No just sucked out the fluid. We only do 6 to 7 thousand miles a year tops. If it’s a problem later I will ask the mechanic but they are very anti replacing things that is working ok, and that seems to be most mechanic. Only ones that seem to be keen on using more new bits are a main dealer, and if we was able to use them we would not be driving an old freelander. It’s just a matter of doing the best I can.

For the £18 a replacement reservoir costs, it's cheap insurance. It's possible that the PS pump will be damaged if the filter blocks completely, which will cost many times as much to replace.
Just my opinion of course, but it's based on experience. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I was not moaning about £18 for a new bit, the mechanics never want to do things like that in my experience. They all seem to use the same phrase, let it develop. It’s their favourite saying, you just get used to it. I can’t blame them as nobody wants to work harder then they have to.

Its pretty simple to change, suck the oil out like you have been, remove the filter from the pipes, (pair of pliers to release the clips I think) and put the new resevoir on.

Unfortunately the internal filter can't be seen, but this was mine at 6 years.

[/url] 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Personally, when I use a mechanic I tell them what I want done - perhaps you need to find a new one? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

May be your lucky, but most seem to have enough work with out having to be told what to do, some don’t even want to work on certain motors as they can earn the same money doing easier stuff, which I don’t blame them. A couple I used to know had saying, we work on anything as long as it’s ford and under 6 months old. One of our friends won’t work on diesil motors unless a gun is held to his head as he hates them. He recommended us to get a better motor, could not believe we brought a freelander

There's not much that is easier to change than the PS reservoir. It's literally 10 minutes work, with nothing more than a syringe and a pair of pliers. The syringe to suck the fluid out, and the pliers to remove the constant tension hose clips.
The reservoir isn't even secured with bolts. It just sits in a dovetail bracket, so just lifts straight out, and new one slips back in.

I'm just about to change one on my recently acquired i6, along with a service on everything before I sell it on. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Trouble is I am one of those people whose car clock is only right for 6 months of the year. I don’t have a very good track record on repairing stuff on cars that’s why I use mechanic.

Why don't you just get your Mechanic to do it

Hi Guys.
What power steering fluid are you all using, i have noticed on my recent SD4 2014 that the fluid is a light brown colour.?

I am 99.9% sure it should be green am i correct, that is what i have in my FL2 TD4 2007

Was the power steering fluid changed at any point, also it's hydraulic is it not has opposed to power steering fluid.
1

2

3

I do have a bottle left over from my 2019 PS fluid change, but it seems it has an expiry date on it?
4

To be completely honest when i purchased the PS fluid back then 2019 3 bottles all had different dates.
5

6

I also acquired 3 bottle of the Halfords make below, that is another story at the same time never opened so would they be out of date now?

Click image to enlarge

Ok so just withdrawn some PS fluid from the SD4 Auto diesel 2014 below is what it looks like, i will add these few photos then start another thread as do not want to hijack someone else's thread, unless people think it's best to keep it in one place. ?

1

2

As you can see it's light brown.
3

I have 5 bottle of the green PS fluid which i think is what is supposed to be used.
4

All have a date of from 2017 - 2019

Halfords x 3
5

LR x 2
6

Halfords left, centre SD4, right LR
7

i am a bit reluctant to to use the green fluid at the moment because of the dates any and all opinions welcome.

Also just a driver would you prefer i start my own thread ?

PS decided to take a drive to Halfords, once there i asked a few questions to a chap that seemed knowledgeable he was changing a battery for someone, not that makes him an authority on PS fluid, so told him the story that back in 2019 when i was doing my PS fluid change they sold me the wrong fluid (RED) therefore i had to drain the lot out in the mean time i had ordered Land Rover Fluid.

Halfords then gave me 3 bottle of the green fluid, it has not been opened /used since was the date 2018 on the bottle expiry date or manufactures date he said it's the later, and should be ok if not been opened, if that's the case why does the LR green have an exipry date on it, he could not answer that saying best to ask LR.

