies on the HP side, not the filter (now it’s primed properly). Will the HP rail bleed itself by cranking or should I be pumping a few litres through tank return port in the hope that some diesel will eventually get pulled through the injector returns and prime the rail?

If the fuel filter is correctly primed then thé High Pressure pump will suck thé fuel up from the filter & pressurize thé common rail & injectors. Engine may need a fair bit of cranking since HP pump displacement is small……especially if it’s a bit air-locked due to running it out of fuel.
If it won’t start I would be inclined to fit the hand primer between the fuel input on filter (white release catch) & filter, pressurize filter & try & start at same time……..should force fuel to HP pump & purge air….
…..& charge common rail /injectors. No need to touch high pressure pipes. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Strange because that’s what I did in the first place and when it became difficult to pump I thought, that’s it. I’ll give it another shot this morning. Thanks.

Edit: misread the post. Didn’t try whilst starting. I’ll try that.

That did it! Couple of 5 second cranks on a fully recharged battery and it started. After taking it for a spirited drive, the initial low fuel pressure fault (P0087) that prompted the filter change in the first place has also disappeared. Just finished putting her all back together and cue the rain. Happy days.

Thanks for all the advice

Well done! Glad it’s working again. A final thought, did you use a decent OEM fuel filter? Cheap knockoff copies miss out an internal valve that sends the correct temperature fuel to the injectors and filters missing the valve often give problems later on.

Bosch filter. Should be ok.

As a few others do,i fill the filter with diesel before fitting,as we do on any diesel vehicle,never had any problem.

Silent singer wrote:

Bosch filter. Should be ok.

You’ve made the newby mistake of thinking the pump in the tank is a pressure pump. It isn’t. All that it does is lift fuel from one side of the tank, over the transmission tunnel to the swirl pot at the bottom of the fuel line to the filter. The lift pump is part of the high pressure pump on the end of the camshaft.