All done. Piece of cake doing it by removing the lower pipe from the auto box. That’s all the fluids including haldex off and cleaned so I can move on to air intake hoses now. Thanks for the advice.

@ Shiggsy & Chips
Thanks for the clarification.  Jules

shiggsy & Chips...sounds like I am being served up for dinner.  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Long-time stalker, first-time poster here. I appreciate all the quirks about this vehicle I've been able to learn from you all so far.

My question is: I'm having a terrible time getting to the fill plug on this thing, and when I can, it feels as though it's already been stripped in the past! (most likely by me ). This has made me consider filling this box from the drain plug with a manual fluid pump and the level plug instead. From what I understand with the rather unique structure of the level and drain plugs, this should work, no?

First purchase a replacement fill plug. With a small sharp chisel judiciously tap the plug anti clockwise to loosen it.

Luckily, I already have a replacement fill plug and washer on hand because I thought this issue might come up. In the event the chisel and other methods for getting off the fill plug don't work, would the idea of filling from the bottom work, in your opinion?

I think that would work, stick a small (clean) tube up there and pump away.

Since the fluid settles in the pan when not running, the last quart+ will need to be added with the engine running, after letting the fluid reach the specified temp.

Verify the temp is still correct after topping off... adding cold fluid will reduce it. May need to let it run for a while to get the temp back up. If it's too cold, any excess fluid will drain out as it warms up and the fluid expands.

Thanks for the tips. I’ll just have to remind myself how much I love this vehicle every time I spill scorching hot ATF on myself this weekend.

Just out of curiosity: ATF change on 2014 SD4, 82,000 miles.

I have just completed the dump and fill method but when draining the first lot prior to taking out the drain plug, there appears to be excess fluid of round 800ml. Around 3400ml of oil in total which included the first drain.

Does that appear to be right as any video I've watched there appears to be a dribble when levelling. Just don't want to be putting too much in or taking too much out.

Stephen

The 3.4 litres is about right for the first drain if the engine is off. The finished level is determined with the Auto Box Fluid at 60 C with the engine running.

Adding before you do the final check with the drain plug closed move through the gears as in the workshop manual.

Thanks for the tip!

My real concern is adding 3.4 but draining 800 ml out on the final level would leave it a bit short?

I bought the iCarsoft v.3 OBD reader and still getting to grips with it. Thought the transmission temperature was a bit low at 18 degrees but when I put the thermometer on it the was reading 60.
Guess I'll have to read up on it a bit

I will need to read through all this thread, new MY 14 Auto will need doing in the very near future so i know my own starting points with the FL2 Orkney Grey.

Hi guys & gals.
I have now changed the oil in my PTU, rear diff, Haldex, engine, so all that is left is the Auto gearbox oil, which one of these below would you use please all comments welcome form you knowledgeable owners.
Millers
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165616935535

Febi
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154614515678

Smith & Allan
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253298011767

Smith & Allan.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302556071897

My14 SD4 2.2 diesel 190

Last edited by Arctic on 8th Dec 2023 9:11 am. Edited 1 time in total

Quote:

I Like Chips wrote:

The return ( the pipe you need to undo ) has the torx bolt below it. whereas the flow pipe has the torx bolt above it. It will be obvious once you have seen them

Do these photos help with the right flow pipe.

1

Drain plug
2

The return pipe from the trans fluid cooler is the lower of the two. That's the one you undo for the fluid change.

Again two points
1 It will pay you to get hold of a new O ring
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr003125-genuine-seal.html

2. Don't over tighten the Torx bolt on reassembly, In other words be careful not to strip the thread. The bolt is metal and the case is soft alloy. Otherwise it's a helicoil job. There is no torque value listed