I have just ordered some o-rings to try to stop a small diesel leak onto the top of the engine. To fit the o-rings I need to remove the leak-off pipes. I wont try to do this until the Bosch O-Ring F00VP01003 arrive (thanks @alex_pescaru for the part number).
I know this leak-off removal topic has been covered here before and it seems to be as simple as lifting the centre of the connector, but I also know these connectors are notorious for breaking.

So I have taken a picture to see if anyone who has done this can shed some light the best way to remove these. Should they be grabbed from just under the green tabs with pliers and lifted? Is any squeezing required?

I've played around with them previously and I don't get the feeling of anything releasing.

Any help is much appreciated.

Does this help ?

Maybe you meant to reply with a link?

I just found this:https://www.freel2.com/forum/post309369.html

This link suggests you grab the black centre from the top and pull straight up which unlocks the connector. Once it is unlocked you can just pull off the connector. I'll try it in the morning and post some pics if it works.

Oh I’m sorry

If your Freelander 2 has fumes entering the cabin it seems to come from one of two places.

1. There is diesel pooling on top of the engine and then burning off or
2. There is oil dripping from the breather pipe (the big black pipe with resonance tubes) that runs down to the turbo and it is burning.
Both will make it seem like there are exhaust fumes entering the cabin.

Here I am trying to fix number 1. There has been a small leak for more than a year, but to fix it I need remove the leak-off pipe connectors (those little green and black tabs that connect to the injectors, and install a new o-ring. The connector looks fragile so I have avoided them because I just haven't been able to understand how they work, but this morning I managed to unlock one when the engine was cold. When you pull up on the black part correctly you get a satisfying click and it lifts up. I assume that the connector then pulls off quite easily. I didn't need pliers and I didn't pull the whole connecter off yet as I want the o-rings to arrive first, but unlocking it most the battle.

I tried to get a picture of the unlocked connector but I couldn't get it unlocked again with a hot engine. I will post some pics soon and all will become clear.

Ok so here are the pics. It is pretty easy to do this without risking breaking them. The first pic is tab locked. The second is unlocked after gently pulling up the centre. From this position it can just be pulled off to replace the pipe or just the o-ring.

O-rings arrived today. Yes the connectors do just pull straight up. Even knowing about the issue with breaking connectors I still managed to break one green tab off. Not sure if that matters. The o-rings themselves are tiny but its not too hard to pull the old ones off and put the new ones on. They kind of roll on and off. I examined the old ones under a jewellers loupe and they looked perfect so these may not be the cause of the leak. I'll know after a few days of driving.

Ok just a quick follow up. Been doing daily driving and towed the caravan for 3 or 4 hours really working the engine. Checked under the engine cover and the top of the engine is bone dry. No diesel leak. The engine bay smells much better and I guess it doesn't matter if a green tab breaks off the connector still seals.

Id like to share a leak off pipe issue I have had, so members are forewarned,

I replace my leak off pipes with a set from 'Gates' they basically are very bad quality and leak from everywhere, resulting in a fire hazard and the car being grounded. This after only a few minths. A new original part has since been installed. No trouble with the original part up till now.