Amongst the short list of issues i have with the FL2, was out driving the other day when she went into limp mode. Having my cheap code reader in the car i plugged her in expecting the 02 sensor again, but no it was P0047 Turbo pressure solendoid voltage low.
I cleared the fault but it went straight back into restrictive mode and she would barely rev to 2000rpm with a muffled wurring warbling sound as the revs come back down.

Im hoping its just the pressure boost pipe and not the actual turbo actuator

I had something similar, complete with wuffing sound, last year.

See my reply to this P0047 post.

As far as I can tell, after confirming the fault, the garage cleared the fault by some kind of procedure that checked and exercised the Turbo.

- it been OK since (touch wood!)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38618.html?highlight=turbo FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I dont know what the answer is this specific problem, but I will say the turbo vanes can get stuck or develop limited movement. They can be freed up my manually moving the vane lever but it MUST be disconnected from the electronic actuator or you will break the internal mechanism.
There is a section all about about freeing up the turbo vanes in the JLR manual. Jules

I think I'm suffering turbo issues, too, at the moment. Symptoms are what I think might be turbo flutter, but sounds more like a squelch to me. Noise is accompanied by a momentary loss of power and is coming from front right, just in front of the driver's seat. Mainly in 2nd and 3rd, both on lifting off the power and going up through the revs at about 1800rpm. No engine codes on the GAP IID Tool. I've replaced the usual three flexible hoses, as I was also getting a bit of a turbo whistle at times (original hoses at 190,000 miles, so they were probably due for a change!) The whistle is gone, but the squelch remains. No noise in higher gears if I let the revs build slowly, but on fast acceleration it happens at about 2500 revs. It is worse when the engine is hot and I wonder if perhaps it is something like a MAF sensor that is not sending quite the right info. Battery is needing replaced, and I know that all the ECMs and sensors are sensitive to voltage, so perhaps the next move should be to rule out the battery? I can induce "reduced performance" message if I hold it at 3,000rpm in fourth up a gradient - but again, this does not result in any codes showing.

(The hose replacement was a learning curve and a lengthier process than it should have been - I bought a cheap set of hoses and have now learned my lesson! Given the age of the vehicle, the amount of salt on the roads here and the fact that the front end has not been off the bodywork in the last 120,000 miles, there was no way that the bumper was going to come off without drilling out the fixings, but I found that the front hoses are surprisingly accessible from above, if you remove the fan assembly. Equally, the short one at the back of the engine seemed as easy to access from the wheel arch, rather than from underneath). 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

"... but I found that the front hoses are surprisingly accessible from above, if you remove the fan assembly. Equally, the short one at the back of the engine seemed as easy to access from the wheel arch, rather than from underneath"

Useful to know - thanks  Jules

...of course a lot depends on how the jubilee clips are aligned! Perhaps I got lucky. You also have to cut the plastic retaining clamp for the front bottom hose, as the only way to access the clip for it is from underneath.

It probably also helps that I've got long arms!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Just to update that (having replaced the turbo hoses, cleaned the throttle body, installed a new battery and replaced the crankshaft position sensor), I've finally noticed the dangling actuator linkage!

Slipping the actuator back into position has cured the fault, but I will now need to track down a suitable circlip to stop it from coming back off! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

jules wrote:

"... but I found that the front hoses are surprisingly accessible from above, if you remove the fan assembly. Equally, the short one at the back of the engine seemed as easy to access from the wheel arch, rather than from underneath"

Useful to know - thanks

If the intercooler hose clips are on the underside of the hoses, the bumper has to come off, as there's absolutely zero room to get at them.
However in my experience, the bumper fixings undo relatively easily, often taking no more than 30 minutes to remove the bumper.

Click image to enlarge

The clip was impossible for my large hands to access from above, hence the need to remove the bumper.

Click image to enlarge

 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Worms wrote:

Just to update that (having replaced the turbo hoses, cleaned the throttle body, installed a new battery and replaced the crankshaft position sensor), I've finally noticed the dangling actuator linkage!

Slipping the actuator back into position has cured the fault, but I will now need to track down a suitable circlip to stop it from coming back off!

Worms wrote:

Just to update that (having replaced the turbo hoses, cleaned the throttle body, installed a new battery and replaced the crankshaft position sensor), I've finally noticed the dangling actuator linkage!

Slipping the actuator back into position has cured the fault, but I will now need to track down a suitable circlip to stop it from coming back off!

@jules, what usually happens is that one of the “C” clips break & the link just disconnects itself. That’s what happened to mine several years ago. I even found the broken bits lying in the chassis!

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35091.html (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Yes, I'm guessing a thin steel clip and 192,000 miles of salty roads is not a good combination! Once the clip has gone, I suppose it must be simply a matter of time before it works its way loose.

In my case I had just driven 100 miles, stopped in a car park and got a kangaroo start, when I tried to leave. I assumed it was a fuel filter issue, as the noise I was getting seemed similar to what you get when you change the fuel filter and there is that little bit of air still in the fuel-return line before it all sucks back to the tank.

It's only in the last couple of days that I have managed to induce an error code, and that was the same P0234 Turbo overboost that Badger reported. I could only get that code if I held it at 3,000 rpm for a prolonged period - for those familiar with the A9 that was southbound on Drumossie Brae coming out of Inverness and northbound on Cairnie Brae coming back towards Perth, neither of which are a lot of fun once you are in reduced performance mode!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Nodge,

In my case it's probably a matter of salt exposure tipping the balance against removing the retaining screws along the bottom of the bumper and the two in the wheel arches - if I had drilled them out it would have taken much longer and I would have needed to have new screws and clips to get it all back together. Not a great pic, but you can hopefully see what I was up against.




Also I routinely take the fan assembly out to access the filter at oil changes, so that operation takes me less than five minutes.

My jubilee clip was probably similar to the one in your picture, but I was able to get hands and a 7mm ring spanner on to it.

The only difficulty was the nylon retaining ring, which I simply removed with a hack-saw.

Having done it all once, I actually had to do it again as the replacement hose kit had a stupidly flimsy black plastic vertical pipe, which had creased when I tightened the jubilee clip, allowing blow-by at the top end. The original version of this pipe had strengthening rings to prevent this, so I replaced the new one with the old one after a couple of days. Second time around it only took me about 20mins to get the whole thing off and replaced. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

If you can't find one the Circlip part code is LR008722

Thanks for that part number. I actually took the approach mentioned on other threads on this and bought one of the "120 assorted e-clips for £7.99" packs on Amazon with next day delivery. But at a later date, I might get back to this and replace it with the LR part. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel