Hi.

So this problem have gotten worse every winter.

I have read alot about this matter both here and other platforms.

Things i have done so far regarding this matter is:

- Added extra earth cable to the starter bolt, also added an extra short earth cable over the original just behind the battery.
-changed glow plugs this summer
-Had all my injectors changed last year
-New bigger battery 2 years ago, also got this testet in the supply shop a few weeks ago.
-Added a external heater to blow heat directly on the starter and engine (this seemed to to wonders last winter)
-Soldered the cable on the starter that almost had lost all its Connection.

ofccourse i also tried this trick, pushing the start butten, without stamping the clutch, to let the glow plugs heat up.

I get som fault codes regarding the oil temp and quality, so a oil sensor is bad, since i recently have changed oil and filter, but i dont belive this is the cause.

When i tryed to start todoay in minus 11 celcius, it almost crancked over, but just not enoug, and the the battery seems to get drained, and then i have to wait for my charger to charge it up again.

Sorry for my bad english, hopefully i make my self understandable

Frustrating to have done all that and still get problems!

Having had a similar issue yesterday (but only at -6C) that was resolved by warming the engine with an external heater, I am wondering if the throttle body doesn't like the cold and is reluctant to open. I could see a scenario where the grease in the cogs becomes too thick at cold temps, the drive motor can't move the cogs, the butterfly valve on the air intake remains closed and the diesel can't ignite? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Could your starter motor be on its way out?
Like me, your vehicle is a 2009, I had to change the starter motor recently as it was not turning the engine over fast enough.
JLR will not tell you what the cranking speed should be, but for a diesel the minimum should be 250rpm to about 300rpm. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Yes, this car get moore frustrating to own each winter. But it seems to be a problem with drainage of the battery that seems to be the main problem, as i just got out after it got fully charged, and now started easy. So next step now is just to mount a battery pole switch on the negative pole, and hopefully i can use the car this winter😉

Gasman, yeah the thought have been on that aswell, but i think my soldering of this is good enough, rather then gamble buying a new one just to see if it helps, im now sure it is a battery drainage somewhere, and to not go through what causing the drainage in -15° celcius, i rather just get a battery switch

Can you borrow an amp clamp? Fit it across positive cable going to the starter motor. Have someone else crank the engine and see if it is drawing enough amperage. If memory serves me right, should be about 240 Amps.
Just because your cables look ok does not mean that they can pass the required amperage or the starter motor is pulling the correct amperage also. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

From my own experience - corroded connections; at battery, at starter, at engine or chassis earths can seriously limit current during starting but test OK with a simple continuity tester. Jules

As Jules said.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Jules. Yes but ive added 2 new earth cabels. But do yo think a corroded cable can drain battery?

Are you saying that the battery drains overnight or when standing for some time.
If that is the case you may have a parasitic drain on the electrical system.
If so, there are many videos on YouTube of how to diagnose. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Yes it seems so. But as i mentioned earlier there is no way to some diagnosis in this ruthless winter here🥶. So i guess quick fix would be adding a switch on the pole. But i read somewhere that a faulty door switch can make a leak

Over night yes

This is a completely different solution that fixed my cold start issues (I had also tried all the other suggestions of extra earth cables etc). I had the inline fuse blow some time back on the positive cable so replaced it with an after market unit that I picked up from the auto electrician. I seem to remember reading original genuine fuse is rated at 150amp which I suspected wasn’t allowing enough current through for those cold winter starts. The new one (pictured) is 250 amp and for the first time in the 7 years I have had the car I had no problems starting the car throughout our winter which is unusual considering it tends to do short runs.

Luke g.

By inline fuse, is that the flat connector that is directly mounted on the posetive pole? Because i had this removed recently because it was broken. If it that you talking about, i would really appreciate if you have a link to an aftermarket part as you have installed 😃

I forgot to add,Volvo used to use exactly the same inline fuse as the Freelander 2 on the cable from the positive terminal to the alternator/starter and customers had the same problems with slow cranking and problems starting in winter.