Had litle Time to test few relays, 3rd of that row did throw me led light to temp, and activaded Central locks to unlock and emergency lights.


But thats not what i was searching.

I need to try that second row on Grays and see what they do each by each when i plug them off.

If i cant find The cause, next Will Be those blackones.

Could here somebody smarter to look diagrams what relays are connected to ECM, so it could Be narrowed

A bit fuzzy but it easier to see in the free down loadable REPAIR MANUAL & WIRING DIAGRAMS, plus there will be a good explanation in the download.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

Click image to enlarge

narrowed problem to Relay number 49

installed new relay and lets see what happens does it work, because everytime wigglin relay it starts to work...

but incase it does not solve the problem, i need to go deeper to that relay. What is behind that relay is Fuses, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12,14. They all seems to be Engine management fuses.

i tryed to look from electrical diagrams these fuses, but i cant find where they go, there is mention sheet 4 and so on but i dont understand where to follow?


i think if i start pulling each fuse one by one they will do same symptons, not sure. but if not it will give litle more help to trace what fuse makes engine temp light to red ( max ) and power from ECM

F4 = No 6 - 60A / glowplugs
F16 = No 8 - 60A / PTC Heater
F17 = No 9 - 60A / Passenger compartment fusebox suply
F19 = No 11 - 60A / Luggage compartment fusebox suply
F24 = No 12 - 30A / Headlamp washer
F25 = No 14 - 30A / ABS

This gives conclusion to look atleast to No 9 and possibly to No14?



link to orginal photo
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/glo...l2.370560/

The Wiring Diagrams are arranged in sets by function. i.e. 3/4 and its is this that it referred to.

Follow the (coloured and lettered) wire off the sheet and onto the numbered sheet, in that set, to the same coloured and lettered wire on that sheet.

From your description you have a corroded or damaged pin or socket.

You need to logically follow the circuit and not just guess by description names

LOOK at how RPA went about solving his wiring/relay problem ---

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40192.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

i can agree to your comment corroded or damaged pin or socket.
im not good at electrics...

First thought i repaired it whit new relay, until it started to play again. then i needed just little presss it down and it worked again, until playing starts again.

now i leaved power on dash, then i wiggled and pressed whole fuse box then i heard electricity ZZZZ sound, quit loud. and it came online again.

Should i try to strip fusebox, and have little look for it, or swap to new used one, never done such thing, is it big job?

maybe somebody has some tips for this project?

Edit: is there differences between 2007 - 2010 manual and automatic cars battery Junction box ( engine fusebox )? If i buy so i could investigate litle.