@p_gill, out of curiosity, was your overdrive pulley that you replaced on the LR2 with the simpler version fubar or damaged? or was is just pro active? And, yeah, the Pro-Parts Sweden price is way great compared to the Volvo part which is twice the cost of the LR replacement part, crazy.

Motion,

Get the INA part it is the same as what Volvo or Land Rover will sell you except it is significantly cheaper.

The Pro Part Sweden became intermittent, sometime it would ratchet and sometimes it was locked up solid.

When I removed it I was eventually able to get it to ratchet but it isn't smooth like it was when it was new.

By comparison I changed the overdrive pulley on my Audi 2.0T because the belt was moving too much. The Root cause was actually the tensioner and not the pulley. The Pulley that I removed had done over 50,000 miles and it is still very smooth in its operation. That was an INA overdrive pulley.

I took a chance on Pro Parts Sweden and it didn't work out.

Having said that I'm not paying Volvo $300 for a $100 part. (or Land Rover for what its worth)

The Pro Parts Pulley is about $50 and the INA is about $100 and I am happy to pay for the upgrade.

Take care

Paul

PS the Pro Part Pulley on the LR2 gets to keep its job until it fails and then it is getting fired.

Last edited by p_gill on 10th Jul 2022 6:14 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Motion,

I didn't realize how easy it is to check the function of the overdrive pulley on the LR2 until after I replaced my first one .

Now I know with the engine off that the belt can be easily moved at the AC compressor in one direction and not in the opposite direction.
I wasn't aware of this before I replaced the pulley in my LR2.
By comparison the belt in my Audi doesn't work this way and checking the function of that pulley is difficult, which is also true for the LR2 alternator but for different reasons.

Here is the history (or my best recollection of it)

1. At about 10 years 100,000 miles I decided it was time to replace the belt tensioner, idler pulley and overdrive pulley on my LR2. (~Summer of 2018) I decide to take a risk with the Pro Parts Sweden Pulley

2. I like the 3.2 so much that I bought a S80 with the same 3.2 for my son to drive (end of 2018)

3. I also replaced the pulley on my Son's 3.2 with the Pro Parts Sweden pulley (~mid 2019)

4. Now I routinely check the pulleys to see how long they will last and the pulley in the S80 seized up (~2022)

5. I replaced the pulley in the S80 with a INA OEM pulley

Some background

When I removed the pulley from the LR2 at ~ 10 years it was frozen solid. (I couldn't get it to freewheel at all...nothing).
Since I replaced the pulley earlier than recommended and it failed prior to to the recommended replacement interval I decided that a simpler part may be the better choice.
Even if it has to be replaced more often.
I no longer feel that way.

The pulley that I removed from the Volvo at 9 years was also frozen solid. (two failures for this part prior to the recommended replacement interval, and when I bought this car used I knew the pulley had failed, so don't point to my driving style for the early demise of this component)

I don't know what the service interval should be but I suspect that 10 years is too long.


Note: the test to determine if the pulley is working is so quick (3 minutes including opening and closing the bonnet) I am not changing the pulley and belt until it fails or 15 years whichever comes first.

Good luck

Paul

@p_gill,

Thank you for the great info

I also am a big fan of the si6 and will follow your advice.

Hi @p_gill,

the de-coupler tool for the alt pulley, what is the size and model you got?

Click image to enlarge

I bought the Metal Nerds MN3400

but it is a little short so to remove the pulley I use my air gun and I spun up the alternator and then I reversed the gun and and removed the pulley. I can't remember if I went from clockwise to counterclockwise or the opposite but I tried both and one of them worked.

By doing it this way I did not need the T50 (which is a bit short) it is possible that I was suppose to use the Triple Square instead of the Torx. I gave up and use the air tools.


I would definitely get a kit the a T50 and a M10 triple square (which is what the MN3400 has)


Note: they made it short so that it can be used without removing the alternator (but that is pointless for the LR2 3.2)


Good luck

Paul

@p_gill, much appreciated!

To update, the serpentine belt job was a *****! Even with help and it was likely done by the previous owner would be my guess. Good news, it's done belt, tensioner, and the two pulleys!
To those that have gone before!
Here's the kit I bought from Amazon as the MetalNerds Kit is unavailable here, Canada, and the shipping is now insane. It worked a treat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08X6VFC7...&psc=1

Well done MotionInc! And also to Paul. Always interesting reading your threads on our wonderful FL2 variants.

Tim Tim

Freelander 2 HSE i6 Stornoway Grey with Alpaca & Tundra interior
Driven many miles in:
2 FL2s
1 Range Rover P38
4 Range Rover Classics
Many military LWB & 1/2 ton Lightweight Series IIA & III

Freel2 3.2 owners,

I thought you might find this interesting.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=102177

Thanks

Paul

Thanks for below list provided, I have LR2 2008 HSE i6 running 256000 kms now and seems those problem list is coming to me

p_gill wrote:

I just bought my second 3.2 and I am adding 12 & I to the list

AWD marked with AWD - FWD 3.2's can ignore AWD items

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler -
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) – I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
7. Spark Plugs - replaced mine twice (every 50,000 miles, Volvo recommends 75,000 miles)
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
9. Battery – every 4 to 8 years (Low voltage while starting causes electrical gremlins on LR2)
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump (only if it leaks)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
12. AWD Replace CV joint grease in drive shaft joint near catalytic converter
13. Leak detection pump filter clean or replace every 5 years (note: not all markets have a leak detection pump) to prevent code P2402

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
C) PCV valve – replaced mine at 113,000 miles
D) Engine mounts
E) AC Compressor or clutch pack - (Installed a new compressor and clutch on the S80)
F) Ignition coils (Some evidence that a failed Thermostat leads to overheating and premature Coil failure)
G) Radiator Fan
H) Wheel Bearings
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
J) Radiator
K) Front Struts
L) Rear Shocks

Less common repairs
I. Starter motor - typically fails at 100,000 miles or 10 years
II. Blower Resistor
III. Front Brake calipers refurbished
IV. Loose bolt on alternator pulley
V. Overdrive clutch pulley Alternator
VI. Overdrive clutch pulley READ drive (Serpentine Belt)
VII. BLUETOOTH phone module (bypass with a fiberoptic loop if you don't use it)
VIII. Purge Valve for Fuel Vapor Recovery

2008 LR2 3.2 items completed

Maintenance 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,11
Typical repairs A, B, C, D, E, G, I, K
Less Common Repairs I,III,V,VI,VII,VIII

2010 S80 3.2 items completed

Maintenance 1,2,3,5,6,7,10
Typical repairs A, B, C, D, E, G, H, I, J, K, L
Less Common Repairs - III, VI

p_gill wrote:

Motion,

I didn't realize how easy it is to check the function of the overdrive pulley on the LR2 until after I replaced my first one .

Now I know with the engine off that the belt can be easily moved at the AC compressor in one direction and not in the opposite direction.
I wasn't aware of this before I replaced the pulley in my LR2.

Paul

Same story here, after 10 years++ owning LR2 and replace this pulley aux drive, only I understand that the pully aux drive was already damaged since many years . With new pulley installed, when engine off, I can easily and freely rotate the whole chain of pulley aux drive-ac compressor, tensioner, idler pully, water pump-steering pump at one direction. with old pully aux drive, it's not possible