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jules

Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4999

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

It would be great if we had a sticky thread of equivalent parts and their codes, that members could add to as time goes by. Jules

11th Feb 2024 8:39 pm

AndyP

Member Since: 09 May 2007
Location: Reading
Posts: 101

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Sumatra Black

I Like Chips wrote:
AndyP wrote:

If you're replacing the injector supply pipes (as recommended) then you'll find Ford equivalents cheaper.

Do you have the ford code numbers please

Sorry, but I think if you spend a short time googling you'll get the equivalent part numbers . Then you go search on the Ford numbers. The TD4 was widely used in the Transit.

12th Feb 2024 8:38 am

AndyP

Member Since: 09 May 2007
Location: Reading
Posts: 101

Gibsonc wrote:
Yep I’ve got the superseded camshafts to go in!

I’m taking it very slow getting apart having never done anything like this before. I’ve got the cambelt off and believe I now need to put the engine in the “safe position” - is this as simple as spinning the crankshaft 90 degrees backwards from TDC?

I haven’t decided to replace the fuel lines but did think about it. This is a second car for me so budget is a consideration to a degree. My thinking being if they don’t leak then great but if they do then it’s not a massive strip down to replace them. Perhaps bad logic though?

The Haynes manual was useful for the disassembly , first time I worked on common rail engines with ECU injectors. I was lucky the injectors came out easily. Change your glow plugs at the same time.
I made the tools to hold the sprockets etc , as shown by Haynes.
I do remember stressing over the camshaft pulley alignment , 'are the dots opposite? sort of thing', hence the importance of turning it over by hand , though I found given the compression of diesel no spark plugs to remove it was a mission.

Another tip is to make sure you lubricate around the valves and hydraulic tappets etc before adding back the camshafts. Don't get too inquisitive about the hydraulic lifters ... if you let them drain down then and if you did get the alignment wrong you many not notice valve interference since they wouldn't be lifting the valves to their normal extent.

And Finally ... in your case you'd want to make sure you've got all pieces out from the broken shaft , some of the oil ways in the engine are pretty small and easily closed with remaining debris.

And finally - Finally I discovered the weakness in the crankshaft position sensor connector ( threads on here ) that caused my newly assembled engine to fail after a few miles , you can probably imagine the oh S*** moment ... remade the connector and Robert is your relation ...

12th Feb 2024 8:55 am

Nodge68

Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Gibsonc wrote:
Yep I’ve got the superseded camshafts to go in!

I’m taking it very slow getting apart having never done anything like this before. I’ve got the cambelt off and believe I now need to put the engine in the “safe position” - is this as simple as spinning the crankshaft 90 degrees backwards from TDC?

I haven’t decided to replace the fuel lines but did think about it. This is a second car for me so budget is a consideration to a degree. My thinking being if they don’t leak then great but if they do then it’s not a massive strip down to replace them. Perhaps bad logic though?

Set the engine in the locked position on the flywheel, it'll be fine. I've had my top end apart twice, there's no need for messing about, just leave it locked.

If the injectors come out easily, then the injectors and rail can be removed as a unit, without splitting the injector lines. That's the way I did it last time. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

12th Feb 2024 3:00 pm

Gibsonc

Member Since: 28 Jan 2024
Location: South East
Posts: 6

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Baltic Blue

That’s really helpful thank you! I was a bit worried as with the cambelt off I managed to spin the camshafts a bit whilst the engine was locked in TDC.

I’ve got the engine fairly well disassembled now - I just need to get the last bolt off the back of the EGR and the cam cover can come off.

The injectors came out pretty easily in the end as did the glow plugs! I’ve also managed to get the swirl flaps out of the intake manifold.

I’ve got a starter motor solenoid kit whilst the starter motor is off along with new camshaft, crankshaft and map sensor (which I managed to break whilst doing the swirl flaps).

Hopefully I should make more progress this weekend.

12th Feb 2024 9:08 pm

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