Well just coming up for MOT time and i had the Freelander booked in to have rear wheel bearings done as one side was whiring like mad, so had both sides done. New bearings new sensor and a new battery just shy of £700 which wasnt oo bad i thought.

garage pointed out a few advisories before the MOT , the rear sill was a bit crusty off side rear tyre worn on the inside , rear brake dust shield missing and a shocker. I had new shockers fitted in 3 years ago and they havent done that many miles.

Anyway back tot matter in hand the sill repair, not many youtube videos out there apart form one but not many pictures or videos on how the repair was done so i thought i do some pictures of mine.
Before anybody says anything this was kinda a rush job to get it ready for the MOT which is Monday 28th October

So to get the sill cover off there are plastic screw clips that can be prized out all in one using a thin bladed screwdriver.
Once they are out you have to pull from the top of the sill cover to pop the small clips off the ball type clip holders that are held into the main sill. You will have to pull the top of the sill cover gently where the cover goes into the front wing but they do come off. Pull the cover towards the back of the vehicle and you will be greeted with this

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So i ordered a repair panel £56 and i set about marking off roughly what i didn't need. I didn't want to spoil the profile of the whole wheelarch

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Once thatw as done i was able to marry the new panel up and mark around where i needed to cut the old rusty section out, excuse the foot whilst i took a picture

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Once everything lined up to be welded in i put some weldable primer on the inside of the repair panel

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Like i said this was a rush job trying to get it done before the MOT and trying to work before it gets too dark but wanted it to look neat enough

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Good work, thanks for the guide. Hopefully mine, 2014, isn't at that stage but I could do with getting it well cleaned and protected. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

well i believe that and the subframes are the weak points on these

I put etch primer followed by high build primer and some single pack lacquer

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After cleaning the rest of the Sill i removed the rubber plugs along the rest of the sill, then with my underseal pressure pot sprayed gallons of clear waxoyl inside before cleaning up the plastic cover and putting it back on.

Polished it up ready for tomorrow for her MOT

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Looks good. Hope the MOT goes well!

A very nice job, well done.

^^^ what he said!

The world awaits! Did it pass? The patch should be Argon arc Brazed, as its high strength alloy steel, to stop future cracking. Its in the repair manual. My 2009 car needs this done next year, and I was hoping the normal Brillo Pads and P38 will still be OK.

Yes she passed with two advisories, one was a small oil leak and subframe corroded but not effecting the structure

Oil leak was mentioned two years ago, on MOT, Tester said it was a gearbox seal and I struggled to find the correct seal but got it, . I checked the levels and they were OK

I personally think it's the PCV, it's coming from the left side of the engine, I did post it on here two years ago.

Subframe I can do I have different types of rust preventative I'll do that as a seperatd post

Jagracer wrote:

The world awaits! Did it pass? The patch should be Argon arc Brazed, as its high strength alloy steel, to stop future cracking. Its in the repair manual. My 2009 car needs this done next year, and I was hoping the normal Brillo Pads and P38 will still be OK.

Lol is it high grade brillo pad ? If so you should be OK