There is no need to remove the pipe at the fluid oil cooler. Do yourself a huge favour and remove the pipe at the auto box.

The pipe you need to undo ( A torx bolt ) is the lower one of the two, that why I call it The Modified Gibbons Method.

A word of caution, the bolt is harder than the auto box itself. Be gentle with it especially putting it back, don't over tighten. otherwise you will have put a helicoil in, how do I know.

Another bit of advice to be on the safe side, get yourself an O ring to replace the existing. LR003125

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/l...aling.html

If you remove the pipe at the oil cooler, the lower one is the output flow. Mine has yellow tabs on it which need to be pushed in before you can pull the connector off. Even removing the headlight to give me better access I still couldn't do it with my fingers, I had to press them in with a screw driver in each hand and lift at the same time. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Thanks both. Just to be clear, are we saying that the lower hose both at the box and the oil cooler is the return pipe and that the LR manual is wrong (as per attached)?
I know some have suggested this but I wasn’t absolutely clear if something had been lost in translation.

Thanks.

The lower of the two pipes going into the Auto Box is the return that's the one you need to use. No need to undo the connection on the Fluid cooler

Look at the drawing on the Land Rover O ring link. It's labelled 7890b

janstood wrote:

Thanks both. Just to be clear, are we saying that the lower hose both at the box and the oil cooler is the return pipe and that the LR manual is wrong (as per attached)?
I know some have suggested this but I wasn’t absolutely clear if something had been lost in translation.

Thanks.

Deleted, wrong thread again!

Thanks Bob. I hate that the manual is wrong - might think twice about doing the timing belt based upon what it says! Ordered the o-ring but not sure I have the patience to wait for it.

The old ring may well be hard and brittle and won't seal when refitted. Mine was and there was a significant leak. Luckily I had a similar one in my tool box. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

For what its worth the O ring is 11.3mm X 2.5mm

Bobupndown wrote:

janstood wrote:

Thanks both. Just to be clear, are we saying that the lower hose both at the box and the oil cooler is the return pipe and that the LR manual is wrong (as per attached)?
I know some have suggested this but I wasn’t absolutely clear if something had been lost in translation.

Thanks.

Yep, see my post on pg 14, it's the bottom of the 2 pipes on the autobox. Make sure you have a new o ring to refit.

From this pic the green pipe is the lower at the autobox end



Are the flow indicator arrows incorrect ? Jules

The return ( the pipe you need to undo ) has the torx bolt below it. whereas the flow pipe has the torx bolt above it. It will be obvious once you have seen them

Last edited by I Like Chips on 3rd Feb 2023 8:34 am. Edited 1 time in total

The flow indicators on the pipe are not correct, the green pipe is the output from the oil cooler. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

I'm green/red colour blind, Do you mean the orange one

janstood wrote:

Thanks Bob. I hate that the manual is wrong - might think twice about doing the timing belt based upon what it says! Ordered the o-ring but not sure I have the patience to wait for it.

Funny thing, I did a similar method with my Acura's power steering fluid. The manual identified one hose as the return, but the youtube video said it was the other hose.

Well, I figured the manual couldn't be wrong. One huge mess later...

Starting to wonder who mfgs have labeling hose directions in their shop manuals