Ok so after adding another couple of coats of paint to the rear discs, which were allowed to dry for a couple of days, i decided to change the rear discs & pads on Boxing day.

Car was chocked at the front.
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Front locking nuts removed.
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The rest of the wheel nuts undone/cracked open, so when the car was raised it would be easy to take the wheel off.
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The back of the FL2 was then jacked up to accept axle stands.
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Before jacking it fully up and taking the wheels off i put the EPB into maintenance mode, following the above post on how to do it.
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The FL2 was then jacked up to the level where axle stands could be used.
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The trolley jack was also still left in place.
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The axle stands where put on the jacking points either side of the FL.
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Next with the wheels off the ground it was time to remove the wheels.
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The Electronic Parking Brake mechanism.
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These are the pads on the car before changing them and the discs.
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I suspect a few owners would not have changed these pads & discs.
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I wanted to start from scratch so i know the jobs have been done, these are jobs i would do with any car i purchased.

The next job was to undo the Torx holding the disc to the hub.
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You may have to wedge the disc but i just did a quick snap turn and the torx screw cracked loose, (lucky maybe)
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you will need to do this both sides either at the same time or after you have done one side first.
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Put the torx screw in a safe place.
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Next lift the bonnet and loosen & remove the brake reservoir cap, to check the level.
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If it's up to the max line like mine was then you will need to pull some out with a syringe, you could do this now or wait until you have to push back the brake piston to help fit the new pads which will be thicker being new, that is if you are changing them and the discs.

The next job is to undo and remove the sliding pin bolts, you will need 15mm open end spanner, and a 13mm ratchet ring spanner, / or socket.
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If you use a ring spanner it will only allow you to undo it to a point then it will snag on the EPB mechanism, so 13mm long socket would be best.
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The bottom bolts you can use the ratchet and open end spanners.
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Have a strap, hook or bungie ready to hold the Caliper out of the way once removed.
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Remove the bolts top and bottom.
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Hang the Caliper/EPB out of the way.
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You can now remove the old pads.
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you can see these are quite mucky and dirty.
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Removed from the carrier.
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Next to the new pads, i have two sets of news pads.
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TRW & Landrover trw ones.
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Note the ones taken off & the Landrover trw ones have the leading edge chaffered, the TRW ones are not.
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Ok so next job is to remove the carrier, 15mm good six sided socket, used with a long ratchet if you have one, if not then use an extension bar.
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Once the bolts has been cracked you can use a smaller socket with a 15mm socket.
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Once loosened remove the bolts.
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The Caliper carrier can now be removed from the disc.
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The carrier will need cleaning up unless you are fitting new ones.
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The disc is now ready to be removed, it may slide off or it may need a little help.
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Tap it with an hammer, it should dislodge the disc if it is struck.
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Once loose it will slide off.
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The back plate may need cleaning up mine did.
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Scrape & wire brush the back disc, which i did and used some rust preventer come spring i will replace the back plates.
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Next the carriers need cleaning up.
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Remove the old brake pads shims/holders. noting which way and where they fit, in respect to top and bottom.
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You can see from this photo they are different.
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The carrier can now be wire brushed & scraped as clean as you can get it.
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The back plate rust liquid is starting to work turning purple, it will then turn black.
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Carriers are also TRW
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I have scraped and wire brushed the carrier which seems fine and clearly shows another number.
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Next i used some WD40 to spray onto the carrier, which was brushed in using a small wire brush.
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This was then dried off using the small butane burner.
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The carrier is now ready to fit back on the car.
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Fit the brake pad shims the same way they came of the carrier.
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Now ready once the disc has been put back on.
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The back plate has now started to turn black which will do until spring.
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Using a bit of copper grease add a little to the inside of the disc drum.
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Smear it all round thinly.
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Fit the disc to the FL.
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Fit the carrier to the car.
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Tighten the bolts up before they are torqued up.
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Next you can slide in the new pads.
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Which have been greased.
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Both pads now in place, ready to fit the caliper back onto the FL.
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You will need to push back the piston slowly, there are different ways to do this, some undo the nipple, with a tube on it going into a jar, some just use a lever and push it back i used the tool, and did it very slowly, do some more reading to find out which way is more convenient for you.
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Offer the Caliper to the disc and fit the new bolts.
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Repeating the above on the other side of the FL2.

Refit the wheels and torque the nuts up to 133nm check again after 25 miles and maybe again at the end of the week.

Last edited by Arctic on 1st Oct 2024 9:22 am. Edited 3 times in total

Just seem this in another thread - nice pics.

FWIW the back plates (aka mud shields) are becoming hard to find - there are a couple of versions too. Jules

[quote]Just seem this in another thread - nice pics.

FWIW the back plates (aka mud shields) are becoming hard to find - there are a couple of versions too.

Jules

Quote:

I don't think I'd have been replacing those discs and pads for many more miles.
Re the back plates, don't the hubs need to come off to replace the rears? If so you'll be into new bearings also. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Quote:

I don't think I'd have been replacing those discs and pads for many more miles.
Re the back plates, don't the hubs need to come off to replace the rears? If so you'll be into new bearings also.

I did a little pre prep on MY07 yesterday while the weather was dry, had to drill out a front disc grub screw, it was stuck fast discs last changed in 2017, so new discs and pads ordered for front and rear ready to change out again come spring.

Didn’t you consider the 316mm front brake upgrade being as you were fitting new discs and pads? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Really good write up, appreciate the time you spent on this report. Its very helpful.

Excellent write up there.
Funny thing on the FL2 brakes worth noting is that they tend to get through rear pads and discs more quickly than the fronts when you have the electric parking brake version. On my last 14 plate XS auto which I replaced at 75k miles the rear discs needed replacing (MOT failure) whilst the fronts were still OK and the car got through two sets of front pads but three sets of rears in 75k miles. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

That's quite common, especially if you tow regularly as well the rears seem to take a punishment. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I also noticed that my FL2s wore the back pads/discs quicker than the fronts, I always put this down to the fact it had it was my first car to have the Stability Control features that use the rear brakes individually to keep me on track and upright. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I have noticed that the rear pads wear down quicker on the rear.

I have kept the previous pad bases to get re-shoed with metal pads as per previous cars which stop the dust issue, they were green, no idea what they were made out of, with aluminium flecks in them, about 265,000km for each car. Same black dust issue prior to metal pads.

I might accelerate fast in the car, at times, but I am not a heavy braker & the pads have lasted well. Actually had to replace all discs so they must be pretty soft steel. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Yep my rears were changed first. Jules

It has been nearly 12 months since i changed the rear discs and pads so by the end of the month hopefully weather permitting i can check and change pads if they need to be changed.

FWIW my rear pads got changed at 38K miles (5 years old) largely because one pad had suddenly lost its pad material due to rust causing separation of the pad material from the metal backing plate . The disks were very rusting too but none of the pads had actually worn right down.

Car is now 10 years old and has only done another 25K miles but the rear disks are looking very rusting again. Jules