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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > AC Clutch Magnet Not Working. Removed Clutch Spacer Washers
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ribama1



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: brisbane
Posts: 73

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey
AC Clutch Magnet Not Working. Removed Clutch Spacer Washers

While doing some other work on my freel2 I broke the plug leading to the electromagnet. I rigged something up to replace it but soon afterwards the electromagnet stopped working, and the AC stopped. The electromagnet (or diode in it) was fried. A new electromagnet also only worked for a couple of months.

Its mid summer in Queensland so I have decided take out the spacer washers that sit on the spline that keeps the clutch plate from engaging when the electromagnet is off. This has the effect of keep the clutch engaged at all times.

The effect of this seems to be that the radiator fan comes on as pressure builds and the ac is cold again.

I'm not thinking of this as a permanent solution but something that can tide me over until I can get another new clutch assembly.

The 3 things that I could see going wrong are:

1. This is potentially a more abrupt start for the compressor which I guess could damage it.

2. If the compressor seizes and the mechanical connection I have made is stronger than the electromagnet connection this could force something else to break the auxiliary belt or something on it.

3. If the engine overheats and the computer can't shut off the AC as a safety measure, then the overheating could be worse.

There are two wires leading to the electromagnet one is grey and one is black with yellow strip. My testing shows that the grey is positive. and the black is negative. It seems to put out about 14v when the aircon is on.

I'm just so feed up with it.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions or thoughts.

Post #417167 17th Jan 2022 2:13 am
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ribama1



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: brisbane
Posts: 73

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Update: I just couldn't do it. I pulled the clutch assembly off the fl2 again and tested the clutch coil. It tested at 7ohms which should mean it is good. I know about 14.2 volts is coming along the cable so the coil should be working. The only thing left was the plug so I cut it off and put a new plug on. Problem solved. The pins on the plug were not making a good connection.

Cold air again with on/off functionality.

Post #417168 17th Jan 2022 6:50 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 962

Australia 

Glad to hear you sorted it without resorting to the bodge up Rolling with laughter (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #417169 17th Jan 2022 7:35 am
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2184

United Kingdom 

The other down side to the bodge (I put a self tapping screw through the clutch on mine!) is that the refrigerant contains the lubricant. If you lose pressure the car cuts the clutch and the compressor doesn't seize.

I would like to add that the self tapping screw was a temporary job until th enew unit could be fitted a couple of weeks later Wink Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #417176 17th Jan 2022 12:04 pm
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