Hi guys I need some advice.

I bought a Freelander 2 last year June. Since I've had it it would lose power when hot. It feels like the turbo isn't boosting. Doing highway driving with air that keeps flowing the power stays normal. Only fault code stored is oxygen sensor value out of range on decellaration. So far I've blanked the EGR and unblanked it since it made no difference. Made sure turbo vanes aren't sticky. Had the turbo reconditioned. Full service. Unplugged various sensors (MAF MAP CAM O2 SENSOR ETC)and drove with and without them. No differences. Replaced Crank sensor but still the problem persists. Made sure gearbox engine and diff modules are on the latest software levels.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Does the freelander have an EGT sensor that can tell it to cut back on fuel?

Regards
Jeandré

Totally off the wall answer but has your Cat collapsed as you have done so much other work and not found the issue. No idea how you would test it. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yeah i forgot to mention I've checked all boost pipes for leaks couldn't find any. Intercooler had 2 tiny leaks so replaced intercooler. Also forgot to mention that its been decatted

Read once auto boxes protect themselves when running too hot so maybe change that oil and ensure system is running cool enough. Mine is a manual but I assume the auto has cooler pipes to a heat exchanger. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thats interesting you mention the auto box thing. Clutches were slipping when i bought it. Had the box reconned and a new valve body fitted. Also when stopping somewhere the radiator fans usually blows for 20-30 seconds? Is that normal?

You will get more heat in South Africa but my rad fan would only cut in if left stationary for a long time in Summer in UK. Your cooling fans should once cutting in run for a reasonable amount of time I would have thought not just do a short burst. May be worth investigating more, a cheap thing to do is backflush the system and put in new coolant and then run with pressure cap off until it reaches operating temp. Cap off helps get rid of any airlocks.

The thermostat may not be open quite enough restricting flow. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Ill have a run in it tomorrow and keep an eye on the temps.

On the way home tonight we had a huge amount of rain with ambient temp at around 16 degrees Celsius. The car performed like nothing is wrong all the way home. A 40km odd trip. It usually starts losing power after about 20-25kms at about 28 degrees celsuis ambient temp, gradually losing more and more power until it gets to a point where it feels like the turbo isn't boosting at all anymore. Running a datalogger does confirm that the boost is way less than normal at the map sensor but the fuel pressure is also lower than normal.

1. Check that you don't have an obstructed air path through radiators.
Sometimes dirt accumulates between the AC radiator and engine radiator reducing the air cooling capacity - hence those 20-30 seconds of additional cooling after power off.

2. Check that you have an original fuel filter. The OE one is made by Purflux (FCS604, I believe).
The filters have a recirculation valve for heating up the fuel when cold. The valve in the non-original ones (non Purflux) tends to stick and the fuel is over-heated by excessive recirculation and the ECU enters into a protected mode.

? Alex, my MY 13 has the wire up to the fuel filter but genuine LR supplied fuel filters have no inserts to control fuel in anyway. So that circuit does nothing. Maybe it’s only on winterised cars ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

It has nothing to do with that electrical connector. That connector is for "water in fuel" stuff.
The filter heating is pure mechanical. That recirculation valve is on the return line, below that "<-" arrow, in the fuel filter housing.
It allows that a portion of the returned fuel, which was heated in the process of compression in the high pressure pump, to be diverted back into the filter in order to raise the temperature of the fuel inside the filter, to prevent waxing in low temperatures.

No water in fuel as there is no connection !

I understand your explanation now but the heating up process is a pure byproduct of the spill off that would take place anyway. Yes a OE quality fuel filter is not that expensive for peace of mind. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hey Jeandré

I am experiencing the same issue. A little background to my situation:

I had the throttle body replaced in 2016. In May 2017, we were travelling down to the coast through Zululand and while overtaking a truck, it kicked up a steel bracket and sent it flying through my intercooler (shattering the plastic housing on the intake side of the intercooler). I did'nt immediately notice the damage, but about 2 months later saw residue buildup on that side. I put in an insurance claim and my insurer replaced the intercooler.

I send my FL in for a service around July 2018, and supplied the parts I purchased in a service kit from a local landy spares shop in Middelburg - OEM Diesel filter included. I regret sending the vehicle in to the service center, but I had no choice since they were the only service center that had the diagnostic computer/software for my vehicle. After driving it for a while I noticed the significant lack of power. I didn't take it back, but began investigating for myself. Got the vehicle on stands and started inspecting. I noticed significant oil and grime buildup on the flexible hose and plastic elbow coming into the bottom of the throttle body. When I wiggled all three hose clamps on the hose and elbow, I saw that they were as loose as loose could be. There was no perforations in the flexible hose. I stripped the hose and the elbow out, gave them a good clean and reinstalled, giving all the hose clamps a good tightening. I took it for a test drive and it was like driving a new car!

My satisfaction was short lived, and when driving the vehicle, especially when hot is like driving a donkey. No power. In reading this thread, I am also at a bit of a loss as to what my problem could be. The car definitely performs better when cold - decent boost etc. The moment its been running for a while, it won't boost and even on a marginal uphill the car is sluggish. Put the foot flat on the accelerator and the autobox changes to a lower gear, revving high but nooo power.

Feedback time!!!

It is Fixed!!! Feels like i have a new car . Thanks to Alex for mentioning the valve inside the filter.

So last night on the way home I drove the living crap out of it to get it nice and hot. Coolant temp was somewhere at 105 degrees celsuis. Which is a bit on the high side. I started with cooling the radiator down till engine temp was in the low 70 degrees. No change to the low power levels at all. Then I went ahead and cooled down the fuel rail with some water and I could instantly notice a difference in the way the car revved up and boosted. Took it for a drive and the power was back to normal for a few minutes. After the low power set back in I went ahead and cooled down the fuel filter with a steady stream of water and the power gradually came back.

Ive got a buddy that lives just around the corner and also has Freelander 2. He had a spare fuel filter for me, which I then fitted to test with. After +- 2 minutes of driving after fitting the fuel filter the power gradually returned and hasn't gone away since. I then unplugged the fuel temperature sensor on the fuel line and immediately it was in this low power mode again. After reading the operation on topix of the fuel temp sensor which mentions that if the fuel gets above 70 degrees it will lower fuel pressure to cool the fuel down, I can only assume that the little thermostat in the fuel filter got stuck open and recirculated too much fuel causing it to overheat. Unfortunately my scan tool cannot read the fuel temp readings.

The car did have a service where i changed the fuel filter while experiencing this problem but I bought the filter from the same place both times.

Bad quality filter? I don't know?

Will I buy a fuel filter from there again? No chance

All I know is my car is fixed and I'm as happy as I could be

Glad that I could help...
In the future, better stick with Purflux ones. I, personally, never had a problem with them.
You recognize them as they have the name stamped in relief like in the picture below.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Definitely make sure you have an original Land Rover fuel filter fitted, not a pattern part. Had my Freelander serviced and about 6 weeks later started to lose power when it was hot, just like limp mode but no warning lights.

Local independent specialist changed fuel filter for an original part and its now fine.

Evidently its a common problem