As for trying to get the current one out, I think I would try and cut a slot along the centre line and try and knock it round with a chisel or punch. Failing that, well a nut to it to be able to get a socket on it...

A word of warning before you try and remove the damaged drain plug please make sure that you can undo the filler plug the last thing you want is a gearbox with no oil in it and no way to replenish it.

Thanks very much for the advice. I did think of the cutting a slot with a dremel then knocking it round, got some old sump guard bots off like that before. I did wonder if a twist socket like the ones you can get for removing locking wheel nuts might work? There's not much to get hold of but if a couple of threads could catch hold it might shift it. I was thinking of welding a nut but I think its so tight it will just sheer off. No idea why it has to be so bloody tight.

This is the filler plug, wanted to get it loose before I did anything else. Thinking it would be a 5 minute job! I could then start draining the old etc.

I'm currently restoring a little grey fergie TEF20, its old and rusty. its 3/4 done and so far there hasn't been a single nut or bolt that I could not get off. Haven't had to use a drill, heat or grinder. Just GT85 and decent sockets. How can it be that a 8 year old FL2 is such a ballache?

Have ordered a replacement filler plug so will wait for that before the next struggling and swearing session! ____________________________

FL2 SD4 XS - Current
FL2 TD4 GS (Auto) - Gone
FL1 TD4 Freestyle (Auto) - Gone

Yeah, the fill plug seems to really seal. I actually don't follow the torque recommended setting for this plug as I have destroyed one before and since then have not had any issue and it still gets tighter but not as tight!

I would try cutting a small notch and then tapping it around if it were mine.

Just to add my feedback to this thread. Bought a very cheap HSE Freelander Auto off eBay a couple of months back with electrical issues and nothing else mentioned. Once they were sorted on the first proper test run I was horrified to find the gearbox juddering and hunting all over the place - it was almost undriveable.

Found this thread and figured it was worth a shot, did one dump and fill then immediately a flush using about 10l of oil in total. No word of a lie the thing drives perfectly now, not a shudder or miss shift since and I’ve put a good 3-4K on it - some of that with a 16’ trailer on. Can’t believe how well it has recovered and to anyone facing problems I would definitely recommend trying.

How many miles had it done before gearbox oil change? Probably never done in its life before. I did mine at 65000 , full change. Now just over 90000 I dropped and refilled 3 litres and plan to do that at every 10000 mile service. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

It had done 179k and like you say don’t think it had ever been done which is why I was so surprised at its miraculous recovery.

Did my first DIY fluid change yesterday (2008 3.2 i6). 162K miles, and it had been done once before at 112K by a shop.

Used 18 qts of Aisin ATF-0T4, which should be the OEM fluid for our Aisin gearboxs (early model 3309 spec). JLR branded fluid would have been about eight times as costly.

Started out black with a hint of red, smelled normal.

Ended up more red than black, but didn't look brand new (50k miles since last change). Test drive after revealed somewhat smoother shifting, next time I think I'll get 22 qts and do it at 40K miles.


Helpful hints...

I drove it before I did the change so it was already warmed up. So only took a couple minutes to get the last fill warmed for the level adjust.

Got about 3.2 qts out of the first drain. Added 3.5 quarts for each flush, because that was an even use of quart bottles of fluid (2 cycles = 7 qts). Added 4qts for the final fill since the level adjust is done with the engine running running so less fluid is in the pan compared to when you did the drains.

I would suggest 22 qts... five drain and fills + four qts for the final fill with a bit left over.

The fill plug on top is a PITA. Hard to get to and takes a lot of torque to break free. I needed a step-down adapter so I could use my 1/2" breaker bar on the 3/8" drive torx bit. It simply wasn't happening with a 3/8" ratchet and I'm a big guy.

A helper with very small hands is useful. You'll also need a funnel with a hose (or they actually make a plastic fill tube/funnel with a dog-leg for this). After dropping the fill plug several times and having to hunt for it in the bottom of the engine compartment I figured out that you can just leave the fill hose in place while you run the engine and cycle the gears between drain and fills, no fluid came out the top. So you really only have to deal with the fill plug when you remove it at the beginning and install it it at the end.

I used an autel AP200 to read the temp.



This volvo video was helpful...

Did the flush last week.

2,2 - 2014 - 160k km

I used 12l Toyota ATF WS, 3 times 4l. Last change only 3.5l was enough.
I have an autel maxi ap2000 bluetooth. I couldn't see the gearbox temperature (it said 4 celsius degrees)
I waited that the gearbox pan was hot hot when touching with a nitrile glove , and then i checked the level.
I think it could be estimated very well by the temperature of the oil you flush every time correlated to the time the engine is running. I think you could use an infrared/laser thermometer also.

The original oil was black.
The car was changing gears fain.
Did 50km.
It's still changing ok after the flush.

I did the flash mainly because I feel a little shuddering picking up speed 40km-80km, very similar with our colleague
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38321.html

Currently the shuddering is still there, but not so pronounced, placebo effect
We'll see.
Thank you for your attention.








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The easiest way is to do the modified Gibbons method

Octavian4x4 wrote:

I have an autel maxi ap2000 bluetooth. I couldn't see the gearbox temperature (it said 4 celsius degrees)

Thank you!

Update: Tranny fluid temp is also listed under the ECM as "transmission oil temp".

Hi All, I am about to try the gibbons method on my 2010 td4. I want to remove the oil return hose from the oil cooler. It has a black plastic ‘quick’ fit type hose connector with blue buttons on each side. It looks like the buttons could either be slid back, forwards or pushed in, or a combination of slide and push in. Does anyone know how to release these connectors? It is driving me mad! Tx