My 2008 freelander 2 keeps going into limp mode and it has me baffled
When it first started it was fairly random and you could go a few days fine then it would come up with restricted performance message and go into limp mode until the next restart
It eventually came so you cannot drive more than 30 seconds before I get limp mode
At this point I still had no codes but a couple of days on I got an egr positional error code
As the egr was already blanked and I fancied a remap anyhow I took it and got it mapped out
Unfortunately this didn't work and I am now at a loss
I no longer get the restricted performance message or engine light but do get limp mode
The mapping guy had a better code reader than mine and it did have a couple more codes before the remap
One was turbo actuator related
And the other glow plug circuit error
The turbo one didn't come back but the glow plug code is back straight away as soon as cleared
I have checked the turbo actuator and it's as free as any I have ever checked

I am now at a loss where to look next

I have crawled over the live data and 2 things scream out at me as possible issues
Egr valve is still commanding various openings and the actual opening is often at odds with the commanded
Has the mapper done half a job ? Turned off code reporting and Eml but not actually turned off the egr ?
Throttle actuator
The actual position reports as an error nearly all the time until it drops into limp mode then it reports as no error

Its really odd when not in limp mode it runs great loads of power with no obvious signs of a problem other than the 1800rpm judder that everyone seems to suffer it just drops into limp mode and no power if its cold when it drops into limp mode it can stall (auto)

If any one could give me a clue it would be fantastic

Just wondering why fiddle with the EGR in the first place, why have it blanked

EGR is a horrible system that feeds exhaust gasses back into the engine via the intake manifold it lowers certain emissions and raises others and clogs the engine up and generally causes problems
On the early cars they can be blanked without a problem because the ecu only looks for the egr to be connected and responding to its commands if it says open 75% and it reports back it has opened 75% all is good
Problem with mine was the valve had just failed and reported positions were not what was commanded
So I could do a few things to fix it
1 strip and clean the valve and try get it working
2 fit a new valve
3 get it mapped out
I opted for 3 but now wondering if I made the right choice

2 things stand out. The EGR and the TB, both can cause issues, and both are showing codes, so you have an idea as to what to replace.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

My feelings are that JLR (and Suppliers) spent a lot of time and money designing the hardware and software of the FL2.

Any unauthorised changes can cause unexpected consequences.

You may have to go back to square one (re-instate changes) and start there. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Nodge68 wrote:

2 things stand out. The EGR and the TB, both can cause issues, and both are showing codes, so you have an idea as to what to replace.

My feeling is your remapper is ! If the egr is showing as being commanded open and the feedback is showing a similar value, its still in operation!

On the 2nd visit he has cleared all the dtc tables which stops the eml lamp coming on.

You still have a fault causing the limp mode, and it could easily be turbo actuator, tb or egr doing it.

Get the ecu flashed back to completely stock by LR or similar.
Then read the codes. If its going into limp mode, there *WILL* be a code or codes logged.

Cheers folks for the help so far
Today I changed the throttle body and it has made no difference
I agree with timbo at this point the the remap is not right and I am off back tomorrow to look at it with the mapper
I have checked the turbo actuator and it moves very easily when I take one end off and when it's back together with someone starting the car and reving it it moves about just fine until it drops into limp mode and then goes to the extreme end of its travel and sits there I assume this is intended behaviour due to the limp mode wanting minimal boost

Update I seem to have cured the problem
After shredding my hands and lots of swearing I managed to unplug the EGR and all seems to be good now
So my gut that the re map wasn't done quite right holds true
Anyway it's a huge relief I have sorted it