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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Many thanks Bobupndown,SYFL2 Nodge68,Jack frost, PRadd, Averling, & jules for all your replies, oil ordered now and once if arrives, i will set about on a nice dry winters day changing all the oil fluids and post up cheers guys.

Post #436648 28th Oct 2023 7:10 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Ok so update replaced the engine oil filter and oil, using the Smith & Allan C1 F 5w-30
1

Used a febi oil filter
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New copper washer, also change the air filter at the same time, later today or Sunday weather depending hope to change the Diff oil & PTU oil intend to use this below.
4

I did think about using this below anyone used it for their PTU & Diff.
5

Post #436738 4th Nov 2023 1:20 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 967

Australia 

"I did think about using this below anyone used it for their PTU & Diff".

That's just for the Haldex, it's not gear oil as such! (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #436739 4th Nov 2023 2:57 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5061

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

yes the haldex oil is very different to what goes in the PTU and rear diff Jules

Post #436742 4th Nov 2023 8:30 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Badger51 wrote:
"I did think about using this below anyone used it for their PTU & Diff".

That's just for the Haldex, it's not gear oil as such!


yes the haldex oil is very different to what goes in the PTU and rear diff

Jules


Yes guys i know it's Haldex oil, but i recently had a message from NCA motors because when their oil arrived it really looks like 75w-90 oil.

Whereas when i purchased oil from another seller for my Tambora the oil was completely different in colour and thickness.
1


Last edited by Arctic on 7th Nov 2023 9:48 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #436743 4th Nov 2023 10:15 am
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Jack frost



Member Since: 21 Dec 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 796

United Kingdom 

Opie.co.uk are the guys for any oil info you require

Post #436757 4th Nov 2023 4:30 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Today i got another job out of the way on the ORK FL2 SD4 the rear diff oil was changed.

The oil that was used was Smith & Allan FS 75w/90
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This was added to my hand pump 1ltr even though the rear diff takes 0.7litres, it helps when pumping if you are not sucking up the dregs at the bottom of the container.
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The FL was already on the four ramps which are always used when working under the car.
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The little suction pumps and the battery were also ready under the rear of the FL, along with my 13mm aviation spanner & socket ratchet.
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Cracked the filler plug open, with the aviation spanner excellent to get that little more leverage.
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Turned the filler plug out slowly with my hand, i was expecting a little oil to drip out but nowt,
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A bit mucky but not really bad.
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The copper washer was left behind, which was removed has a new one is going to be fitted.
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Hooked the pump up to the battery which was fully charged.
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The pump with it's little 5mm drain pipe was pushed into the diff and the removal of the oil was started.
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This is a slow process because the volume of withdrawal is not that fast, and towards the end it slows down even more, the first 10 minutes is not to bad.
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Maybe about 400ml removed in the first 10mins then you have to start moving the suction pipe about in the diff, by 12.28pm most if not all the oil was removed, copper washer removed cleaned up around the filler entrance.
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This is the amount that was sucked out.
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You can clearly see it's very dark brown as opposed the the nice golden colour.
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This was then poured into a measuring jug.
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The total amount that was sucked out was 700ml
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Amounts from the owners book
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I hooked up my hand pump.
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This was held in place with a rubber bung, once pumping had been commenced & oil was dribbling out i stopped.
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700ml back in the plug was fitted and i started the car for about 10mins.
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Plug removed added another 50ml until dripping again plug refitted job done, overall 750ml
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I will remove the plug again later today when i am doing the PTU if weather allows, to let it drip until it stops.

Post #436966 12th Nov 2023 12:48 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

ORK is back on earth after checking the diff oil once again and adding two small magnets to the filler plug outside, weather did not allow the PTU to have it's oil change, so when we get another couple of dry days Rolling Eyes the PTU will get done.
1



magnet on the filler plug.
3


Last edited by Arctic on 24th Nov 2023 8:52 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #436998 12th Nov 2023 10:58 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5061

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

you have been busy Thumbs Up Jules

Post #437000 12th Nov 2023 11:32 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
you have been busy Thumbs Up

Jules


Hi Jules.
thank you Laughing hopefully do a few more jobs towards this weekend, ORK had it longest journey today since i have owned it, 252 miles to wales and back to deliver Xmas presents to daughter and put up TV on the wall and 5 wall shelves.

