I've had rumbling noise from front of engine which I suspected was tensioner or alternator pulley from reading up on here.

As I could not do alternator myself (no tool) if it was that, I asked local garage to have a look.

They confirmed alternator pulley BUT they could not get it off! They broke both their alternator tools trying to remove but siezed solid.

They've put back together for now but I obviously need to get it sorted before it causes other damage.

Anyone else had this issue, if so what was solution?

I'm looking at perhaps having to replace whole alternator if no other solution (£££)

HELP Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

If the Alternator is Rumbling I would have thought it was a bearing in which case a new altwernator would be the answer? 2013 FL2 XS.
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Rommel, no it's the pully clutch definitely.

Further to this I've been reading up about alternator removal here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic13596.ht...or+removal

and it seems pully needs to come off to access all the bolts.

Oh no! Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

I had this tensioner problem, then the alternator locked solid and caused the aux drive belt to melt on ALL pullies !!!

£500 later fixed. I had to buy a new (not exchange as alternator was so gone garage would not be able to exchange) alternator. and have ALL pullies cleaned up, what a job.

Hi Andy we had the same problem a few weeks ago with our 09 HSE so we took the car to a local independent Land Rover dealer Joyce Land Rover Trowbridge, and they told me straight away what the problem was, booked it n and did the job and the car is great again so we will definitly be booking the car in with them when the next service is due.
Cheers
Moe

Andy,

The tool that I have had difficulty removing the pulley.

This is for a 3.2 with a Bosch Alternator but I have also used the same toll for my Audi 2.0T.


To over come this I use an air gun to spin the alternator using only the splined tool and then I reversed the direction with the alternator rotor spinning and it came free.


I think it was Anti-Clockwise to bring it up to speed and then Clockwise to remove it.

So Instead of using a tool to hold the rotor in place I used inertia to my advantage. Isn't physics fun?


The easiest path forward may be to get a rebuilt Alternator.


Let us know.


Also if the Overdrive pulley is broken (seized solid) then the belt and tensioner should be taking a beating.

Take a look at this video.

If the Belt/Tensioner isn't bouncing around then the urgency to fix the Alternator is less than if it is bouncing a lot.



Good luck

Paul

As it looks like alternator is going to have to come out to fix this, I've decided, as per Paul's comment, to replace whole alternator whilst I'm at it. As it has done 122k miles might as well to be sure all ok. I can get a reconditioned exchange unit for £122 so not bad. Tensioner and belt as well of course. Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

Bit of info that might help anyone looking to do this job:

The OEM pulley (Alternator Freewheel Clutch) is made by Schaeffler INA part No. 535005910

You can cross check that it's the correct part against the number on the pulley it's self. Mine was INA F-232369.07. The part above covers F-232369.04/.05/.07 & F-232369.08.

The correct torque setting is 85Nm.

I managed to pick up both the pulley and the special tool from amazon.

Tool set: BGS 4246 Alternator Bit/ Bit Socket Set.

Pulley: LUK 535005910 Freewheel Alternator.

I removed the alternator form the car. Process as per Haynes manual. There's a good video on youtube. Great tip from it. Put some grease on the Alternator lugs when reinstalling. It's a tight fit, this made it easier.

You'll also need a fuel filter.

Need to do mine very soon, Walenut do you remember what thread the pulley nut/bolt is, right or left?

Thanks in advance.

Standard right hand thread.