Hi everyone . I think we have had a whole 8 months since our Freelander 2 cried out for some attention which is pretty good for us . This thread is not so much a call for help, but more a log on what's happening...at the moment .

Before we went away for a weekend of offroading, I did a scan for any fault codes on the ECU with my eBay special OBD2 bluetooth plug using the Torque app. Normally it comes back as 0 codes, but this time it had a surprise in store for me. It brought back this little list of codes:



Seeing as the car has had a lot of very short stop/start cycles from taking the car on and off the drive, I put it down to a drained battery and after a decent drive, all will be fine. The app also told me that when they are grey, they are unconfirmed and if after X amount of miles the fault doesn't occur, they will be erased from the ECU.

While we were away offroading, we had a great time. But we did notice the car being very lethargic to start compared to what we are used to. We just put that down to trundling around in first gear for large amounts of time and the car not having a proper run. Maybe also mixed in with a build up of heat because cool air isn't rushing through the engine bay.

We returned home and the next day we used the car for doing the shopping. Before we did, I once again run a scan and this was the result:



I knew immediately that we were a stone's throw away from limp mode cutting in. The car started and run fine until we got to the shop and as we were parking, reduced engine performance is displayed in the MFD. We returned from shopping, started the car to be greeted with an engine management light and the reduced engine performance message. We drove back and everything was fine apart from a slightly more noticeable wastegate sound. Every now and then it would drop into limp mode but soon clear once again.

We pulled into a layby, plugged in my OBD2 adaptor and run a scan for the third time and this was the result:



What was really odd though was Alana stalled the car and when it restarted itself, it barely had enough power to turn the starter motor and only just got running again. Once we returned home, I popped the bonnet and it felt awfully hot under there. The coolant temp was showing 94 degrees C on the drive back if that's normal or not? I also got Alana to turn off the engine and start it again. While it didn't struggle to start, it certainly sounded lethargic to start once again.

From searching on this forum and talking to people, the thought process is the turbo actuator is faulty. Although my gut is telling me it could either be a battery problem as the codes are so varied and they are all sensors, or, it's battery and turbo actuator at the same time!

We have gone down the the actuator route first and have managed to removed the one on the car. I know in a perfect world I should get ours sent off to be recon'ed but we need the car working for this weekend so have brought a replacement. I emailed Turbo Vanes with my reg and VIN and they pointed me to this one which I have ordered: https://www.turbovanes.com/turbo-electroni...-468-p.asp

Apon taking ours off of the car, I have noticed these codes:

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Just a quick update on this. Got the "new" turbo actuator through today and got it straight on the car. Cleared the fault codes, started it up and all is well. Taken it for a drive and no more intermittent limp mode or engine management light at the moment. I was hoping to feel a bit more power from freeing up the arm that connects to the actuator but alas not. But that could be down to now having a mismatched actuator to turbo. But I've been told that this can be fixed with one of those posh computers that plugs into the car.

As for the lazy starting. All was well to start with but I did notice the start/stop wasn't start stopping. Then after a bit of a drive, pulled over, turned the car off, and low and behold, it struggled to start. So I nipped off to collect the battery that we had ordered and got that onto the car. The starting still doesn't seem back to how it was, but then again, I don't know how charged batteries come when you buy them and if the car realises it even has a new battery on it yet. Although the start/stop is back to doing starting and stopping.

Still got these greyed out codes:



But while they are not affecting the car we will carry on until they either disappear or become an actual problem.
Hopefully we can get someone who knows what they are doing to take a look at our charging system to see if the alternator is firing on all electrons.

But the end result is, the car is working once again!  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Your Turbo 'Restricted Performance' issue does match my experience of a sticking actuator/turbo vanes.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39340.html?highlight=turbo

As for 'Phantom Faults' and absent 'Stop/Start', I would try a good long term Battery Charge and/or if the Battery is much over a couple of years old - get a new one (no matter what any quick Garage Test says. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Batteries don’t always arrive fully charged and your long run would have to be very long. My Ctek charger puts out over 14v for hours (normally overnight) before it drops down to the maintenance charging level so get it plugged in. If you want to see what is going on with your charging circuit and battery state have a look at the Bluetooth battery monitors that are available. Connect to the +ve and -ve terminals and view what is going on via an app on your phone, though I’m surprised TORQUE doesn’t show the information.

