The Good:

Hi all,

Been having small puddle under our i6, so drove on to a pit and took the bottom shield off.
Looking at the right side, from the front, there's a fat vertical coolant hose that seems to go from the water pump inlet, and then a Y in the top, down to the horizontal coolant tube in front of the motor.

This leaking.
In fact when I touched it, it split completely over a 10 cm long crack.

So, I loosened the clip at the bottom, and took the lower end off.
The top end with the plastic Y have some funny connections I've not seen before, as I am new to Land Rover.
Anyway, how to take those off ?

The offending part is LR005564, and there it's easy to see.

It is very cramped to say the least, so I cannot get a real hand torque around the plastic ends, to see if they can move.
Is it a twist and click off, or maybe a press in on a few tabs and then twist, or something else?

Or is it needed to take the front bumper off, and everything else at the front, and then take the radiator package off? That would mean draining the aircon and what not?

All advice most appreciated.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Last edited by Redfox on 19th Oct 2024 9:43 pm. Edited 5 times in total

The Bad:

I noticed in the thermostat thread, that the grey ring have to be twisted, but how on Earth do you get to it?
Taking the inlet manifold off, ? Or is that not needed.

Also, The spring clip on the black end of the Y. I don't understand what to do with it?
And how to reach it?

Kind regards,
Redfox

Last edited by Redfox on 19th Oct 2024 9:44 pm. Edited 3 times in total

And the Ugly:

Right, so it came off in the end.

Here is how:

1/ Take off the battery poles.

2/ Take off left hand head light for extra support of sticking an arm through, if need be.

3/ Underneath the car, take off the front tow eye cover and put aside.

4/ The next bigger black plastic cover that surrounds the front tow eye, is secured with 4 small bolts on top of it. Remove them and tilt the big black plastic cover a bit forward/upward to gain extra room.

5/ Sitting under the car in the front, looking towards the back of the car, look up and there's a horizontal coolant tube along the lower front edge of the engine. On it's right end, seen from the front, is the offending hose that can or will leak/split. Part no. LR005564.

6/ That lower end of the hose are connected with a normal hose clip (thank you!). Loosen that and drain into a bucket, apprx. 3 - 5 Liter of coolant. Mine drained exactly 5 Liter.

7/ Follow the hose upwards, and it ends in a plastic Y. On it's left side it goes into a fitting on the engine (coolant pump?). It's secured with a round light grey plastic ring. Spray a bit of wd40 or teflon triflow on to that and let it sit. In theory, it should be just turned a bit and pulled off, but it may not, so:

8/ On the right hand of the Y, is a black plastic fitting. It is secured with a thin metal wire clamp a bit like a Z. This is removed coming down from up top, so use a small screwdriver or your finger and lift up that thin metal Z clamp. There is a small raised part on the middle of the top of said metal clip, that makes it real easy. A finger will do to lift it. Then you can in theory pull the next black hose on the right, to the ... right, and separate the two. It can be stuck though. And in that case, remove the Z clamp by lifting more and twist it a bit, so it comes off. Hold on, as it may fly.

9/ Remove air filter box cover and put aside. Remember to first unplug the electrical connector of that cover.

10/ Underneath the car, that big black plastic intake tubing (from the airbox), leads down and into the rear of the intake manifold, that starts with the throttle valve. There is a big metal clamp like the one between the airbox and the top of that same intake hose. Use a cable driven clamping tool (dead cheap) to loosen by clamping it tight, then wiggle the whole intake hose a bit and it comes loose of comes off. Remove it upwards and put aside.

11/ Now you have a bit of access to the Y connectors - the grey ring type one and the black with the metal Z clip one.

12/ Do the black plastic with the metal clip first. You'll see why in a moment. Start with taking a small flat screwdriver if the hoses cannot come apart, and insert it from above where the two plastic edges meet: the male and the female parts. Carefully, without force, wiggle it in a bit and turn it ever so slightly, so that the two hoses begin to come apart. Then go to a little bit bigger flat blade screwdriver and repeat. Then a bigger one. You will now have aprx. a 3mm gap, but it may still be stuck. In that case:

13/ Spray a bit of wd40 or teflon triflow into the separation between the two - that is the gap you have managed to make. Let it work a minute. Then wiggle the hose of the right hand side around and it may come apart. If not:

14/ Spray a bit more and wiggle more. It will separate.

15/ With the bottom connection and the top right side connection now undone, the thin grey plastic ring on the last connector, can be attacked, by trying to grap the ring with fingers or a polygrip of some sort, but usually there is not enough room, so:

16/ Because you have first undone the bottom connection and then the right side top black connection, you can now simply hold the hose firmly and turn it clockwise (seen from the front of the car). Then back and forth a few times. This will loosen the grey plastic ring, and by turning it a bit more clockwise, it reaches a position, where you can easily pull the whole hose off. Reinstallation is the exact same procedure, just reversed.

17/ Job done. Have a cup of tea and enjoy the Land Rover warehouse re-organising.

18/ When you have new parts, give them a bit of silicone grease on all the plastic fittings, so they wont get stuck so easily.

19/ refill the coolant and take a trip, enjoying your Land Rover Freelander 2 i6 3,2Liter petrol, because it's a pretty capable car.

This is actually an easy to do way, of removing that hose, if it's stuck. No brute force nor big hammers are needed.
Note: Looking at the grey plastic ring on the top left side of that hose, it has two protruding thin grey "wings". Do NOT grab those, they will break. THey are there to lock it, not for installation/removal. Only use the ring as means of removal and installation. But the method I described is by far the easier.

Cheers,
Redfox

Edit: spelling errors and further text applied for clarification.

Last edited by Redfox on 25th Nov 2024 10:15 pm. Edited 6 times in total

Appreciate the update!

Thanks MotionInc.

Here's the offending old coolant hose LR005564, and when I came home from the workshop (I do stuff myself, just borrowed some space), I went into the basement and looked at my LR stash, and funnily enough, I had bought the right hose this Summer.
Hmm... So on with the project tomorrow. We'll see.

Looking at the original 18 year old LR005564 coolant hose, it is clear, that the defect developed on the top side of the bottom end. It has swollen, delaminated and became so big, that it rubbed against the lowest part of the engine block, which ultimately sped up the process of leaking.
Anyway, I think it's a pretty well behaving car, not to do this under full load on the freeway, but calmly, orderly and silently and noticeable at home, right after a fast drive.

Inside the old hose is a long metal spring coil and a plastic piece. I take it, it is a one way valve built into it?

I strongly advice owners of i6 to go change their coolant every 2'nd year, 3'rd year at the most, and feel their way on those hoses.

Next up is the thermostat housing and one of those hoses.

Question: which this hose was it, leading to the coolant tank, that could also leak? Is it LR000946?

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Pic. of LR005564 old and new and the swollen part (I cut it in two).






Last edited by Redfox on 25th Nov 2024 10:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I went through the same - This guide would have been very handy! '07 i6 Petrol XS

The Freelander - Keeping my RS5 from using all the fuel in the Northern Hemisphere