Hi,

Can anyone tell me what the voltage should be going into the steering lock on a 2013 FL2 SD4 please? Taken the connecter out which has four wires, a 1. black 2. Brown 3. Yellow 4. yellow with blue (or green?) stripe......

Black shows zero, nada.....which I assume is the earth? brown shows 3.7v and the others odds n sods but very little. To test this I had to use the seat runner bolt as the earth as the black showed nothing. I'm assuming it should show 12v to operate the motor to activate the steering lock? if it's only getting 3.7v then perhaps the lock is ok but the supply is faulty.

Tested it with ignition on, button pressed and brake peddle in ......and without and all combinations in between....

Does anyone know of the relay that supplies this? how can I chase this out?

Thanks.

I don't really know the specifics to your question but the canbus operates at about 3.7v and I'd expect the steering lock to be on the canbus, so the 3.7v sounds correct.

I'm sure I've read before that there is a relay in the passenger foot well which is related to the steering lock.

Sorry I can't help more than that though.

Hi....thanks so much for that!

So this may confirm the voltage I am getting. The only issue then is why can I not detect this voltage with a multimeter using the earth wire on the connecter I wonder? As I have mentioned the only way to get voltage reading is to use a seat bolt as the earth. In my ignorance I'm assuming therefore that the Ground138 may be faulty which means the steering lock can't function therefore the immobiliser doesn't get the signal all is ok and allows the starting of the car.....or is that way to simple...probably! ha!

If there is no ground available to the connecter then fitting a steering lock emulator will not work either. Perhaps this is why I have read that some folks who have fitted one have had negative results.

I will try to find the Ground points later though I'm assuming they may be hidden under carpets! The Ground 138 is under the drivers seat and the other ground associated with the steering lock is somewhere in the dash....I'm not hopeful!

Incidentally the only wiring diagram I have found shows only three wires going to the steering lock when on my car there are four.....i assume one power, one ground, one signal to inform the car it's locked or not but not sure about the other wire?

Thanks again for your input.

From a quick search, I found this...

Pin 2 green and orange wire. Should pulse 12v when the key is inserted into the starter control unit.
Pin 3 black and violet wire. Is ground.
Pin 4 grey and blue wire. Is the LIN communication wire and will normally have 7 to 10 volts when operating. Using an oscilloscope will confirm signals are being sent.


Which was you say take about 3 weeks and the colours don't really match yours. Perhaps these guides etc are all pre facelift?

Thanks for that.....!

yeah, pin numbers and wire colours just do not match and I have four wires.....

A company in Limassol about one hour and forty mins away will send me a steering lock emulator to try but I can't return it if it doesn't work. If I can't detect any earth on the connecter coming from the Relay then it probably won't work. They do vehicle diagnostics and repairs. If it doesn't work I can send my vehicle to him on a truck and he will look at it. Crazy.....the nearest LR workshop (kind of) is 45 mins away.....I may now just have to bite the bullet and send it to them though on the phone they were insisting ordering a new steering lock. Parts here in Cyprus are hugely expensive....a replacement front wheel bearing knuckle was €450! fitted. I think the part was €350+VAT.......

Before Brexit ordering your own parts from the UK was ok.....now it gets hit with import duties and VAT.....and huge delays as the back log for processing everything coming from the UK is huge. hey ho.

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated.

Interestingly, all the emulators I’ve looked at have three wires, yet installation vids show them being connected into a four way connector socket. The middle wire on the emulator is the earth, that relates to the 2nd from left (what colour is that) looking at the socket with the lock tab uppermost, if that makes sense! If that does not go to ground, then I think you do have an earthing issue. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Hi Badger....not sure this photo loads or not but when I tested the connector wires No.2 a brown and mauve wire showed 3.7v the No.1 black showed zero and the No.3 & 4 seemed to show spurious readings of not very much.....

The newer wiring diagram shows four wires going to that connector.

I think yours might be discoloured which are confusing things slightly.

