Jonms - Providing your car has projector lenses then it will get through the MOT ok. I and others havent had a problem. Conversely, if you have reflector lenses then it will fail the MOT. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

I have contacted the seller by phone seems a really good sound seller
We went through some things to test and he came to the conclusion the bulbs themselves are at fault possibly a bad batch for both to be faulty he doesn't do many HB3 kits and thinks they may have sat on the shelf quite a while
He will send some more bulbs that will be tested before he posts them

tenet wrote:

Jonms - Providing your car has projector lenses then it will get through the MOT ok. I and others havent had a problem. Conversely, if you have reflector lenses then it will fail the MOT.

@JonMs

"They are projectors, but not self-levelling."

Ditto - mine passed the MOT without any questions.
Just make sure they are adjusted probably before the MOT. I had to very slightly lower my beam to match the original HB3 beam pattern - easy to do. Jules

New bulbs here and all fitted
It's a great improvement for sure need to get some night driving and bad weather to see how much better they are but first impressions are good

You will not be disappointed Pinhead. As I said way up thread its the best mod for circa £50 you can do. The halogen hb3 are a safety hazard in my opinion. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

Thanks for the xenon headlight upgrade info guys. much appreciated.
I ordered and fitted the HIDS4U HB3 Stealth-X 55W Xenon HID Conversion Kit recently. Big improvement over the halogen bulbs. Link to the one I went for it is at the bottom of this post.

Info for anyone else who might be interested below. I'll second the other guys in recommending this, big improvement over halogen. (My lights use the same bulb for dipped & full beam with a mechanical screen that pops up to block the upper beam when dipped. It seems this varies between Freelander 2 models)

Autobulbs Direct only had the 55W stealth-x version (£90) in stock otherwise I may have gone for the 35W Stealth-X (&70). However it doesn't seem to be too bright to be a problem for other motorists so happy with the choice. Went for 5500K colour which was recommended.
Installation - There are 3 boxes on the power supply line (Decoder, Ballast & Ignitor) which all fitted inside the headllight unit. The ballast unit is the largest and heaviest so I stuck it to the base of the light unit using a large double sided sticky pad that was supplied with the kit. I attached the ignitor unit to an existing cable hook on the inside of the light unit with a lenghth of velcro tape as otherwise it would move around inside. The 'decoder' unit is held in place well enough with the thick cable connecting it to the 'ballast' unit.
Photos attached.

I saw they also have an LED option which I discussed with the supplier. However the cooling fins on the back of the LED bulb protrude too far out to allow the plastic light unit cover to close (based on the measurements they gave me over the phone) so the decision was removed.

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/hb3-hids...n-kit.html

Photos:
Before installation


Ballast stuck to bottom inside of light unit





Fitted view (left and right units)

Click image to enlarge

Well... I'm sure glad I stuck it out and read all 20 pages of this topic! Very informative.

My first post BTW, hello all! Some very knowledgeable people on here by far, great to read some of the topics ever since acquiring my very first 2010 FL2 SD4 HSE a few months ago. I had owned a hybrid Tucson for the past three years and thoroughly enjoyed it but now WFH, 8k on the clock at the three year PCP hand back so I flogged it to Motorway and with the comfy residual - bought the FL2 as a runabout that I can have some fun with.

Anyway, back to the headlights. I have the factory HID units fitted with the D1S for dipped and H7 for mains (confirmed by no beam adjust scroller on the light switch panel and auto levelling is inherent to the HIS assembly). Although everyone says the HIDs are the poodles privates I really do not get much in the way of light from mine with a very hard, straight line cutoff ahead of me. Replaced the lamps due to one failing and have had both headlight assemblies out to inspect visually, the reflector for the HIDs that mounts to the rear of the projector part looks to be affected by heat and the silvering has gone a little streaky. I'm tempted to strip the HID assembly down this weekend and see if the inner reflector is damaged. The driver's side headlight, the frame within appears to be broken and has some movement so this will be a good opportunity to get it fixed up.

