Hi,
My first post here.
I've had haldex scrabbling problems for yrs on my freelander .I had a reconditioned diff fitted last year and almost immediately it started again. So I pulled the fuse and have been running in 2 wheel drive since then.

I'm now convinced it's the stuck accumulator problem describe in the video from Matt at Haldexrepairs (Autofault finder) as the lip seal has failed 3 times twice causing a nose bearing failure and I get no warning lights regarding the N373 valve. I've removed the coupling and cleaned all the races, pump filters and replaced the filter ,flushed with brake cleaner, also removed the N373 valve and visually it looks good.
Before I commit to a reconditioned haldex costing around £750 id like to try to remove and clean the accumulator, I'm told this requires 'complex' tooling but if it saves me hundreds of pounds I'm willing to try it or at least give it to someone who can.
As an addition to this, is there a way to test the functionality of the N373 valve?

Anyone have any suggestions?

You need a nut case who is willing to risk his life by somehow supporting the ????? tonnes of
force holding the end cap in place whilst drilling out the 2 holding bolts.
Then being able to release the spring to remove the accumulator which may have a
damaged ceramic (?) plunger anyway.

THEN
put it back together again with new bolts.

There is a reason why athe reconditioned haldex DONT have the accumulator replaced.

Probably the only person who tried it has no head.

Just strip the haldex down and clean the galleries etc, with brake cleaner, blowing them out with an air line.

I definitely wouldn't attempt to mess with the accumulator, and I have access to 20 ton press, and many other tools designed to handle bearing replacements and stuff.

Make sure you use a genuine filter for the Haldex. I had scrabbling for a while, so ran 2WD except when needed.
After I serviced the Haldex this time, I used a genuine filter, and now the scrabbling seems to have gone, being replaced by the feeling that the Haldex has locked when pulling away. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

You would need at least 100 ton press to release it.
I think Bell have done at least one, but not sure if the bravery lasted😂

Thanks guys, I wont be touching the accumulator then, I can now see that there is no pressure on the lip seal, so now thinking bearing in the haldex or N373 valve, this kinda leaves me back at square 1. I have the coupling removed and have flushed all of the things I can get too. i noticed the filter has no spring but I have a Borg Warner replacement, removed and tested the pump and it seems fine,
I'm now gonna strip the coupling as much as I can to inspect.

2 things,

1.I have a variable 1.5 to 12 volt supply to test the N373 valve, is it ok just to connect directly to the terminals to function test this?
It's a bit if a project this but if it's a bearing in the haldex i have a local guy can press this.

Thanks again, these things baffle even my friendly local mechanic!

2. How do I remove the basket to get to the clutch plates, I see some tabs ,is it simply bending these.

There are youtube videos from eastern europe showing haldex dismantling and rebuild.
Have you seen them ?

For example
&ab_channel=ValeriuPrisacaru Jules

Thanks Jules,
I've seen many of these and current haldex coupling is stripped as far as this particular video goes.

Yes just straighten the staked splines
Then stake them ( bend back) after refitting

The ENDS OF THE SPLINES
The thick steel splines are the splines that the clutch plates slide on.
Three are bent over to stop the plates sliding off.
Just lever the end plate off which holds the circular needle bearing etc.
I haven’t access to my notes.

I can’t remember what holds the end plate on, whether it was a spring wire or those two tabs
It’s not rocket science, just poke and prod and all will be revealed (as the actress said to the Bishop)

I can find very little on removing the basket but this is a page from a pdf by a company called Dodson ,requires a bearing puller to clear the tabs.
Available here, https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source...i=89978449



I also applied 3v to the terminals of the N373 valve and it seems to function ok😉

I didn’t use a puller
The only hard bit was bending the spline tabs open and closing again
Took about 30 mins

I am sure my ancestor John Whitton, who went to Australia a long time ago
would have managed it without a puller