Hi I have a free lander 2 2010 2.2D I have a free lander two 2010 and it won’t start I have fuel in filter and lines but no fuel in fuel rail ..I’ve attached a picture of the codes I got from a code reader but not sure if it’s the pump or the fuel rail sensor
is there a way to test the pump? Or is it more likely to be the fuel rail sensor?

A new member. . . . . “Hi everyone, I’m new here but won’t bother introducing myself, will just plough straight in with my query”

The pump in the tank isn’t a lift pump. The high pressure pump on the cam shaft has to suck fuel from the tank through the filter then pump it into the rail. Check that the system is bled properly. Next would be the drive from the camshaft to the hp pump. It has been known to break.
By the way, welcome!

Got to agree - first port of call is air in the system, cannot be bled by cranking. If you just change the filter and the rest of the system is still filled you can get away with filling the fuel filter first and just cranking. If there is air in the low pressure side it must be bled using a pump (bulb type?).

Failing that the high pressure pump is driven off the end of a camshaft, the camshaft drive has been known to fail.

Then it is possible that the high pressure side is dumping the pressure, but there would be some fuel there in that case.

The fuel pump in the tank is for transferring from one side to the other - saddle tank design would leave one side filled with fuel if there was no transfer pump.

Just noticed that the air intake is stuck closed - it isn't going to start without air Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Sidthecat wrote:

A new member. . . . . “Hi everyone, I’m new here but won’t bother introducing myself, will just plough straight in with my query”

It’s the way of the world just now it doesn’t bother me.

Sorry didn’t introduce myself ..totally forgot probably passed with the car
Hi I’m Chris and thanks for replying
It’ just didn’t start again after I’d used it earlier in day
I’ve bled system out and not getting fuel up to injectors , I even cracked fuel pump supply into fuel rail but nothing
I’ve got a fuel rail coming with both sensors so I’ll swap that out but if no joy I take it’ll be the high pressure pump ?
Many thanks 🙏

The high pressure pumps don't usually fail - the end of the camshaft shears off, not always, just usually.

Never actually seen it happen on a FL2, but was on a caravan site when one poor chap in a Peugeot came to leave site and the car wouldn't start, the AA diagnosed pump drive sheared. FL2 engine is used in other cars with various modifications. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

The HP pump is a red herring.
Don't go replacing the rail, it won't go wrong.
Before messing about with the HP fuel system, you need to make sure that there is fuel getting to the HP pump. If any of the fuel lines have been disconnected, then air will have got in, often preventing fuel from lifting from the tank.
The fuel supply needs bleeding correctly, with a hand pump on the return line, which ensures that there is fuel at the HP pump.

Also never crack HP fuel lines, as the pressure could easily spray fuel through your skin. Also the pipes are a once tighten design, requiring replacement every time they are undone.

Things to check are crank sensor, cam sensor, and throttle body.
Also run a proper diagnostic on it, before messing with the fuel system. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

My son ran low on fuel last night and the car stopped. We put in some more fuel but it would only turn over and not fire. The RAC said that there was fuel going to the injectors but not very much. We continued to crank it over every half hour but no joy.

On getting delivered home by the RAC, I use my hand pump to draw fuel through the filter, but still no joy. I also noted a bubbling sound under the car on the driver side when I switched on the ignition before I turned the car over. I reprised the fuel filter and noticed the bubbling sound did not recur when I switched on the ignition and the car fired up (5 hours after running low).

There was clearly an air problem and I am surprised that a modern (2009) car can not reprise its system.

Lesson 1 - don't take too much notice of the range calculation on the dash display
Lesson 2 - persevere with the bleeding

Still wonder if there is some underlying problem that made it difficult for the car to draw the fuel through.

The bubbling sound from under the car is the in tank pump moving fuel from one side of the tank to the other and supplying the swirl pot that the main fuel line takes from and the return line goes to. That is all that this pump does.
The main high pressure pump (driven by the exhaust camshaft) sucks fuel up the main fuel line, through the filter and supplies the fuel rail at high pressure. Excess fuel from the rail goes back through the filter then back to the tank. To work there must not be any air in this system.
The range calculation on the dash is based on the last 30 or so miles. If you’ve just driven none stop on open roads you can see some really optimistic figures shown here, but if you then get stuck in stop/start traffic range will drop hugely. The secret is to fill up when the warning light appears (or ASAP). Below a predetermined fuel level the car will go into limp mode for a short distance, then stop. This is controlled by the level in the tank rather than the calculated number on the dashboard.

Useful explanation. Many thanks.