Does anyone know where I can order new replacement HID reflectors on their own?

Finally I cannot seem to get a definitive answer about the tourist lever (that sets the beam profile of the dipped beams for UK/EU driving). Should it be up or down for the UK? All references say it should be 'set appropriately for the market the vehicle was sold into' but that's not much use to me at this stage!

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm now off to post about how to do a cheap Bluetooth audio upgrade to these models (I'm an audio electronics guy)

I have a simple question:
What is + and - on the original wires for the headlamps - main/dipped and separate main - as they are not marked?

I am about to install some Philips Ultinon LED's and they require +and - to be correct. Clearly marked on the connector on the LED, but not so on the car.

Looking at the combined main/dipped connector (not the one I am changing to LED), there are 3 wires. 2 together and one separate. The 2 together are downwards, and the 1 is on top, separate.
I would logically think that since this is a dual bulb, the 2 wires together must be + and the 1 separate wire above must be -.
Following that, I would guess, that on the separate main beam light, again the lower would be + and the one on top should be -.

Would that assumption be correct?


Any advice is appreciated, so I go out later tonight and actually see something while driving.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Edit: Right, so following that, I inserted one headlight, switched on and --- no light. Neither on the combined light, nor the separate main beam.
a resistor is needed? If that is the case with modern LED's then it's pure crap, as I waste the same watts.

Another thought is maybe the Land Rover Freelander 2 is on Canbus? In which case I need adaptors?
I have absolutely no idea, and don't know where to look if the car is built like that.
Freelander 2 SE i6 from 2006, 2007 model.

I bought a set of Philips Ultinon Pro 3022. That specific LED is supposed to have built in Canbus controller (cheater).

Any advice on this as well is much appreciated.

LED’s are polarity sensitive. Reverse the connections.

Paul_B wrote:

Well... I'm sure glad I stuck it out and read all 20 pages of this topic! Very informative.

My first post BTW, hello all! Some very knowledgeable people on here by far, great to read some of the topics ever since acquiring my very first 2010 FL2 SD4 HSE a few months ago. I had owned a hybrid Tucson for the past three years and thoroughly enjoyed it but now WFH, 8k on the clock at the three year PCP hand back so I flogged it to Motorway and with the comfy residual - bought the FL2 as a runabout that I can have some fun with.

Anyway, back to the headlights. I have the factory HID units fitted with the D1S for dipped and H7 for mains (confirmed by no beam adjust scroller on the light switch panel and auto levelling is inherent to the HIS assembly). Although everyone says the HIDs are the poodles privates I really do not get much in the way of light from mine with a very hard, straight line cutoff ahead of me. Replaced the lamps due to one failing and have had both headlight assemblies out to inspect visually, the reflector for the HIDs that mounts to the rear of the projector part looks to be affected by heat and the silvering has gone a little streaky. I'm tempted to strip the HID assembly down this weekend and see if the inner reflector is damaged. The driver's side headlight, the frame within appears to be broken and has some movement so this will be a good opportunity to get it fixed up.

Does anyone know where I can order new replacement HID reflectors on their own?

Finally I cannot seem to get a definitive answer about the tourist lever (that sets the beam profile of the dipped beams for UK/EU driving). Should it be up or down for the UK? All references say it should be 'set appropriately for the market the vehicle was sold into' but that's not much use to me at this stage!

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm now off to post about how to do a cheap Bluetooth audio upgrade to these models (I'm an audio electronics guy)

BossBob wrote:

LED’s are polarity sensitive. Reverse the connections.

BossBob wrote:

LED’s are polarity sensitive. Reverse the connections.

BossBob wrote:

LED’s are polarity sensitive. Reverse the connections.

So if you can fit a HID Conversion kit, can you fit the Xenon parts from the earlier pre-2013 headlights to the 2013 halogen lights considering they both have a projector lens ?
You can all laugh if I'm being stupid - I don't mind