Post #437082 15th Nov 2023 11:24 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Today with the decent weather the PTU got it's oil change, oil used was the (smith & Allan ) in the photo below gear tech FS 75w-90.
1

The ORK was lifted onto the two sets of ramps which is what are used for any work under the FL 2 it is an auto SD4.
2

The engine under tray was removed four 13mm bolts.

Battery, small pump, and bottle for the old oil set up, ready for the extraction.
3

Cracked the 13mm filler plug on the PTU, using a long aviation ring spanner.
4

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Once carked i then used a small ratchet ring spanner, this enabled me to undo the rest with my fingers.
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The plug didn't look to bad considering i doubt this oil as ever been changed in the last 9 years because of LR recommendations that it's not in the maintenance schedules?
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The capper sealing ring was left behind when the plug was removed.
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This was removed and discarded a new sealing ring/washer was being installed, i left it in place while i pumped out the old oil, 5mm suction tube inserted into the filler hole.
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The pump was then connected to the 12v battery fully charged, and the outlet hose into the bottle, the pump was switched on.
10

We had the oil flowing out of the PTU, which does not look to bad dark golden colour.
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Into the bottle.
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The pump was left to do it's work while i did a few jobs in the shed and add a new bolt to one of the side steps on the ORK, by 12.58pm no more oil was coming out of the PTU, note the copper washer has been removed.
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The amount of oil extracted was 500ml therefore 250ml must be left in the PTU the official amount being 0.75litre17 =1.23 pints.
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The oil looks a bit darker now it's in the measure jug but looks to be in decent condition, no metal bits etc
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The bottle pump that is used to refill the PTU was set up and hooked into the filler hole.
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The pumping proceeds to the point of the 500ml that was extracted from the PTU.
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No oil was yet dripping from the filler hole, so another 100ml was pumped in this now made 600ml then oil stated to drip.
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Marked an X on the PTU ready for a drain plug come spring when i will changed the oil again, basically making this oil change a flushing one.
22

I left the oil to stop dripping while i put away the battery, pump, and old oil, once that was sorted i added the filler plug with a new copper washer.

23

Another job out of the way, tomorrow my intentions are to drop the oil from the Haldex, remove the new pump, and filter check if it needs cleaning inside and add a new filter which is only 6 weeks old apparently.

Post #437286 25th Nov 2023 12:31 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey
Haldex Oil

Ok so i have had the ORK (MY14) purchased on the 15th, in my hands since the 19th September when it was delivered.

I have since done the above oil changes, engine, rear diff, and the PTU, so i decided on the 25th because we had a little good weather to remove the Haldex pump, it's filter and change the oil out, which has only been in for 8weeks when a new pump and filter plus flushing out was done by the dealer who i purchased it from, this was to try and eradicate a slight grabbing/ scrabbling from the rear.

If it did not sort out the problem he promised to book it in with Bell Engineering, it did not solve the problem, he also went back on his promise, i therefore had a little fight to get a small refund from him/them, towards myself booking it in with Bell Engineering on the 8th January.

My thoughts being even though the oil, pump & filter were only 8wks old it would not hurt to remove the pump, filter and oil, give it another flush out before Jan 8th.

Oil being used 8100 AWD Getriebeole.
1

Ok so my plans did not all go to plan, first i could not remove the Haldex pump, and or the Haldex filter, which as i said above had been replaced 8 weeks ago by the dealer to try and sort out the grabbing, where upon they added the new pump, and filter, and supposedly flushed the oil and added new Ravenol oil.

I therefore only removed the oil again by suction method, FL2 is going into Bell Engineering on the 8th January, so pump and filter will be removed then but until then i thought just do and oil change, it should not be that bad only being changed 8wks ago.

