Cheers for that. That'll be a pump off job then I suppose. I just wanted to make sure I'd ticked off all potential boxes before going down that route. The problem with sensors and codes I suppose. They give you a steer but you can end up chasing your tail trying to get to the actual problem.
I'm not familiar with the internals of the fuel rail but it threw me how pressurised fuel came out of the run off pipe but none from the metal pipes to the injectors?
So glad my other car is an early LR90 with 2.25 petrol engine in it. Very basic, nuts and bolts job. Only electrics are the ignition and lights!!!!! 😁

Seconded for that observation above.
You might be getting an intermittent amount of drive to the pump to register something on your tests, but ultimately slipping when the pressure builds.

Feeling your pain. Been chasing the P0087 code for a couple of years now.

Recently bought a new fuel rail pressure sensor to eliminate that possibility. Car wouldn't start with the new sensor in. Threw P0087 and also a too high code - but not P0088.

Old sensor in - car started. New sensor in - no start. Old sensor is now back in and the new one will be winging it's way back to the UK for a refund. .

Hope we get it solved soon. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Hi all
Apologies for the delay in getting back on this one. I've only just found time to tackle it
So, I fitted the new genuine filter and have primed it. This time it seemed to push through ok and I had fuel going in and out of the system. However, still no joy in starting.
So I bit the bullet and took the fuel pump off. That bloody electric connector at the bottom was the worst but to get off with my arthritic fingers! Anyway, nothing broken. Fuel pump key ok. Camshaft ok.
So, how can I check if the pump is faulty? Could it be the regulator where the electrical connection is? What should I now be looking at?

I've just hand rotated the engine just to make sure the camshaft is rotating at the pump end and it is so hopefully no snap in the middle somewhere.

PK1968 wrote:

I'm not sure what make it was tbf but I doubt it's genuine Land Rover as it was only about £20 and I imagine Genuine parts will be much more expensive.

There are second hand fuel filters on the bay of thieves for £20 or more.
I can't imagine anyone would be dim enough to buy a second hand filter though.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

It definitely wasn't second hand. Even I'm not that dim!!!! Honest!¡!!! 😳

PK1968 wrote:

I've just hand rotated the engine just to make sure the camshaft is rotating at the pump end and it is so hopefully no snap in the middle somewhere.

Blimey! Hope not! One thing after another with these things!!!
I've ordered a fuel regulator so see if that does anything. After that I really don't know!

I would think the regulator is fine. Have you replaced the crank sensor? What were the codes that were cleared? Simply clearing codes isn't recommended, as it erases a record leading up to a fault, so your working blind. Codes stored in the ECM don't stop it working, only a fault does that. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I didn't see the codes before they were cleared unfortunately. The only codes that have flicked up since have been the Poo87 and P0088 codes.
Forgive me for being a bit dumb when it comes the the electrics but it's all a bit of a dark art to me. Would a bad crank sensor stop fuel getting to the rail? Is there anything else that will cut the fuel off from the rail.
Like I said, I can hand prime the system but fuel doesn't seem to be getting to the rail at all.

Just done some quick research and the answer seems to be yes! A crank sensor can shut down fuel. So can a faulty cam sensor so could also be looking at either of those!!!!
All well and good these bleedin electrics but they can send you off on a complete tangent, even with a decent code reader!
My 40 year old 2.25 Petrol Landy has 2 sensors (Water and Oil Temp) and has totally bailed me out whilst my Freelander has been off the road now for over 3 months with various issues!!!! Bloody technology!!!!!!! 😉

PK1968 wrote:

I didn't see the codes before they were cleared unfortunately. The only codes that have flicked up since have been the Poo87 and P0088 codes.
Forgive me for being a bit dumb when it comes the the electrics but it's all a bit of a dark art to me. Would a bad crank sensor stop fuel getting to the rail? Is there anything else that will cut the fuel off from the rail.
Like I said, I can hand prime the system but fuel doesn't seem to be getting to the rail at all.

That's a shame. I wish uniformed roadside assistance people wouldn't just erase codes, it loses vital information, and codes being stored don't stop the engine running.

As to the crank sensor, In a couple of words, yes it can. If the ECM doesn't see timing information from either the crank sensor or cam sensor, then the ECM doesn't necessarily close the pressure control valve, so little pressure will be generated in the rail. I'm not 100% up on the exact specifics of the Freelander 2 ECM, but as a general rule, rail pressure is inhibited unless there's valid engine timing signals available.

With faults like these, I start with the simple but common stuff first, the crank sensor falling into that category. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi
Got the hew regulator today. Tested both with a battery. The old one clocked but it sounded a little weak. The new sounded fine so fitted it. Put everything back together, re-primed the system and........no change!
I remembered I'd bought a crank sensor adt year when I had a problem with the car but never used it as that turned out to be a bad battery. So fitted new sensor and.......no change!
Re-checked with the code reader and have the following codes:
P0088 - Fuel Rail pressure too high.
P02E1 - Diesel Air Intake - Performance
There's no fuel at the rail at all. If I loosen any of the connectors after cranking there's nothing.
I'm really lost with this now.

Just another point and not sure if it's relevent. When I had the pump off, if I turned the pump over fuel easily came out of whee the inflow and return hoses connect to. However, where the solid pipe to the fuel rail connects barely a trickle came out, if that. I'm not sure how the internals of it work but is that how it's supposed to be?