IanMetro: I did find your thread and did have a good long read of it which shoved me towards a new actuator even though my gut was telling me otherwise. So thanks for posting that thread. As my second follow up post says, I have since put a new battery on the car to be on the safe side.

BossBob: We have a bit of a journey ahead of us on Friday and again coming back on Sunday. So hopefully that will go someway to boosting the new batteries capacity. I guess it also comes down to how quickly the BMS on our car "learns" the new capacity of the battery too. Torque does have the following option which I had running during my drive when I had the new battery fitted:



It was reading 14.4v when the engine was running and the picture is after I turned the engine off. I'll have another measure once we have done our drive on Friday.

To everyone: BossBob has recommended to me a Bluetooth battery monitor. Anyone out there have one that they use and would recommend it? I prefer to not buy just any old random one and find out that it drains the battery or has some kind of subscription fee tied to the app that needs to be used. Thanks.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

That's a good point that you mention about the BMS having to re-learn the capacity of a new battery.
I believe the registers can be reset, but like most other monitored systems on the FL2, I believe that new values will be continually updated as you drive around.

Although I have no design specs of the FL2, I think that some systems do still report faults for a while after they are cured, and think that the famous 'battery leads off and then shorted' reset may be the answer to these, although I have found that the 'double locking' and walk around the supermarket 'method' has cured intermittent faults in the past.

As far as monitoring the battery goes, I just have a cheap digital readout (with USB outputs) that plugs into my cigar lighter sockets, it give me quick reassurance that the Battery/Alternator are working OK. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The devices I fitted to our cars are similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCELI-Bluetooth-...amp;sr=8-6
You connect the relevant leads to the +ve and -ve battery terminals and install an app on your phone and connect to the device using Bluetooth.
The following image shows a day in June where the CTek was connected up and you can clearly see the charge pattern. The device stores the data and you can go back months if you want to.

IanMetro: It's times like these that I am so happy to own a Freelander 2 and not a posh Mercedes, BMW or the likes that you probably need to go to the garage and pay a fortune for them to replace the battery and then tell the car. Thanks for your tip about double locking the car. I've done that and will leave it overnight to see if that has any outcome on the phantom errors that I have.

BossBob: Thanks to the link to that. I shall take a look into it and may purchase one.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

it does sound like a battery problem and these cars do like a good battery also have you got the extra earth strap on yours ? is it the original starter motor ? it does seem strange that the Actuator failed at the same time it could probably do with an air path calibration to let the ecu relearn values also have you checked the throttle body for stripped gears sorry to bombard you with so many questions but these are things I would be looking at

Hi Boxa, thanks for your suggestions . With it being a TD4.e it come factory fitted with the 2nd earth strap which was nice to see and saved me having to do that modification. As far as I'm aware it's still on it's original starter motor as we haven't changed it in our ownership. So it's something that is on my mind if a new battery doesn't sort it and if the alternator is actually ok. Although I don't hear of many people saying about changing their starter motor so I'm interested how long starter motors last on these cars on average.

As for the air path calibration, hopefully over the weekend we will be seeing a knowledgeable man with a posh diagnostic computer that will be able to see to that side of things. Lastly the throttle body was changed for a new one in March 2022. So although I don't rule it out, I would think it's unlikely to be the throttle body so soon.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

no problem mate let us know how it goes after your return

We got back from our weekend at Land Rover Owner International Show at Belvoir Castle Sunday evening and then Alana had the car on Monday so haven't been able to update this thread until today. Mostly good news! The hour and half journey up and the car ran fine. No engine management light to be seen and most importantly no limp mode. So I think I've cured our turbo related issue.

Seeing as we were on the Muddy Freelander stand with MuddyMods, Chell was nice enough to plug their posh snap on computer into our car and got the same codes as above:

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