Cracked the the 13mm filler plug.
2

Inserted the 5mm plastic tube which is quite stiff opposed to a clear soft tube, you can direct it more into where you need to.
3

The was joined to the little extraction pump which was connected to the 12v battery fully charged.
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The pump was started.
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Oil got flowing right away.
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7

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After about 15 minutes 12.30pm i had managed to remove 500ml
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I poured this into a jug for measuring the colour does not look like 8wk old oil to me.
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This is why i have not believed the seller since i purchased the car.
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Anyways i filled two little pump containers with 300ml each, compare that to the oil taken out.
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Filed with 600ml and no oil was over flowing from out of the Haldex.
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So another 100ml was added and it started to flow out, the amount it states in the hand book is 0.65litres = (1.14pints).
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Filler plug was fitted so the engine could be started for about 10mins, i then removed it and sucked out 50ml, the filler plug was refitted and a magnet added to the outside.
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The same has the rear diff one.
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I took it for a drive and the grabbing/ scrabbling was less than before, I'm now maybe going to leave it at that until the Bell Engineering appointment, or if i do feel like it and get another good day of weather towards end of December i may drop the oil again and refill.

Would it be possible for 8wk old oil to be the colour above ?

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/servi...rvice-kit/


Last edited by Arctic on 27th Dec 2023 10:47 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #437318 27th Nov 2023 2:33 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5061

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Unless you dismantle the haldex you cant get all the old oil out. Just sucking it will leave a fair bit inside the oil ways and pump etc I'd have thought.
Was the pump filter cleaned when the disposable filter was replaced? Jules

Post #437323 27th Nov 2023 11:35 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Unless you dismantle the haldex you cant get all the old oil out. Just sucking it will leave a fair bit inside the oil ways and pump etc I'd have thought.
Was the pump filter cleaned when the disposable filter was replaced?

Jules
[quote]

Hi Jules.
I agree that was my intentions, but because of time and also difficultly removing the pump and filter in the time i had, the option of just changing the oil was my only one.

There is no way the dealer removed the Haldex and cleaned it out, they just replaced the pump for a new one and the filter.
1

Did they remove the old filter or just add a new cap? my trust was broken with them after reneging on the deal to book it in with Bell Engineering if it did not solve the problem which it didn't.
2

Bell Engineering will be doing that in January but they give no warranty or guarantee on the work it will solve the grabbing/scrabbling.

I did the test from ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ )

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/land-rover...solutions/

Unplugged the large connection waited the 20 minutes drove the car no scrabbling or grabbing, so now i am wondering do i just need a N373 valve, or their scrabbling fix.

I have dropped Matthew a message and waiting on a reply.

Really i would like to solve this myself if i can, i am on the look out for a FL2 Gen 4 Haldex unit to play with.


Last edited by Arctic on 5th Dec 2023 7:42 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #437324 27th Nov 2023 12:58 pm
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 561

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
Bell Engineering will be doing that in January but they give no warranty or guarantee on the work it will solve the grabbing/scrabbling.

I did the test from ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ )

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/land-rover...solutions/

Unplugged the large connection waited the 20 minutes drove the car no scrabbling or grabbing, so now i am wondering do i just need a N373 valve, or their scrabbling fix.

I have Matthew them a message and waiting on a reply.

Really i would like to solve this myself if i can, i am on the look out for a FL2 Gen 4 Haldex unit to play with.


Ok more news from the above, i have been in contact with Matthew from Auto fault Finder ltd, one and the same ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ ).
4
He informed to remove the ECU & N373 valve send them to him to test, also that the oil above which is Mannol is not really any good and suggested i remove it, replacing it with, Statoil manufactured/formulated Haldex oil from either VAG, BorgWarner, Febi, Volvo etc.
1

Today the ORK was back on the ramps, the ECU & N373 valve removed, then posted out to Matthew.
2

3



I also loosened the bolts from the dougnut ready to remove the shaft tomorrow weather depending, i will then hopefully remove the Haldex if not at least remove the pump, and the filter.

I have also bagged myself a rear diff with Haldex gen 4 attached to play with, hopefully that will arrive early next week.

Post #437461 1st Dec 2023 5:43 pm
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