Morning all,

I wonder if anyone can give me any ideas to check on the issue I have,

I am the new owner of a 2010 FR2 GS TD4 E

A few days ago I decided to fit full new rear brakes after having virtually no handbrake and the rear discs/pads looking worn out.

I stripped the rear brakes, lubricating everything, O/S rear caliper top slider pin was seized.

On both sides, the handbrake shoes were showing delamination and the N/S was missing about 2 inch of friction material.

cleaned the adjusters and handbrake mechanism, new shoes fitted, new discs fitted and adjusted them up.

Cleaned and lubricated slider pins, new pads in and calipers back on, checked pads all moved ok.

Drove home, 3 miles, rear discs getting hot.

Hot on both the centre of the disc (handbrake) and were the pads touch.

I re-adjusted the hand brake, until the centres are now not hot, but the rest of the discs are getting hot (outer were the pads touch).

So after thinking the old calipers are sticking after pushing them back in with fitting the new pads, I've fitted a new caliper to the N/S (doing the O/S today) but the N/S with the new caliper is still getting hot.
I've checked the rubber hoses and they look in good condition, everything is lubricated and moving.
All rear brakes are new.

I'm considering putting the old pads back in to see if that does anything.

Any ideas, are greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you've fitted the correct parts?
Not put Electric Handbrake parts on there by mistake.

I purchasd the Discs, the shoes and the calipers, all bought using my reg number as a guide.

The only thing I didn't buy (came with the car) were the rear pads, but they look identical to the ones that came off.

Have you made sure the handbrake shoes are centred? Try gently applying the handbrake while driving (not fast) a few times then readjusting the clearance so that the handbrake shoes are not rubbing when you spin the wheels.

I had a simillar problem with my MY2011 XS last month. New rear pads fitted - OS rear disc overheating. Everything seemed free when reassembled with the car still on the axle stands - however, after a short run the inner pad on the OS rear wheel was not releasing. Turned out to be the calliper guide bar - which despite being removed & cleaned up on the workshop bench, was not allowing the pad to move freely. I replaced the guide with this:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226374743529?_s...R-DtsJvTZA

The corrosion on the old caliper guide bar had distorted the stainless steel pad guides - so changed those too. Problem solved.

I kept the old rusted caliper guide, gave it a much more brutal cleaning on the bench and fitted it to the nearside hub a week later. All fine since.

Sticking piston? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Fatal Apathy wrote:

I had a simillar problem with my MY2011 XS last month. New rear pads fitted - OS rear disc overheating. Everything seemed free when reassembled with the car still on the axle stands - however, after a short run the inner pad on the OS rear wheel was not releasing. Turned out to be the calliper guide bar - which despite being removed & cleaned up on the workshop bench, was not allowing the pad to move freely. I replaced the guide with this:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226374743529?_s...R-DtsJvTZA

The corrosion on the old caliper guide bar had distorted the stainless steel pad guides - so changed those too. Problem solved.

I kept the old rusted caliper guide, gave it a much more brutal cleaning on the bench and fitted it to the nearside hub a week later. All fine since.