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Nbuuifx

Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 172

2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Squeak from the rear

My wife has been complaining about the Freelander making a squeak from the rear.

I've only heard it once, so will need to drive it a bit more to try and work anything else out. However it seems to be unrelated to braking.

Shocks were replaced in January. MOT passed in February. All seemed perfect for a few months, now this squeak has started.

The shocks had new anti squeal rubbers fitted under the springs.

Any ideas where to look?

13th May 2022 10:47 pm

I Like Chips

Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1546

2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Check the handbreak system

14th May 2022 6:38 am

Nodge68

Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Were the rear shock top mounts set so the studs aren't in contact with the body? The top mount studs pass through enlarged holes in the body, so fine adjustment can be made to the suspension geometry. However if the studs are positioned so they're in contact with the holes in body, then there's the potential for contact and noise. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

14th May 2022 7:57 am

Nbuuifx

Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 172

I Like Chips wrote:
Check the handbreak system

I replaced the shoes etc in Feb, the hand brake didn't work very well but works perfectly now. Anything particular that you are suggesting checking? The shoes are brand new as are the springs etc. The pivot parts are both freely moving, the cables are in good condition and all operates a as it should.

15th May 2022 9:02 am

Nbuuifx

Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 172

Nodge68 wrote:
Were the rear shock top mounts set so the studs aren't in contact with the body? The top mount studs pass through enlarged holes in the body, so fine adjustment can be made to the suspension geometry. However if the studs are positioned so they're in contact with the holes in body, then there's the potential for contact and noise.

I'm not sure to be honest, I just put the nuts on and tightened them up. Would this be likely to start 3 months later?

I take it checking this would simply be... Remove the side trims in the boot, undo the 3 nuts on the top of each strut and rotate slightly to ensure they are centred in the holes then retighten?

15th May 2022 9:05 am

Nodge68

Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

Did you position the top mounts in the same position as they were removed? They are adjustable by way of enlarged holes, so need to be put back in the same position, or the suspension geometry needs resetting using 4 wheel alignment equipment like Hunter or equivalent. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

15th May 2022 9:42 am

Nbuuifx

Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 172

Do you mean when rebuilding the struts or when putting the complete strut back into the car?

When rebuilding the struts, it all went back on exactly as they came off.

When putting the strut back it went as close as it could to being the same but I couldn't guarantee it was identical.

15th May 2022 11:00 am

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