As the subject line suggests, we have an issue with our 2011 model freelander.
The rear door has only been able to be opened from the inside, ie outside door handle not opening the door.
It went for a mot test and I’m not sure if they turned on the child lock so we now cannot open the door.
Help!! Any advice or tips please. Al C

IIRC this has been covered in a thread a while back.
I think it was quite a problem because you need to remove the door card (which is extremely difficult with the rear door closed) to get at the lock mechanism. Jules

Have you tried pressing the open button twice ? Try it on the remote and the dash switch.

Assuming its the rear passenger door if it cannot be opened from the outside it should not have passed a MOT ! the child lock would prevent it opening from the inside. remove the door card and look to see if anything has become disconnected? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Last edited by Rommel on 2nd Sep 2023 7:24 am. Edited 1 time in total

It was on the to do list (repairing being able to open the door from the outside) I think the mot tester put the child lock on.
So need to remove door panel with door in the closed position.
Checked other posts for advice. Al C

It’s an indication that the door module has failed if, when you lock the car with the remote fob, the indicators do not flash. I suspect that it wasn’t the MOT tester applying the child lock but simply the failure of the module.

So is it possible to remove the door card without the door being open? Al C

The child lock will only stop the door opening from the INSIDE which is why its a child lock. can you open the door at all? if not its unlikely to be able to remove the door card with it closed there was another thread on here a while ago from someone who had the same issue and found a fix do a search.


https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38045.html 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Before butchering your door... As with most things on this vehicle it is always worth trying a hard reset of the electrics first. I don't think there is an ECM on my one which hasn't thrown a wobbly at some point! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Have a read of this thread from Landyzone.

It includes some very useful input from 'Nodge68' (described as a 'Well-Known Member), so is well worth a read.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hel...ed.378730/ FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Took about 3 hours was a bit awkward, I used the powerfuluk method ( by removing door handle)
Most difficult part was not being able to open the door bottom screw was a 😭 Al C