Brilliant write up Arctic and the pictures you've taken the time to take and add make this better than any workshop guide I've ever seen.

HNY to all ok so adding more to the thread to share the info and maybe give a god read.

Carrying on from above removing the bell housing, undo the bolts around the housing.
1

With all the bolts removed i used a wood drift to open the housing as it was stuck, only a light tap mind.
2

That opened a little gap for me.
3

I was then able to get a wide 25mm /1inc wood chisel into the gap and lever the housing away from the diff.
4

This was still not enough it was holding hard, so the big guns had to be used, a long lever bar.
5

That did the job and the housing was free from the diff.
6

In this photo you can see the filler plug in the diff.
7

The housing plate looked fairly clean just a little brown old oil residue.
8

This i cleaned up using some old rags and some brake cleaner.
9

Looking inside the bell hosing the large cog seemed ok no damage, from the drilling or any other damage
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I pulled out the large gear cog, you could see the swarf from drilling the drain plug.
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Inside the housing there was also swarf.
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Now my thinking is this is there because the drain plug was drilled with the diff out of the car on a bench, it had no oil in it to help the swarf drain out, which if on a car it should do.

The diff housing inside was cleaned out with brake cleaner and wiped dry, this then shows you the drilled and tapped drain hole from inside.
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I think this is the bolt hole which some have used to use has a drain hole? ok if your diff does not have the allocation area for a proper drain hole which i think my07 Fl does not have.
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The drilled and tapped drain hole from the outside of the diff.
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New drain plug fitted, out side view.
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Inside view of the drain plug.
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I tried all the three drain plugs only the middle one fits perfectly, the other two got thread bound.
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I next cleaned up the large gear cog, again washing it off with brake cleaner.
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Close up of some of the numbers on the gear cog.
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All the teeth and rollers look to be in good condition.
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There is some stamping on the large cog anyone know what it means please.
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Feeling the rollers they seem ok, but should there be any play in the cage?
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Number on the roller cage.
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Also SKF stamped, so would these still be the originals.
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Another number on the roller.
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The drive shaft cog looks ok too no damage to any of the teeth.
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I marked the cog and turned round to the starting mark.
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Dropped the large cog wheel back into the diff and replaced the bell housing cover plate.
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The drain plug looks a little large for my liking 22mm very robust but looks out of place.
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So ordered a few other types which came on the 16/12/23
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Tried the above one, seems ok.
34

So does the Allen key one.
35

Another lot came on the 19/12/23.
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They fitted ok and perfect too.
37

They where all tested over a few days with oil in the diff all passed the test on the bench.

Which one i will use on the day i drill and tap the diff on the My14 Ork Freelander i will pick on the day.

PS the Ork diff was drilled and tapped on 8/1/24 write up and photos to follow.

Spoiler.
1

Last edited by Arctic on 10th Jan 2024 11:41 am. Edited 1 time in total

A couple days ago Monday 8/1/24 i decided after my above trial run on drilling and tapping the spare Freelander 2 diff i had i would tackle the diff on my current My2014 SD4.

So the FL was raised onto the four ramps which i always use when any work need doing under the car.
1

Requirements:

12mm drill bit

M14 x 1.5 tap

M14 drain plug with new copper washer.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295491948330?var=593586503778

Once the car was up and on the ramps i could set about cleaning, drilling and tapping the point on my diff, which has a area which is ideal for the drain plug.
2

3

First the flatted area was cleaned and polished with a small sanding flap in a drill.
4

Once i was satisfied it was flat and polished enough it was then ready for drilling out.
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Now the process of drilling out i did not take a photo of has i had to use both hands on the drill to make sure it was straight and square, the recess/hole already in the diff helps this, i used a good make Bosch 12mm metal drill bit, the duff being alloy drills very easy, so you must take care and control the drill steady.

