Arctic wrote:

Do we know which is the best diff kit to get to refurbish the diff, ie bearings cogs etc, and are they different from an Auto to manual, with what bearings and cogs are used inside the diff.

Will a diff from a 2010 be ok to use in a 2014 so a few questions which would be good to clear up by those with more experience of the diff's.

Quote:

I rebuilt my own, using a diff from a 2012 Evoque as a base. I couldn't use my original diff, as it was destroyed and seized solid.
I use a bearing and seals kit from ebay that had Cortico seals and Timken bearings. You also need the tool to rebuilt it.

My (original) diff was on 150,000mls with original oil when I sold the Freelander. The Freelander was ex lease and serviced in accordance with LR service schedules. Changing the oil was on my to do list but I never got round to it. I bought it with 132,000miles on the clock and sold it after 18months and 18,000mls. It was still on the original clutch, turbo ,ptu etc as well.

Arctic wrote:

Quote:

I rebuilt my own, using a diff from a 2012 Evoque as a base. I couldn't use my original diff, as it was destroyed and seized solid.
I use a bearing and seals kit from ebay that had Cortico seals and Timken bearings. You also need the tool to rebuilt it.

Hi John.
Any links for the above please tool and ebay seller, for the kit. cheers Arctic

I have 67k on mine and changed rear diff oil and PTU as well as Haldex at approx 50k so will replace all 3 again this year.
Frequent oil changes has got to be the way forward

It’s absolutely disgusting that Land Rover knew about the diff crown bearing problem not long after the first cars rolled off the production lines but failed to address the problem in the whole FL2’s production life.

Nodge68 wrote:

Arctic wrote:

Quote:

I rebuilt my own, using a diff from a 2012 Evoque as a base. I couldn't use my original diff, as it was destroyed and seized solid.
I use a bearing and seals kit from ebay that had Cortico seals and Timken bearings. You also need the tool to rebuilt it.

Hi John.
Any links for the above please tool and ebay seller, for the kit. cheers Arctic

Quote:

I got the tool off a forum member.

The kit I bought doesn't seem to be available now. However it was like this one. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-differen...36637.html

I'm going to be getting mine out before the next MOT, as I want to either replace the subframe, or clean it up and replace some of the suspension links.
I've found a supplier that will send out an OE subframe and all the suspension links for £580, which I'm very tempted to get.
If I was to replace all the suspension links, it's going to cost over £300, so effectively I'll be buying a new subframe for under £300. So it's the a toss up as to weather it's worth my time plus rust treatments and paint vs simply replacing the subframe? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Wondering how much Muddy Mods charge for the full kit

A company in N Ireland are asking £580.

I believe the bits are sourced through Britpart

Quote:

Nodge68 wrote:

I'm going to be getting mine out before the next MOT, as I want to either replace the subframe, or clean it up and replace some of the suspension links.
I've found a supplier that will send out an OE subframe and all the suspension links for £580, which I'm very tempted to get.
If I was to replace all the suspension links, it's going to cost over £300, so effectively I'll be buying a new subframe for under £300. So it's the a toss up as to weather it's worth my time plus rust treatments and paint vs simply replacing the subframe?

Mine had a drain plug fitted at 48,000 miles and the oil changed every other service after that.
Silent as the grave when I sold her at 185,000 miles.
Hard miles, down a quarry for the first 18 months, dragged a caravan all over Europe, off-road at pay and play sites as often as I was allowed.

Oil is cheap, why would you not change it every 24,000 miles or even every service?

Just don't understand the extended oil service idea or even the fit and forget mentality, changing the oil gets rid of the swarf and debris that are a normal part of wear and tear. You aren't changing the oil you are cleaning out the rubbish. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

The decision to make transmission parts (gearbox, haldex, diff) 'Sealed for Life' were taken under the Ford controlled period.
From what I understand different strategies were adopted by other 'Ford' products using the same chassis/architecture (Volvo?) at the time.
If this is right, I do not understand how they arrived at the different decisions.

I have no doubt that changing the oil, degraded by getting continually 'sliced' by the gears, and as mentioned above containing ever increasing swarf, is best for prolonging life.
But things change, and we cannot, it seems, employ someone to go round every morning with an oily rag and an oil can as they did with the steam engines, or for that matter a grease gun for bearings.

At this point I have to tell you that I have taken part, as a senior field engineer/project manager, in quite a few company level maintenance/cost/quality reviews, and therefore realise quite a lot of thought goes into these decisions. (I also know that you need a 'Cast Iron' case to get past the 'Bean Counters') FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Yes, whatever happened to cast iron
My Morris ten was full of cast iron
( and the original diff is still working after 90 years and 4 months and working through two world wars)

"Just don't understand the extended oil service idea or even the fit and forget mentality, changing the oil gets rid of the swarf and debris that are a normal part of wear and tear. You aren't changing the oil you are cleaning out the rubbish."

Its all about minimising the servicing costs during the warranty period, in a competitive market built on selling new cars. What happens in the long term is of no real importance to the sales people. Jules

Exactly. JLR’s competitors have more frequent service requirements for the same or similar components. Me, I'll go for the scheduled oil change rather than the unscheduled breakdown every time!