Which oil from the link below is best for MY14 Auto SD4 all opinions welcome, have any owners used any of the below oils please let me know if you have.

https://www.smithandallan.com/automatic-tr...mith-allan

Artic, I’ve been using Comma MV ATF Plus Fully Synthetic Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Fluid and have been happy so far. It’s probably a tad more expensive than Smith and Allen but easier to get for me.

This is the one you want for a 2014 Auto box. I haven't used it but plan to in the future when I have used up my existing stock of Ravenol

https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smit...fluid-4030

If you are planning on doing the Gibbons Method best get 20 litres, you will need a minimum of around 15 to 16 litres

Quote:

O-B-Wan003 wrote:

Artic, I’ve been using Comma MV ATF Plus Fully Synthetic Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Fluid and have been happy so far. It’s probably a tad more expensive than Smith and Allen but easier to get for me.

This is the one you want for a 2014 Auto box. I haven't used it but plan to in the future when I have used up my existing stock of Ravenol

https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smit...fluid-4030

If you are planning on doing the Gibbons Method best get 20 litres, you will need a minimum of around 15 to 16 litres

JWS 3309 for early models, JWS 3324 for late models (I think the change was 2012 MY, but you need to check) Jules

I've just had my TC rebuilt and put it back in the AT and I've also drained the AT. The TC has no ATF in it at all so is there anything different, or in addition, I need to do when refiling with new ATF? Will the TC just fill up as I add ATF through the filler plug?

Because I lost quite a bit of oil when removing the TC I have no gauge of how much fluid to put back in the AT.

To quickly summarise, just to make sure I've got this right:

- Replace the fill level plug (inner and outer)
- add ATF until it starts to dribble out of the fill level plug
- start the engine and wait until ATF reaches 60 deg
- cycle the transmission selector P > R > N > D > N > R > P pausing for a few seconds on each
- remove inner plug from fill level plug > if ATF comes out all is OK, if not, add more 100ml at a time until it does start to come out

Does that sound about right? 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

The is what I would do initially
I would put in 7 litres ( the initial dry fill amount) if you fill to the level plug initially you will only be putting in around 3 to 3.5 litres.

After the 7 litre fill start the engine it will only take a few seconds for the fluid to be pumped around. that will give you a safe starting fill. If you want to be sure you can then recheck. The temp doesn't have to be at 60deg C for this first check it will be close enough.

Then proceed by the book. Car on level ground, fluid temp at 60 deg C, go through the gears, fill to overflow if necessarily with engine running etc.

Thanks for that info Mr Chips

I ended up putting in 6 litres initially (I panicked a little thinking that it felt like a lot of ATF going in) and then topping up about another 0.5 litre after starting the engine until it started to come out of the level plug.

Then I spotted the steady stream of engine oil coming from the under the engine so I switched off, cried a little and then pulled the engine out again to re-replace the crankshaft seal - the saga continues  2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

Its a bit late now but whenever the gearbox is taken out the gearbox side crankshaft seal should be replaced unless of course it has recently been done but even then for the seal cost I would replace. Wish I could remove the box myself. Anyway you are on it . Keep us informed

Yeah, it was the gearbox side that started to leak. I had replaced the seal before dropping the engine back in, clearly I had cocked it up somehow. I have a new seal coming and this time I'm going to get my mechanic friend to come over and help me fit it just to be absolutely sure I get it right this time. Is there a way to pressure test the seal before re-fitting the engine?

Because the TC had been out as well I also took the opportunity to replace the oil seal on the AT shaft. Thankfully that one seems to be OK. 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

AFAIK there is no way to pre test the seal. Second time lucky.


It may sweeten the job when you reflect on how much you are saving with DIY, as I say wish I could remove a gearbox at home.

I'm really, really hoping that the second time around all is well.

I've never removed the gearbox from a car but I have to say that removing the engine was much less of a ball-ache than I expected and I've never taken an engine out before either! When I had to pull the engine out for the second time I did it in about 4 hours single-handed.

I assume that if you were taking out just the gearbox it would have to drop out through the bottom of the engine bay and therefore you would really want the car on a lift. I appreciate that it's no small undertaking but with the engine out lifting the gearbox out looks like a pretty straightforward job and all you would need is an engine crane for ~£150 (assuming you've got somewhere pretty flat to work). 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

This has been posted before it's a Manual box but makes compulsive viewing

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Steve D wrote:

Did mine in my Evoque a few weeks ago at 54k. I did 6 'dump and fills' and used 20 litres of fluid before it looked decent.

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jules wrote:

I replaced the PTU oil and autobox fluid this weekend. Wont need to do that again for a few years, hopefully.
As it was nice weather I did it outside. Unfortunately the hydraulic ramps on the farm next door are out of action for a while so had to use my own gear.

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The bits of wood are used to get modern cars onto the fixed ramps. I just shoved them in as an extra stop.