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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 
Help! 2013 TD4 won’t start after running out of fuel.

Got stranded on the motorway the other day and was taken to a local Land Rover specialist.
Problem was a tear on the multi belt smashing of the cranck sensor connector.
So, the Land Rover specialist replaced the sensor and the belt and 380€ later I was on my way again.

This Tuesday evening, almost home, I get a Reduced Engine Performance coming up. Reached my driveway without any other issue, switched the ignition off and went to bed.

Yesterday, I tried to start the car but no luck. Engine spins normally on the starter but I get the impression that no fuel is delivered. Connected my ThinkDiag and a low common rail pressure DTC is shown. Since I changed the fuel filter a few weeks ago, I expected this as a possible culprit. Had the old one still on the workbench and switched them and tried to prime the way I have successfully done before (vacuum pump on the return) but this time without succes. Air kept coming out, so there must be a leak somewhere. Decided to work my way upwards from the tank and found the fuel line being damaged, all the way through, by the crack pulley.

Seemed an easy fix. Have Gates hose connectors and put one on the damaged location and tested: airtight and plenty of diesel supply now. Primed from the return side of the fuel filter until a steady flow of fuel without air came out. Tried to start, no succes. Primed the pipes between the common rail and injectors. Tried to start, no succes. Checked for DTC’s: nothing. Erased the common rail low pressure from the day before. Tried again, no success.
Got the official prime tool from a Land Rover workshop. Ball was hard straight away. No air is seen in the fuel lines between the filter and the pump, no air in the return lines from the injectors or common rail. Tried to start multiple times but absolutely no life in the engine. Tried with brake cleaner and the engine comes to life only as long as it is fed brake cleaner. Tried to pull start behind another car around the block: nothing.
Blocked the egr-connection, no change.

On starting I have about 600 bar of common rail pressure and a crank speed. So I suspect the injectors no to open. What can be the reason? Anything that I am missing?

Please shoot, all input much appreciated.
Mark/Goberson

Post #435166 24th Aug 2023 7:32 pm
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

Sorry, it’s a 2011/2012 MY, not 2013.

Post #435168 24th Aug 2023 7:41 pm
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
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United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

That was an expensive belt and sensor! Did that include the recovery charge as well?
It does sound like the injectors are not firing if there is fuel up to them and it runs on easy start. Is there a specific fuse or relay to control the injectors? Was it a genuine crank sensor fitted? Someone more technically minded will doubtless know the issue immediately.
Drop alex_pescaru a pm. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

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Post #435172 24th Aug 2023 8:38 pm
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

Thanks for your reply!
Yes indeed this so called specialist took advantage of the situation and no, recovery was covered by my insurance.
But if this so called Land Rover specialist would have put the fuel lines back in their clips after changing the belt and sensor, I wouldn’t be in trouble now again.
The sensor used is a Bosch, probably OEM equivalent. When the sensor fails, it pulls a DTC straight away. Furthermore it gives a logical return on rpm while starting on my data logger (thinkdiag).

Post #435173 24th Aug 2023 8:53 pm
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

I have sent alex_pescaru a pm as you suggested.

Post #435196 25th Aug 2023 12:21 pm
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

My car is still at the workshop and doesn’t start. Already more than a month.

Sofar a new crankshaft sensor, butterfly valve, fuel filter, Commonrail with pressure sensor and valve have been fitted. All sensors tested. The fuel pump has been send off to a Bosch service center to be checked and is in good condition. Fuel system is bled all the way through. High pressure sprays out of the injector linkages when loosened. Cranks at >250rpm. But no start, not a sign of life…

While digging further with my obd2 reader, I noticed “Power supply system start inhibit” being active (last line on image). Could this be the reason and what triggers this?

Post #435942 27th Sep 2023 8:39 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

I may have missed it in your comments but have you had all the injectors tested.

My fuel rail pressure at tick over when last tested was 430 bar.

Have a look at this link just wondering if cracking open the fuel lines has anything to do with it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-180...tors-1.pdf

Post #435944 28th Sep 2023 5:24 am
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

Injectors are tested.
Fuel pressure is 500-600 bar according to SDD.
When you change the fuel rail and pump, you need to open the injector feed lines to prime.

Post #435973 29th Sep 2023 12:30 pm
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
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United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

There's no need to open the injector lines as A, it's extremely dangerous and B, the lines are fit once units, which require replacement after they've been disconnected. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
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Post #435976 29th Sep 2023 1:56 pm
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goberson



Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Den Bosch
Posts: 12

Netherlands 

Thanks for this info!

I understood from information I found on these forums and a YouTube instruction from Powerful UK that opening the fuel lines to the injectors was a requirement to prime the system after a pump or rail change.

To me, it sounded indeed rather strange with a rail pressure of 500+ bar at cranking.

I will not do it again.

Post #435995 1st Oct 2023 4:33 pm
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