FREELANDER 2 2.2 2008 CAR MANUAL 110,000 miles - WONT REV
Hi everyone,
not new to this site but this is my first post
being going through a few things to try get my car going over the last 14 months
the car initially just cut out on the motorway after 10mins of driving
was recovered at diagnosed as a crank sensor fault, so after replacing -
crank sensor factors and dealer parts
cam sensor factors copy part
exciter pick up ring facor and dealer parts
throttle body
new fuel filter
accelerator pedal
replacement ecu cloned to my codes
injectors serviced and anothe r set of ebay
3 high pressure pumps (my lucky number lol )
wiring from crank and cam sensors stripped back chacked and replace inc plugs
maf sensor
another throttle body
egr blanked with a small hole in it at the inlet manifold end
replacement return diesel pipes as there is a valve inline
checked all intercooler pipes are ok
so far ive got the car to start on the button but refuses to increase rpm past 900rpm, ticks over all day at 750ish rpm
when i press the acc pedal it goes to 900 rpm and then splutters and starts knocking a really heavey diesel knock
timing is spot on -i have pinned it on the flywheel end and pinned the cam too... rotated started the engine and repinned to double check all good
ive had the egr off stripped and cleanned
ive had the turbo pipes off and checked for stuck or broken stiff impeller but all good
the inlets been stripped off and the butterfly flaps removed and blanked at the end where the spindle went

the engine has been run without the exhaust connected to the turbo to eleminate blocked exhaust problems and run with the inlet missing too to again eliminate blocked air intake

the engine sounds sweet as a nut on tickover and starts from flat cold in a second
the big thing i have noticed is that when i spray easy start or brake cleaner direct into the air intake the rpms at the very best raise to 1500 and not the expected red line ready for a bang ....
there is no pressure in tne water jacket or oil system from dipstick or filler cap , no excessive exhaust emmisions
im really at a loss with this car now ,, but too stuborn to just give up on it
anyone any ideas ????

Any Fault Codes

hi, will be getting it back to my shop on monday will scan it then and report on the new codes ,
should have done that before posting sorry

You don't seem to say if it ever worked normally, what then happened, and what led to you doing such extensive work to it. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Sorry should have read your post properly - I was waffling on about the throttle body Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Seems like there is not enough air sucked into the engine.
Also check if the rockers and cams are in proper, without wear, condition.

But hey, why so much work on this engine, from a simple engine stall and crank sensor fault?

IanMetro wrote:

You don't seem to say if it ever worked normally, what then happened, and what led to you doing such extensive work to it.

alex_pescaru wrote:

Seems like there is not enough air sucked into the engine.
Also check if the rockers and cams are in proper, without wear, condition.

But hey, why so much work on this engine, from a simple engine stall and crank sensor fault?

Wondering if all this stuff was done by a Land Rover Specialist or a general garage. It's one hell of a size of part cannon, a Big Bertha to aim at the car.

rickypuntos wrote:

will say that all the time i have owned it -it has had an annoying hick-up,,in that it would feel like you'd turned the key off and back on very fast

rickypuntos wrote:

IanMetro wrote:

You don't seem to say if it ever worked normally, what then happened, and what led to you doing such extensive work to it.

hi, i owned the vehicle for 3 years and it ran great up to the breakdown, but will say that all the time i have owned it -it has had an annoying hick-up,,in that it would feel like you'd turned the key off and back on very fast ,, never really bothered me and diagnosis of such a small event would have been more trouble than it was worth at the time ... a week before the breakdown it went some 400 miles round trip towing a trailer to pick a car up ,, rained there and dry all the way back

hi the cam pin wasnt put in as the timing belt from what i can see holds the bottom inner pulley in place thus holding the camshaft in place ... the exciter trigger ring sits between the ineer and aux belt pulley , cheers ricky

I Like Chips wrote:

Wondering if all this stuff was done by a Land Rover Specialist or a general garage. It's one hell of a size of part cannon, a Big Bertha to aim at the car.

Nodge68 wrote:

rickypuntos wrote:

IanMetro wrote:

You don't seem to say if it ever worked normally, what then happened, and what led to you doing such extensive work to it.

hi, i owned the vehicle for 3 years and it ran great up to the breakdown, but will say that all the time i have owned it -it has had an annoying hick-up,,in that it would feel like you'd turned the key off and back on very fast ,, never really bothered me and diagnosis of such a small event would have been more trouble than it was worth at the time ... a week before the breakdown it went some 400 miles round trip towing a trailer to pick a car up ,, rained there and dry all the way back

The hick-up could well have been the crank sensor failing or it had a bad connection, which will make them fail.

However you've now thrown so many parts at it, that it's going to be impossible to identify if one of those parts is faulty.

Personally I avoid throwing parts at an engine, as it's not the way to identify the issue, and often causes more serious issues than it solves.

I'd replace all the old components, then go back to the crank sensor, as it's not uncommon for replacement sensors to have thinner pins than the originals, which causes connection issues within the plug.

If the engine stalled, then it won't be the cam sensor, so the old one can be refitted, making sure it's set to the correct air gap.

When the target wheel was replaced, was the cam timing locking pins put in place first? If not then the cam timing will have shifted, which can result in bent valves.

Good luck with finding the fault.

hi matey, i have been replacing and retrying all the old bits ,, ive just bought another 2007 car juust an auto one to swap bits from the old one onto to make sure all the parts are working as this cars spot on for now .. i wont be beaten its a engine after all ,, suck squeeze bang lol