Drilling slowly a little at each time.
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Until the drill bit went into the diff void, which you could feel right away by going slow, the oil stated to flow.
9

Note the oil is a decent colour because it was only sucked out and change in November 11 2023.
10

Below was a catch pan for the oil.
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As the oil drained quickly you could see it was in fact darker in content than when flowing out of the diff, this was most likely mixed with the little i could not get out by pump in November.
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The last dribbles of the old oil.
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By 13.45pm the oil had virtually stopped running out, but i jacked the near side rear up to make sure the oil was completely drained out.
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The rear diff should hole 0.7ltrs
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Bits of swarf was left in the catch tin, from drilling out the diff, which the old oil removed has it flowed.
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Also some swarf was left in the strainer i used when pouring the oil out of the can into the jug.
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I next prepared the new oil for the diff in my pump dispenser, 1ltr = 1000ml, this was left next to my radiator in my shed, which is run by diesel fuel burning heater from a Rover 75, so it would pump easy when needed.
20

Now it was time to check the drilled hole for any more swarf and clean the hole out with a few sprays of brake cleaner, even though when looking it looked to be very clean.
21

Right so with my trusty tap tool, which i made sure was square to the flat, i started to tap the drilled hole, 14ml drill bit.
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This was done slowly and precisely bit by bit.
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If you look close the remaining dregs of oil are bring out the alloy being tapped.
24

Click image to enlarge

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You should get a job at the your nearest JLR dealership; they have loads of broken down vehicles that need fixing.  Jules

Hi Artic. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to take pictures and write these guides. I don't suppose you're taking bookings to work on other people's cars?  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

Quote:

jules wrote:

You should get a job at the your nearest JLR dealership; they have loads of broken down vehicles that need fixing.

Hi Artic. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to take pictures and write these guides. Bow down I don't suppose you're taking bookings to work on other people's cars? Laughin

I saw the Rover 75 at its debut at the 1998 BHam Motor Show - thought it a lovely classic "British" car.

A friend had a MGZT estate for a few years before getting into SUVs.

I would have liked the V8. Jules

Hello, im changing atm my rear diff.

i took off haldex from old diff and changed filter, Gen3. i didn't manage to remove haldex pump because it didn't want to come off whit out dismantling driveshaft coupling so i skipped that part. Took the filter off, and was full of dirt.

when i was installing back filter, it was very tight then i needed to tap whit hammer from each corner and to get it fit correctly while tightening screws.

i did mark driveshaft coupling but i didn't mark anything on haldex, is there somekind of risk when installing haldex back to rear diff? do it need to be aligned? I will answear to my self.

I got it sorted no problem on haldex alligment.

And what comes to gen3 haldex pump, if I want remove it. Do I need to take off driveshaft coupling? which i just googled, its " input shaft flange " If so is it just spin it around whit airgun "

Got sorted it to, it needs to remove if you want gen3 pump away

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

After reading this long thread, was it ever so that Ravenol for Haldex was not good, or was it because other problems were solved, and turned out to be the solution?
I will not order any Haldex oil, before I read a reply, just to be sure.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

1

Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.
2

Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job:D
3

4

New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

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6

7

New copper washer for the oil drain plug.
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Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.
10

Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend.

Quote:

this was left next to my radiator in my shed, which is run by diesel fuel burning heater from a Rover 75

Redfox wrote:

After reading this long thread, was it ever so that Ravenol for Haldex was not good, or was it because other problems were solved, and turned out to be the solution?
I will not order any Haldex oil, before I read a reply, just to be sure.

Kind regards,
Redfox.

Sunday i only managed to do the rear diff oil, today has been a wash out again, hopfully tomorrow will let me do a little more.

1

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4

Last done in 2020.
5

Really need to add drain hole in the MY07 diff but where? this is not ideal.
6

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Anyone done a drain hole on the MY07 diff.

The PTU oil is due to be changed again soon because the first change which i did in November 2023 was to me a flushing change, also my intention is this time round i will drill and tap a drain hole plug.



I have gathered the drill bits, taps, and drain plugs i intend to use, yesterday i did a dry run on an alloy mount which was surplus to my requirements.



I purchased two different sizes and types of drain plugs.



M10 x 1.0 and M12 x 1.5 Allen key type

1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255571702589?var=555518513596



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255571710030?var=555518606563



Also the same in six sided hexagon bolts.



M10 x 1.0 and M12 1.5

2



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295491948330?var=593586503776



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295491948330?var=593586503777



Along with the plugs also purchased and tap & die set.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134268411250



I already had a few taps and handles but thought be good to get a set.

3



Used this chart to size the drills needed for the taps.

4



With the alloy mount in the vice i punched a mark for drill on it.

5



Drilling was done in differing sizes, first drill i used was a 4mm HSS

6



Next was 5.5mm drill.

6



Then a 6.5mm finally a 8.5mm.

7



This was to use the M10 x 1.0 plug

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So started the tapping.

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Turning the tap slowly back and forth until the hole was threaded.

