I need assistance with my crankshaft position sensor issue please - currently on my 3rd sensor. First sensor died at about 9 years of age, second lasted just over a year. Both are definitely very dead as car will not start with them in. The car will only start with the 3rd (current) sensor installed.

With the first 2 sensors, there would be loss of power while driving but the codes (P0335 and P0336) would only register when sensors were completely dead. With the 3rd sensor, codes (P0335 and P0336) registered after first loss of power, which happened today. I cleared the codes and the car drives as though nothing happened. The 3rd sensor is 5 months and ~1200 miles old.

Wiggling sensor wires with the engine running did not produce misfire. Wires and harness appear to be in good shape and clean. All sensors were genuine.

Any ideas what could be killing the sensors? MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Are you using genuine sensors? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yes, all genuine. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

If it’s a three wire device it should have live, negative (earth), and signal. So a faulty earth might cause the signal to go high ie a 12v device might give a 5v signal normally but lose negative and the signal might go to 12v - this should kill the ECU.
A fault on the signal to earth or 12v should kill the sensor - overload or backfeed.
A fault on the supply - let’s say it gets only 5v from the ECU and it momentarily gets 12v will kill the sensor and possibly the ECU if it’s from an external source. Similar scenarios for a two wire device.
So options are physically check the wiring by stripping protective sleeve all the way from sensor to ECU/ supply. Have ECU checked. Buy sensor from another supplier in case of bad batch. Time consuming and therefore expensive if you are not handy with tools and multimeter.
Sorry Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

I had trouble with a brand new sensor. Bought another one from an LR specialist, they told me they only fit genuine LR ones because of problems using others. Been running fine for must be a 18 months or so.

Andy131 wrote:

If it’s a three wire device it should have live, negative (earth), and signal. So a faulty earth might cause the signal to go high ie a 12v device might give a 5v signal normally but lose negative and the signal might go to 12v - this should kill the ECU.
A fault on the signal to earth or 12v should kill the sensor - overload or backfeed.
A fault on the supply - let’s say it gets only 5v from the ECU and it momentarily gets 12v will kill the sensor and possibly the ECU if it’s from an external source. Similar scenarios for a two wire device.
So options are physically check the wiring by stripping protective sleeve all the way from sensor to ECU/ supply. Have ECU checked. Buy sensor from another supplier in case of bad batch. Time consuming and therefore expensive if you are not handy with tools and multimeter.
Sorry

wiring diagram is attached

Click image to enlarge

Couldn't work out where the ground wire attaches on the vehicle to inspect the connection so I just checked for voltage drop across all earth points I could see (inspired by Scotty Kilmer), and body of the ECU. No voltage drop at all - which is very good I believe. Didn't do the test prior to cleaning factory earth contact as wasn't aware of the method at the time. Hopefully this does the trick.

 MY10 TD4 SE Auto

All sorted. The problem was with the crankshaft sensor connector / plug. If anyone is having the same problem and would like to get it fixed, read my comments here (link below) or send me a message to discuss further:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37181.html MY10 TD4 SE Auto

My crank sensor failed 80 miles into a 180 mile journey. There were 2 codes generated (I didn't note them), but were crank sensor related. Luckily I had the old sensor (the one on the engine was only 2 years and 4,000 miles old), so I fitted the replacement sensor, and continued my journey, and back without any more failures, although I do still have the occasional dropout of one cylinder, particularly if I use significant throttle.

I'll get another genuine sensor, and check the plug and wiring to the sensor. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I had drop outs & into limp mode with no EML lights, whilst under acceleration.
Read the codes & came up with P1203 - short circuit cylinder no.3

Had no.3 piezo injector replaced - drop outs cured.

Not a particularly cheap fix at approx £440 Inc VAT (replacement injector cost £ 235)

If it happens again on a different cylinder I'll be tempted to have a bash at changing one myself.

Hope this helps.


Cheers
Brian

impact wrote:

All sorted. The problem was with the crankshaft sensor connector / plug. If anyone is having the same problem and would like to get it fixed, read my comments here (link below) or send me a message to discuss further:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37181.html

I've had a new Delphi crank sensor delivered, along with 2 new plugs with gold plated connectors and 3 lengths of silicone insulated 0.5mm wire, so that I can replace everything from the ECM to the sensor.
I suspect that a bad connection at the crank sensor is responsible for the early demise of my new sensor.
In the meantime, I've cleaned the plug connectors and sensor pins with contact cleaner, and the occasional dropouts have disappeared, but I'm sure that's only temporary, so I'll be replacing the wires and plug when I've the time. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I have just ordered a couple of crank sensors due to drop out last Saturday on the way to out Nano meet, since then i have had two cut outs, checked battery it was a bit low and seeing it was 7+ years old i have replaced that too.

I did buy a crank sensor sometime back but could not find it, so these below are on there way to me.

Lucas.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355522941635

Febi from DCP which i am hoping is genuine and not a copy or they send another make in it's place if so it will go back, have read some bad feed back after the fact of ordering
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313051670303

DTC code P0335 and DTC P0336 showing up also engine performance cleared and drove ok but did the same next morning not tried today yet.

Today the new crankshaft sensor was fitted, and all seems well again after a drive, i fitted the Febi sensor below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313051670303

1

When i removed the old sensor the numbers matched perfect.
2 new

3 old

I will post a thread up on how the sensor was removed and fitted, the subframe was also de-rusted and painted in that area while i was there and a new front back plate fitted.
4

The near side was done not so long back.