Anyways they no longer sell or at least the Halfords near me did not have their own make in now, so purchased some comma green PS fluid.
8

9

Withdraw some green fluid from the MY07 which was LR back in 2019.
10

You can see it still as the green tint to it so looks to be ok but will still change it due to it now being 4yrs old.

The unopened Halfords fluid i will use has the flushing fluid.

All good stuff here - Im flushing the PAS and installing a new reservoir any time soon.

Why does the i6 have a PAS fluid cooler but not the TD4/SD4 ? Just curious. Jules

Quote:

All good stuff here - Im flushing the PAS and installing a new reservoir any time soon.

Why does the i6 have a PAS fluid cooler but not the TD4/SD4 ? Just curious.

One for Nodge i think he has an i6 by the time i had faffed about today it stated to rain so PAS fluid change is now tomorrows job again weather dependent, don't you just love the British weather at least I'm now prepared with all the tools and fluids.

The fluid used should be green. Brown suggests red has been used for topping up, which isn't ideal as they are completely different fluids.

Best option is to flush it out using several changes, until no brown is seen. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Quote:

The fluid used should be green. Brown suggests red has been used for topping up, which isn't ideal as they are completely different fluids.

Best option is to flush it out using several changes, until no brown is seen.

Hi John.
I had chance to do the power steering fluid today and fit the new reservoir, as suggested flushed system through with about 1.5ltrs before final top up.

started by jacking up the FL added axle stands so the wheels where just a couple of inches of the ground.
1

Placed a cover over the front of the car, put all the tools including the new pot on the engine cover.
2

3

The next step was to remove the old reservoir of it's bracket, easy to do just pulls up.
4

5

Put the drain bottle i was using for the old fluid in it's place, so it was easy to suck out the old fluid as i progressed through the change over.
6

Sucked out all the fluid in the old pot even going into the out let pipe a little, so i had no leaks if possible when joining the new pot to the outlet connection.
7

8

It took at least 3 syringe pulls to drain it out.
9

even then there was a little in the bottom that is when i change the tube on the syringe for a thinner one so it went down the outlet into the hose a little.
10

11

With the thinner tube i got the rest out including some out of the hose.
12

Here you can see the pot is now completely empty.
13

14

A bit blurred but i next lowered the clamp clip from the old pot down the hose, using the clamp clip tool i have, pliers would do the same.
15

16

Next step was to connect the new reservoir to the outlet hose, and also use it's yellow stop on the old pot.
17

Make sure the hose is pushed up to the stops on the pot, and the yellow cap it pushed fully home also, you now have the old pot and the new pot next to each other, the new one being a little higher.
18

I then topped up the new reservoir pot, ready to pull thorough the system into the old pot, here i was helped by my good wife turning the steering from full lock to lock, the ignition needs to be on but the engine not started.
19

20

The steering turned and filled the old pot the fluid was removed.
21

This was repeated a few times until i could see nice fresh green fluid was being sucked out of the old pot.
22

23

All the time not allowing the new pot to completely empty.
24

Now you have to make sure the new pot has the fluid removed just so it's inside the hose, this is because you have to swap out the old pot for the new one.

first remove the empty old pot from the inlet hose this is a press clip and pull down joint, no photos sorry but you will see how it fits, all the time make sure you have a cloth under the pot.

Now with the old pot out of the way pull the cap off the new pot to the inlet and joining it to the hose making sure you hear a distinct clipping home of the connection.

Top up the new reservoir between the minimum & maximum mark, clear all the draining bottle syringe and tools out of the engine bay, remove any rags etc sit the reservoir back onto the bracket, start the car and watch the pot for any fluid drop, or air bubbles, top up to max when cold.
25

If all is ok then tidy up, have a coffee get washed up yourself, then take the car for a run, when you get back check the reservoir for leaks and the amount in the pot.
26

Check the fixing connections.
27

keep your eye on it for the next couple of days.