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11



Then it was time to try both drain plugs.

12



13



First was the Hexagon plug with copper washer, fitted great.

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Then the Allen key plug with it's Rimlex Sealing.

15



Both types fitted great, so test of the M10 x 1.0 over.

16



The same process for the M12 x 1.5 mark & punch.

17



This time the 6.5mm drill was used from the off.

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​Then the 8.5mm drill.

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Finally the 10mm drill.

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The hole was ready to tap, 12 x 1.5

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22



Again slowly back and forth until the thread was completed.

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24



With the thread now done it was time to try the plugs.

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First the Hexagon plug.

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29



Fitted great once again, now the Allen type plug.

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32



Photo shows both the M12 x 1.5 on the left and the M10 x 1.0 on the right.

33



The same for the Hexagon plugs.

34



Hopefully the drilling of the PTU and tapping will go smoothly waiting on a nice warm day now.

35

I finally got to drill and tap the PTU drain plug on MY 07 TD4 manual.



Previous preparation was taken out on the 5/5/24 by marking the area for the drain plug with a punch, and grinding a nice flat surface for the plug, a Dremel with a fine sander on was used.

1



I also used a 5p coin as a guide for the size plug to use, this had an hole drilled into it so the centre could be found.

2



The tools i had purchased a while before, which where an M10 x 1.0p taper & plug set.

3



A set of different taps and dies.

4



The oil used was Smith & Allan 75w-90.

5



Two types of drain plug an hexagon & an Allen key type.

6



7



Both types M10 x 1.0



I had to wait on a right angled drill i purchased from Ebay to arrive before i could do the job, once arrived i was able to carry out the task on the 15/5-24



First the car was put on the ramps and the under tray removed, six times 13mm bolts.

8



9



The drain plug area was waiting to be drilled.

10



Next quick task was to undo the filler plug, this must always be checked before doing any drilling, you need to be able to open the filler plug.

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For this an aviation long ring spanner was used.

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Next make sure you have your tools for the job close to hand, taps drill etc.

13



First tool was the angled drill with a 6mm drill bit.

14



This was used slowly so not to burst through and do any damage, be ready with your catch bowl/ bucket when the oil starts to flow.

15



Now i really should have followed my own advice above, but the bowl was out of my reach so some oil did flow onto the old bed quilt i had under the car.



So i had to quickly grab my bowl after about 12 minutes the oil had come to just a drip.

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The oil looked quite good condition from 2020 when it was last changed.

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This was placed on my work table next to the new oil waiting to go in, and the measure jug

19



The old oil was poured into the measuring jug.

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About 500ml was in the jug add that to about 200ml which ended up on the old quilt came to about the 700ml, the PTU was left to drain for another 50 minutes.



Next the drill bit was changed over to an 8.5 drill which would be the size ready for tapping.

22



The hole drilled to size.

23



24



Now i needed to tap the hole with the M10-1.0p tap which there were tow of one with chamfer end and one with a square end.

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The chamfered tap was used first slowly back and forth.

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Next the square end is used to make sure the thread starts right away inside the hole.

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This was also turned back and forth a few times, until the tap was fully home on the thread.

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You can still s3ee a little oil coming out.

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​My next task was to see if i could get anymore oil out using a syringe.

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No oil cam out and the drain hole was ready to accept it's new plug.
33

I then fitted the 10mm drain plug with copper washer.

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35



Next i tried the Allen key type plug.

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37



Both fitted great.

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39

I decided to go with the hexagon drain plug with copper washer, the PTU was then filled using my pump with 700ml of oil.

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After filling it the car was started up left to run a little bit and the drainplug checked for leaks.

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Oil used is below.

43.



Around midweek 22nd May i will remove the under tray and check again, another mob done now i have to repeat the task on MY14 SD4 Auto.

Below are some of the items you would need to carry out the above drain plug modification.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134268411250

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134100258609

Drills are from 4mm up to 8.5mm when i do the SD4 i will start with a 4mm jump to 6mm then to the 8.5mm

You could by them single or maybe has a set, i already had a set of drills up to 7mm but bought an 8.5mm from below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350874172814

you can buy these single from anywhere.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352966905605?var=622200155164

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352966905605?var=622200155188

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352966905605?var=622200154952

Oil.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254900243768

Pump.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186373430437

Last edited by Arctic on 20th May 2024 9:19 am. Edited 1 time in total