It should be:

Pin 1: Black
Pin 2: purple / brown
Pin 3: white
Pin 4 white / blue

This more or less fits with yours, except your whites are looking yellow. (No offence 😂)

Pin 3 & 4 are HSCAN data wires, 3 is negative and 4 is positive.

Pin 2 comes from the BCM, marked as ESCL HSD

Pin 1: comes from the instrument cluster. I can't quite tell the purpose of this one. As it is black you would assume ground but it doesn't identify it as ground.


It does seem confusing though. If you look at pre facelift or facelift emulator modules, they have the same 3 wires and nothing more (data, gnd, power).

Hope this helps.

The pre facelift wiring diagram shows only 3 wires

Pin 3 = Black / Purple - this connects to GND which also connects to the instrument cluster.
Pin 2 = Green / Orange - this comes from a relay
Pin 4= Grey / Blue - this comes from the CEM and is identified as LIN1


So that looks like data on 4, power on 2 and gnd on 3 with nothing on pin 1.

I can't see how the emulators with the same wiring can work on both, they certainly seem to be advertised to work on both though.

Ask some of the emulator retailers if they can confirm it definitely works on facelift models. If they (or anyone else on here can confirm that) then, your purple/brown wire is your positive, your white (HSCAN -) is the gnd, and your white/blue is the data.

I'm making lots of assumptions there though, hopefully others can chip in.

Nbuuifx, do you have a picture of the post facelift wiring diagram? As you say, it makes no sense that the emulator can work on all models the way they appear to be wired. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Last edited by Badger51 on 10th Feb 2022 6:44 am. Edited 1 time in total

....."....and hundreds of years from now people will sit around campfires and talk about Nbuuifx and how he figured it all out....."

Thats fantastic thank you so much.....this week I have learned that you can in fact feel the 'Blank Stare' down a telephone line whenever I mentioned I have four wires.....ha! I have an Emulator winging it's way to me right now so better check if the connector fits with your description....accepting of course your caveat that you may be wrong. But it sounds like you have seen the correct wiring diagram?

Badger51 yes, your correct, it makes no sense that they can work on all models. But I have read on here or another forum where someone bought one and it didn't fix the problem so perhaps the wrong wiring....or....that wasn't the problem anyway. Too be honest I'm not so hopeful this is going to fix it for me. With so many spurious faults coming up in the message centre there may be other gremlins working their dickdastardly ways. However, when the generic diagnostic guys were here and spoke with a guy from Land Rover Nicosia he said ignore the other faults.....it's the steering lock. We shall see. For sure I still have to have the door lock checked out as this is faulty and be causing some other issues.

I too would be interested to see a wiring diagram of my car if there is one floating about?

Thanks again Nbuuifx.....have to dash.....off to have a Colour Blind test this morning lol!

Hopefully you can see these, if not try clicking on my gallery and you might be able to see them better there...

Click image to enlarge

Hi....yes I can read those diagrams......

Is this a diagram downloaded from JLR Topix site? Perhaps I should register with them and download a copy for myself.....I have got a copy of a wiring diagram for the Freelander 2 but it's clearly not for my vehicle year. I traced the two earth points for the steering lock module underneath the drivers seat. The carpet has little flaps in it where the chassis studs are but nothing is connected to them as the diagram suggests so clearly some major differences in the wiring loom from year to year......

I've ordered a Steering Lock Emulator now and though I'm now confident it's the correct one with exactly the right connector for my car I'm nervous it will reveal that this is not the problem with my car not starting. But we shall see and I will report back once I know it.

Thanks for the help.

Mine started to come apart after a few weeks of driving so I think it’s good practice to put a bit of electrical tape around the emulator.

Swanny wrote:

Hi....yes I can read those diagrams......

Is this a diagram downloaded from JLR Topix site? Perhaps I should register with them and download a copy for myself.....I have got a copy of a wiring diagram for the Freelander 2 but it's clearly not for my vehicle year. I traced the two earth points for the steering lock module underneath the drivers seat. The carpet has little flaps in it where the chassis studs are but nothing is connected to them as the diagram suggests so clearly some major differences in the wiring loom from year to year......