I download everything I see and keep it in a folder so I'm not sure where the diagrams came from. It is listed as a 2013 LHD wiring diagram. I don't think the LHD part will make any difference.

It possibly came from the files section of the Facebook group - have a look on there as loads of my files came from there.[/list]

Hi all.....update....

So I bought a Mk3 Steering Lock emulator which has the correct connector.....but to no avail. Thanks to Nbuuifx and a wiring explanation I can test the four wires on the connector, specifically the terminal 3 - negative and 4 - positive and it appears that there is insufficient power going to the terminal as it shows a max of 2.34v at best.

I've tested again the Relay which does work and the socket shows a supply of 12v so can it be that it's a bad earth supplying the steering lock? Even if it was a bad earth surely the positive terminal on the steering lock connector would show 12v when I use a multi meter connected to a very good earth? or am I being thick again?

I thought about splicing into the earth wire on the connector and taking it to a good earthing bolt under the dash somewhere.....probably blow something in the process though.

If the Relay can supply 12v why isn't the connector showing that....or can it be that a relay can test as working with 12v and a multimeter but is not able to work once on the car???? Dunno.

Looks like off to Land Robber after all.....

Earthing point positions
 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

thanks for the earth diagram but I don't think it's correct for my car.....I found the two earth connections under the drivers seat which according to a wiring diagram are for the Steering lock but there is nothing at all connected to them.

I need to find an up to date wiring diagram I guess.....

The relay has two 12V supplies, one to pull it in and another to supply the lock - check them both. Next problem, you might have 12V supply at the relay but through a very poor connection, so while testing with a multimeter (no load) it looks fine, but put a load on it and the resistance in poor connection gives a voltage drop. Test the relay supply with a load, say a 5watt lamp and measure the voltage with the load connected
Lamp needs to go to earth to be a load Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Hi,

Thanks for that tip......both 12v supplies read ok though I have to say when I'm trying different scenarios, which means the locking and unlocking of the car, which means the car is going through multiple cycles of checks etc the battery does lose power rather quickly. It's brand new and fully charged and each idea I get to try I make sure it's fully charged before I begin. When I checked both supplies to the relay it was reading 12.34v and I wonder if thats enough?

Is it possible that the battery can drain so quickly? For example, with a fully charged battery, I unlock the car, open a door and the beeping tone begins in the engine bay which I understand to be the car checking and adjusting the percentage of drive available to the front and rear wheels. This stops after say 30seconds but monitoring the battery I can see the voltage has dropped to say 12.3v....the beeping stops and it goes up.....and it steadily goes back up as the car settles down but not quite to what it was before. I've done the parasitic drain test.....found nothing. It takes a while but the resting voltage settles down and the locked amp drain isn't more than 0.01a. I kept the bonnet open and with a screw driver locked the catches and locked double locked the car so I could periodically check the battery. The volts and amps eventually settled down.

I think I'll go buy a couple of new relays today and fit them. I'm not so savvy as to believe i am testing the existing one correctly. Other than that and after an auto electrician has failed to find the problem it's off to Land Rover.

Hi Swanny , just wondering what the outcome of all that was , It looks like I'm suffering the same pain as you did ☹️
Thanks.

Hi Andy,

In the end I had the car transported to Limassol Land Rover workshop where they replaced the steering lock for €750 ha! Parts in Cyprus are sooooo expensive, at least double or triple the price of the UK. People here used to buy their own parts and take them to the workshop with their car but since Brexit Import Duties and VAT make everything more expensive from the UK. Hey Ho.

I did try the little digital steering lock emulator but for me it didn't work. The steering lock design changed at some point between 2006-2014 so if yours is the earlier version it may work for you as it has for others. It's probably worth a try for the cheap cost of them. But then no steering lock.

I delayed taking it to the garage for far too long. There seemed to be so many faults coming up both on the dash but also on the diagnostic tool the local car electrician used (but couldn't fix) that I didn't trust his opinion that it was totally down to the steering lock. However.....it was. A new once fixed it all. Strangely when I took the car back the electric seat adjustment fails to work intermittently and one of the 12v sockets between the seats stopped working. Too far to drive back and tell them and anyway I know what it's like to have customers blame you for things totally unrelated not working to what you did on their car! Ha!

I suggest if you haven't already get it on a diagnostic tool and if it says steering lock, have it replaced. Not worth messing about wondering like I did. Good luck.