That would be great I like chips. If you could point it at the pump too because I think it would be quite interesting to see what sort of temperatures fully working power steering gets to.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

jules wrote:

Dean1234 wrote:

Absolutely nothing. It's sat in there like it's on a Caribbean holiday with a pina colada in it's hand. There's no froffing, bubbling or air of any kind when the engine is on. There isn't even any sign of fluid being pulled in or returned back with the engine running and steering being turned. But maybe that's normal as I've never studied the fluid before when it was working. The only time there is movement is when the steering gets to either lock-stop and it drops about 1 mm and then pops back up when it's off the lock-stop.

Ive just been out to check mine. With the engine running you cannot see any PAS fluid movement inside the reservoir - the surface is like a mill pond.

FL2ukkent wrote:

No expert but i would not expect the fluid to get hot otherwise surly the viscosity of the fluid would change.

Warren at MuddyMods was nice enough to confirm to Alana that fluid movement with the engine off is very normal. He sent us over 2 short videos. 1 of the fluid moving and 1 of the fluid jumping out of the pot.

So in my head, my issue HAS to be with the reservoir. It's the only part to have actually changed. If LRDirect would hurry up with my order that I ordered at 11am on Wednesday and they say that it takes 1 day to pick and dispatch ... [/rant]  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

if they sent it by Royal Snail? then you might get it next week ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Here are the temperatures for the bottle and pump with warm engine running at tickover

Pump, on the pump body just inside of the pulley there is a flat area. 56.5 C

Bottle outer 52.2 C

Fluid in Bottle 60 C

Rommel wrote:

if they sent it by Royal Snail? then you might get it next week !

It would be nice if it was even in the couriers hands . Apparently they had to order an Hitachi pump from Allmakes 4x4 because they didn't have one even though their website said and still says that they have 1 in stock...

Thanks for that info I like chips . According to the internet (which is always right...), things get uncomfortable to touch at about 50 to 60 degrees C. So the temperature my fluid and power steering pump are getting to are probably not to abnormal like I was starting to think. Although it does surprise me how hot the power steering actually runs and also surprises me that only the petrol model got the power steering cooler.

I was just looking through the service manual for the 900th time and it blows my mind that no-where in it does it say to bleed the power steering with the engine off! I think it may of been mentioned in this thread already. It tells me to stick a giant funnel in the power steering reservoir, fill it with almost 4L of fluid, extended the return line into a big bottle and then start the car and leave the car to do the work in short.
Now, even between me and Alana both on it, on a system that can max out at 8.8L/min, that sounds like a recipe for fluid being spilt everywhere and huge amounts of air being sucked in.

Edit: By the way, incase I end up changing the pump on Saturday/Sunday, is there anything different I should be doing? Any extra steps in the bleeding process? I'm planning to do lots of engine off, lock-to-lock if I've put a new pump on. I don't really want to put a new pump on and destroy it if I can help it.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

I've been watching this post all week but would'nt comment untill I had sorted mine out.

I have literally had this same problem, I too started with the easiest option of changing the fluid bottle to no avail, then the pump again to no avail, had a chat with my motor factor who said, "did you change the rack at the same time as the bottle" they assured me that it would be 100% be the rack and it would be putting bits of worn rubber seals into the bottle. Now I've got the car back togerther with a replacement rack and the steering is back to 100% ok, just awaiting my bottom engine mounting replacement, fingers crossed it will be here today.

I will just point out that knowning how much all these parts were going to cost I opted for the flebay option (otherwise my motor factors would have told me sooner grrrr) there brilliant with me at my motor factors.

Dean I knew I saw something about this problem. Sorry it appears to be a costly fix.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2394514960...20o%20ring

'Chips' your link is'nt working

“Chips' your link is'nt working”

I suspect you have to be a member of the group to be able see it. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

dreamlands wrote:

"did you change the rack at the same time as the bottle" they assured me that it would be 100% be the rack and it would be putting bits of worn rubber seals into the bottle. Now I've got the car back togerther with a replacement rack and the steering is back to 100% ok, just awaiting my bottom engine mounting replacement, fingers crossed it will be here today.

Dreamlands, out of interest, how old do you estimate your steering rack to have been? I only ask because my thought process is that it seems like most people that have this issue are replacing the original, out of the factory rack. I don't think I've seen a post where someone has replaced a rack that's less than 3 to 5 years old.

With the fact that our rack is currently 10 months old, my head is telling me that it surely cannot be that... I'm not sure if it was a new rack installed or a referbed rack. But I trust the person and the garage that did it and would've been of a decent standard.

I Like Chips: I'm not sure if you can post a screenshot or copy and paste the info can you? As others have said, it looks like you have to be a member to see anything.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

"With the fact that our rack is currently 10 months old" blimmy thats not even been used lol, mines a 2008 and the rack looked original with 172000 on the clock, I was considering the cost of fixing or scraping, I love the car, runs perfect, no knocks or anything so I opted for the fix.

Hopefully we have at least another 9 years and 2 months use of it before the rack gives us grief.

A new video update incoming. You know you couldn't go more than 2 days without one.

https://youtu.be/u8VEqHTy2a4

For those who don't watch the video. I guess the main things from it is, if the problem isn't fixed with the change of reservoir and I end up fitting a pump. The instructions for the pump ask for the car to be cranked over but not started. How's the best way to do this on the Freelander 2? In the video I had the idea of pressing the button to start the engine but pressing it before it fires as the only idea that I had?

Also, would I be right in the places I pointed at on where to fill it before it gets to the car?

Thanks everyone for your continued input . https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Dean it's in the FB group below, I didn't realise about joining to view. the link works on my machine. It's free to join

Land Rover Freelander 2