No do you have a link for the yellow led parts?

I used these from eBay. (for the LEDs)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-60mm-120mm-C...:rk:1:pf:0

I used these from eBay. (for the diffuser)



The seller does not seem to stock them currently. Have a look [generally] on eBay for them.

Good Luck

.

Nice one thank you

Mpjg wrote:

I just installed 2 light bars into the lower grill. Easy to do. Only pain in the backside was to decide how to run the wires. The light bars sit low but i have pointed them upwards a bit so they light up well. With being about 2700lm, it definitely beats just turning the fog lights on.

My front fog light switch. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Great - that looks really professional!
Thanks. FL2 SD4 XS 2013 Orkney Grey

Hi, I like your conversion but I have a bar with a bracket that fits behind the numberplate. I am planning to drill the bumper and go as far as the metal cross member to find a solid mounting. Question is how far back - behind the bumper - is the crossmember and are there any wires, tubes etc that could be in the way. I plan to fit rivnuts to secure the bracket and can make up an ally spacer on the lathe so the bumper does not distort. I also plan to wire the bar into the headlight main beam - via a relay - with a switch so that I can have turn the bar off if not needed. Where do I take the main beam sensor take off from. My car is a very late 2014 production SE Tech with the H7 bulbs. In previous vehicles I have just taken this off the main beam wire of one of the head lights but these don’t have a 2 filament bulb?
Thanks.

Personally I'd not be drilling holes in a £10k vehicle.
However that's up to you.

You can take a main beam feed off a main beam bulb, if you have inner main beam lights.
However if you don't and you have H8 bulbs with shutters, you'll need to use the shutter feed to trigger a relay. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks for the reply. The holes would be covered by the numberplate so will never be seen and I don’t think to fit the bracket with big self tappers would be engineeringly sound and the bar would flutter across bumps etc, so that’s why I want to bolt it on to something strong.
I thought about using the sensor wire to trigger/switch the relay but have seen that it could give problems with something called an FET - what ever that is? I can see me ending up just wIreing it via a flick switch in the cab as the last thing I want to do is cause other Problems. Mechanical things I can generally sort out - electrics are the ‘dark arts’ to me!

FET is short for field effect transistor. They are in effect, solid state fuses. They stop conducting in an over current state and reset when the condition is corrected and power cycled.

The FETs (Field Effect Transistors) are the power switches used in modern vehicles instead of relays. They work an a similar fashion to a relay, only they are smaller, solid state and much faster switching than a relay, oh and are soldered to the circuit board in the CJB. They are also very low resistance compared to a relay, and so can be used to monitor current flowing in the circuit they are switching, eliminating the need for fuses, as well as monitoring bulbs in the circuit, although this ability isn't utilised in the Freelander 2.
They are susceptible to damage from back EMF from a relay coil on the circuit, but as the shutter in a headlamp is a coil, the FET driving it should be protected against back EMF. A simple diode fitted across the relay coil would give additional insurance against back EMF if wished though. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi Norge, thanks for the reply. As I said in my earlier post ‘ electrics are a dark art to me’ ! I know that a diode is but does this diode have a ‘rating’ or will just any diode do I can get one off eBay or Amazon. And where do you fit it? Does it go between terminals on the relay or between one of the relay terminals and earth? I haven’t a clue on these things! 😕😩🤓. Does anyone have a photo of one one fitted?

A diode used as in a reverse blocking diode configuration is easy.
You need to make sure the diode used has a reverse voltage threshold higher than the reverse voltage you're wanting to quash, which for a relay coil can approach 100 Volts. So a 1N1003 diode would work just fine, but you could use any of the following, 1N4004, 1N4005, 1N4006 or 1N4007, so just choose the cheapest of those.
It's wired across the relay coil, with the cathode band on the positive supply side. This will then clamp the voltage generated in the coil when the power is removed. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.