Mine is a 2007 and when all my glow plugs died there was no fault code shown just very hard to start.

Richard FL2 07 TD4 GS Auto
Ex 02 TD4 Auto

Worms wrote:

Thanks. But I think you are saying you can see the status of the two values (just as I think I am) rather than there actually being a fault code that would show up when the reader lists the faults? I'm struggling to find a glowplug fault code in the manual.

In my experience glow plugs either worked or didnt.
Can you not just test them for electrical continuity? Or is it more complicated these days . Jules

I don't think getting at them individually to test them is particularly easy and by then you are probably half-way to changing them! But it might be possible to get at the wiring to test the collective current for all four and work out how many (if any) are actually working. All of these things are of course much easier if you have a covered or indoor workshop, but not an attractive prospect in this weather for those of us working in the driveway! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Agreed - not much fun in this weather.
I can't get a vehicle into my garage at the moment due to scaffolding. I was hoping the work on the house would have been done by now but there have been delays - so in the end I bit the bullet and got under the series 3 on the drive.
Luckily the Midlands was relatively warm last week compared to the North and South at the time. In fact we've had no sleet or snow this winter so far.
I dropped the sump on my series 3 last week and changed the leaking gasket, greased the UJs & topped up the whole of the drive train with EP90 - warming the EP90 before hand pumping it helped. Jules

As the intake manifold needs removing for proper access to the plugs, it's worth simply replacing them rather than testing them first.
Buy OE or a named brand like Bosch or NGK. Don't bother with cheap Ebay plugs, as they fail very quickly. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Don’t forget that there are two versions of glow plugs used in the fl2. You need to get the correct version for your car.

As advised by Advanced Factors when I did mine

Chassis no. AH LR001302 (NGK 4966) 11 volt.

Chassis no BH onward. LR022300 5 volt

Good luck

Richard

thanks - I'll add that to my list of future parts needed Jules

The glow plugs can be changed without removing the inlet manifold. Bit of a chew but doable. Problem is you have to work by feel and use a mirror just to see where you are working.
That's how I did mine a couple of years back. Would not do it that way again, too much to go wrong. It is however the quickest option. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

ReggiePerrin wrote:

stistus FL2 2009 wrote:

Yes it seems so. But as i mentioned earlier there is no way to some diagnosis in this ruthless winter here🥶. So i guess quick fix would be adding a switch on the pole. But i read somewhere that a faulty door switch can make a leak

I had a faulty passenger door lock - it wouldn’t lock which resulted in something like not sending the 'operation complete' signal and the car simply kept trying to operate the lock.

It played absolute havoc with my battery (winter, car outside overnight) - flat to the extent that the starter couldn't crank the engine, transmission errors showing up etc.

New door lock and the problem instantly went away, never to return.

I think you would figure out which door better from inside the car,

Agreed. I also encountered another strange problem with this in that even after charging the battery up it won't crank. It doesn't even act like it's trying to crank. I get a code on the dash screen that shows 40900 and 2085 which I know one of them is for the TPMS system, which has been faulty since we got it.

Have a ou checked the earthing points are clean and tight ? Tried disconnecting the battery for a while ?

I haven't tried checking the specific earthing / grounding points just yet but plan on doing that this morning. Will also try to leave the battery disconnected for some time as well.

I swear I had the info about what all the codes on the info center mean but I cannot find it now