JeandreDiedericks wrote:

Feedback time!!!

It is Fixed!!! Feels like i have a new car . Thanks to Alex for mentioning the valve inside the filter.

So last night on the way home I drove the living crap out of it to get it nice and hot. Coolant temp was somewhere at 105 degrees celsuis. Which is a bit on the high side. I started with cooling the radiator down till engine temp was in the low 70 degrees. No change to the low power levels at all. Then I went ahead and cooled down the fuel rail with some water and I could instantly notice a difference in the way the car revved up and boosted. Took it for a drive and the power was back to normal for a few minutes. After the low power set back in I went ahead and cooled down the fuel filter with a steady stream of water and the power gradually came back.

Ive got a buddy that lives just around the corner and also has Freelander 2. He had a spare fuel filter for me, which I then fitted to test with. After +- 2 minutes of driving after fitting the fuel filter the power gradually returned and hasn't gone away since. I then unplugged the fuel temperature sensor on the fuel line and immediately it was in this low power mode again. After reading the operation on topix of the fuel temp sensor which mentions that if the fuel gets above 70 degrees it will lower fuel pressure to cool the fuel down, I can only assume that the little thermostat in the fuel filter got stuck open and recirculated too much fuel causing it to overheat. Unfortunately my scan tool cannot read the fuel temp readings.

The car did have a service where i changed the fuel filter while experiencing this problem but I bought the filter from the same place both times.

Bad quality filter? I don't know?

Will I buy a fuel filter from there again? No chance

All I know is my car is fixed and I'm as happy as I could be

alex_pescaru wrote:

It has nothing to do with that electrical connector. That connector is for "water in fuel" stuff.
The filter heating is pure mechanical. That recirculation valve is on the return line, below that "<-" arrow, in the fuel filter housing.
It allows that a portion of the returned fuel, which was heated in the process of compression in the high pressure pump, to be diverted back into the filter in order to raise the temperature of the fuel inside the filter, to prevent waxing in low temperatures.

You can indeed prime the fuel filter with a vacuum pump on the return outlet of the fuel filter.

This is not the recommended way.

Land Rover uses a simple tool consisting of a pump ball with a piece of hose on both sides and a small connector. It is very simple and cheap to make one yourself. Google is your friend.

Use this pump ball tool to suck diesel from the feed line coming from the tank (thick line front left) until it comes out the other end of your tool. Then connect this end to the connector of your new filter and pump until your ball gives a lot of resistance.
Disconnect the tool and connect the fuel feed line instead.

Hihi thanks for advise ,but still facing same problem , the car low power when hot. Is bcoz of the valve ? Do you know How to control it ?

The solution used was (as far as I understand) fitting an original Land Rover or Purflux (=OEM) fuel filter.

dave_oo wrote:

Hihi thanks for advise ,but still facing same problem , the car low power when hot. Is bcoz of the valve ? Do you know How to control it ?

goberson wrote:

The solution used was (as far as I understand) fitting an original Land Rover or Purflux (=OEM) fuel filter.

Nodge68 wrote:

dave_oo wrote:

Hihi thanks for advise ,but still facing same problem , the car low power when hot. Is bcoz of the valve ? Do you know How to control it ?

Fit a genuine LR or OE Purflux fuel filter.