Can you cut a slot in the head with a Dremel etc. I had to do that to remove a roof rack bolt which snapped off. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

There is only about 5 mm of metal to drill into so not breaking thru will be very challenging.

Good luck

Paul


PS the Dremel slot may be the way to go (good suggestion LiteWater). As for heating with a torch be careful not to get too hot transmission fluid will burn if you get it hot enough.

Some great info there Paul, many thanks.




I had a look today and the fill plug is circled in red. I can't get anything on it as it's set lower than the lump outlined in green. I think that the idea of welding a nut to the top of the plug is probably the way to go though I'm not looking forward to doing it.

I was wondering if the lump outlined in green is (easily) removable to give easier access to the plug? 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

Yes it is removable. I removed mine when I was investigating coolant leaks.


For information only, it wasn't the module that caused the leak, it was the thermostat housing

CaptainBarnacles wrote:

Some great info there Paul, many thanks.




I had a look today and the fill plug is circled in red. I can't get anything on it as it's set lower than the lump outlined in green. I think that the idea of welding a nut to the top of the plug is probably the way to go though I'm not looking forward to doing it.

I was wondering if the lump outlined in green is (easily) removable to give easier access to the plug?

Yeah, those filler plug fairy's come out at night and torque up those bolts NO MATTER HOW GENTLE you are with them. It's crazy.

And I've found that shudder fix cured my shuddering nicely for the last 2 years (needed 2 tubes). Might be a band-aid, sure, but it was a cost i'm happy to have kicked down the road to the point where it if died tomorrow i'd be able to find the coin to fix it. (I did do multiple fluid changes to the first to get it clean, with no improvement, THEN added the shudder fix.... smooth sailing since).

Lightwater wrote:

Can you cut a slot in the head with a Dremel etc. I had to do that to remove a roof rack bolt which snapped off.

Bobupndown wrote:

CaptainBarnacles wrote:

Some great info there Paul, many thanks.




I had a look today and the fill plug is circled in red. I can't get anything on it as it's set lower than the lump outlined in green. I think that the idea of welding a nut to the top of the plug is probably the way to go though I'm not looking forward to doing it.

I was wondering if the lump outlined in green is (easily) removable to give easier access to the plug?

The flat plug looks like it will accommodate a pretty big nut welded on. I'd be confident that it will come out easily enough.

Yeah, I think that's the way I'm going to go with it. Presumably bigger is better (within reason!) when it comes to nut size?  2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto

Grue wrote:

Yeah, those filler plug fairy's come out at night and torque up those bolts NO MATTER HOW GENTLE you are with them. It's crazy.

And I've found that shudder fix cured my shuddering nicely for the last 2 years (needed 2 tubes). Might be a band-aid, sure, but it was a cost i'm happy to have kicked down the road to the point where it if died tomorrow i'd be able to find the coin to fix it. (I did do multiple fluid changes to the first to get it clean, with no improvement, THEN added the shudder fix.... smooth sailing since).

Is it possible to get a small drill in there.

If so, drill 2 holes through a small metal block & a slot in the back for drive.

Line up small block & drill a few mm into flange. Put a pin in that hole, back end of drill bit will do.

Drill through second hole in block into flange on opposite side. Use another drill bit, back end for pin.

Then you have a key which you can then drive the back of. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Do you have access to an air chisel? A correctly placed air chisel bit will have it off in a few seconds.
Even a chisel and hammer should do it, but an air chisel will be faster. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

CaptainBarnacles wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

CaptainBarnacles wrote:

Some great info there Paul, many thanks.




I had a look today and the fill plug is circled in red. I can't get anything on it as it's set lower than the lump outlined in green. I think that the idea of welding a nut to the top of the plug is probably the way to go though I'm not looking forward to doing it.

I was wondering if the lump outlined in green is (easily) removable to give easier access to the plug?

The flat plug looks like it will accommodate a pretty big nut welded on. I'd be confident that it will come out easily enough.

Yeah, I think that's the way I'm going to go with it. Presumably bigger is better (within reason!) when it comes to nut size?

I'd try cutting a small notch in the edge so you can seat an air chisel. Heat the surrounding metal gently with a torch, then try to impact chisel it loose. As was mentioned you can try a hammer and chisel, plus elbow grease.

If that doesn't work, weld a big hex nut on. Bigger is better up to the outer diameter of the flange on the torx nut... the inner circumference of the hex nut is the linear length of the weld seam you'll achieve. Longer seam = stronger hold. Prep both surfaces before welding. I might try an impact wrench once you get the nut welded on.

Remove that module if you need room.

Again heat the area around the nut before you try, aluminum expands more than steel.

Did you ever get the filler plug out, if so which method did you use. Sharing this information may help others in the future.

Since I last posted in this thread there have been a few developments

Firstly, I ordered a replacement fill plug and it took around 6 weeks to arrive which was ok as there was no great hurry. Then a few weeks ago my engine stopped mysteriously and to cut a long story short it was a valve that had dropped down into the cylinder and mangled the bore. After a lot of deliberation I decided to replace the engine and while the engine is out I've also had the TC rebuilt.

As I'm getting ready to start reassembling everything I knew I was going to have to top up the ATF so the fill cap had to come off. I cleaned it up, protected the area with wet rags and welded a big nut to it. I was all set with my breaker bar but it wasn't needed as I could have almost undone the nut with my fingers. Clearly the heat had broken the hold on it.

A big thanks to all who contributed to this. I would have probably preferred to have gone the air chisel route but as I don't have a compressor let alone an air chisel that wasn't an option. Hopefully the heat from the welding hasn't had any other consequences.

 2010 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto