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Home > Technical > P0047 code Turbo solendoid low |
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IanMetro Member Since: 11 Sep 2017 Location: Somerset BS21 Posts: 3109 |
I had something similar, complete with wuffing sound, last year.
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4th Jun 2023 7:05 pm |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 4954 |
I dont know what the answer is this specific problem, but I will say the turbo vanes can get stuck or develop limited movement. They can be freed up my manually moving the vane lever but it MUST be disconnected from the electronic actuator or you will break the internal mechanism.
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5th Jun 2023 9:59 am |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
I think I'm suffering turbo issues, too, at the moment. Symptoms are what I think might be turbo flutter, but sounds more like a squelch to me. Noise is accompanied by a momentary loss of power and is coming from front right, just in front of the driver's seat. Mainly in 2nd and 3rd, both on lifting off the power and going up through the revs at about 1800rpm. No engine codes on the GAP IID Tool. I've replaced the usual three flexible hoses, as I was also getting a bit of a turbo whistle at times (original hoses at 190,000 miles, so they were probably due for a change!) The whistle is gone, but the squelch remains. No noise in higher gears if I let the revs build slowly, but on fast acceleration it happens at about 2500 revs. It is worse when the engine is hot and I wonder if perhaps it is something like a MAF sensor that is not sending quite the right info. Battery is needing replaced, and I know that all the ECMs and sensors are sensitive to voltage, so perhaps the next move should be to rule out the battery? I can induce "reduced performance" message if I hold it at 3,000rpm in fourth up a gradient - but again, this does not result in any codes showing.
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5th Jun 2023 11:55 am |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 4954 |
"... but I found that the front hoses are surprisingly accessible from above, if you remove the fan assembly. Equally, the short one at the back of the engine seemed as easy to access from the wheel arch, rather than from underneath"
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5th Jun 2023 1:52 pm |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
...of course a lot depends on how the jubilee clips are aligned! Perhaps I got lucky. You also have to cut the plastic retaining clamp for the front bottom hose, as the only way to access the clip for it is from underneath.
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5th Jun 2023 2:10 pm |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
Just to update that (having replaced the turbo hoses, cleaned the throttle body, installed a new battery and replaced the crankshaft position sensor), I've finally noticed the dangling actuator linkage!
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8th Jun 2023 6:11 pm |
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Nodge68 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Newquay Posts: 2071 |
If the intercooler hose clips are on the underside of the hoses, the bumper has to come off, as there's absolutely zero room to get at them. However in my experience, the bumper fixings undo relatively easily, often taking no more than 30 minutes to remove the bumper.
The clip was impossible for my large hands to access from above, hence the need to remove the bumper.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone. Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver. 1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project. |
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8th Jun 2023 7:27 pm |
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IanMetro Member Since: 11 Sep 2017 Location: Somerset BS21 Posts: 3109 |
Well Spotted - Thanks for update. It proves my theory that the cause of most faults is simple, but finding them can be very complicated. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011) FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015) Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History (Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?) |
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8th Jun 2023 10:11 pm |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 4954 |
Why/how did it come apart ? Jules |
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9th Jun 2023 7:32 am |
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Badger51 Member Since: 01 Mar 2014 Location: Coffs Harbour Posts: 959 |
@jules, what usually happens is that one of the “C” clips break & the link just disconnects itself. That’s what happened to mine several years ago. I even found the broken bits lying in the chassis!
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9th Jun 2023 8:15 am |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
Yes, I'm guessing a thin steel clip and 192,000 miles of salty roads is not a good combination! Once the clip has gone, I suppose it must be simply a matter of time before it works its way loose.
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9th Jun 2023 8:36 am |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
Nodge,
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9th Jun 2023 9:06 am |
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1529 |
If you can't find one the Circlip part code is LR008722 |
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9th Jun 2023 8:11 pm |
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Worms Member Since: 31 Oct 2017 Location: Highlands Posts: 635 |
Thanks for that part number. I actually took the approach mentioned on other threads on this and bought one of the "120 assorted e-clips for £7.99" packs on Amazon with next day delivery. But at a later date, I might get back to this and replace it with the LR part. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
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10th Jun 2023 5:20 am |
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