Had discs and rotors replaced by usual mechanic about a month ago. Doesn’t seem to brake as well as before and have noticed a lot of brake dust on rear brakes but not the front

Also rears have slight lip on discs and front have none

Will take back tomorrow for a once over .
Is it possible for only the rear to be braking ?
Cheers

Shouldn't be possible on the hydraulic end of things. The brake hydraulics should be divided for redundancy so that the L front and R rear brake are on the same line and the R front and L rear are on the other redundant line. I think all modern cars work this way.

Now if your guy really screwed up the front install, maybe the fronts are jammed and won't engage the pads?

It's normal for front and rear to have different amounts of dust, but usually the fronts have more. But possible the break-in is making extra dust.

Also possible that if you have a different type of pad installed the brakes might feel differently. If you had ceramics before and went to organic or metallic you might notice a difference. Might get better after break-in, maybe.

Pejo wrote:

Had discs and rotors replaced by usual mechanic about a month ago. Doesn’t seem to brake as well as before and have noticed a lot of brake dust on rear brakes but not the front

Also rears have slight lip on discs and front have none

Will take back tomorrow for a once over .
Is it possible for only the rear to be braking ?
Cheers

The Freelander has proper brake system. Cross diagonal dual circuit, not like some others which are front back circuits. 80% of the braking is on the front.

New pads will feel a bit softer until bedded in.

For my previous cars I used to get the pads re-shoed with metal pads. A lot less dust & braked better after multiple braking.

I kept the old rear pads from the Freelander, still on the original front ones.

It is so long since I got the pads re-shoed I am not sure if you can still get it done. Auto One arranged it & it was reasonably priced, but it was a decade ago. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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I take it the brake lines have been bled every 3 years. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Will take it to local mechanic tomorrow. Didn’t think it would be possible but maybe the wrong adjustment of handbrake initially
I doubt the fluid has been flushed every 3 years but don’t know of many cars that have
Cheers

AFAIK there is no adjustment to be made with an electric handbrake - its uses an electric motor, activated by the switch in the cabin, to push the disk brake pads onto the disk. It adjusts itself when its put into service mode.

If its not reset I imagine it could cause cause the rear pads to bind and wear excessively, causing the lip on the rear disk (rotors) after only a month of use.

The manual handbrake (with a lever you pull on) is a completely different system.

The electric handbrake is not shown in the JLR workshop manual as its only on post 2012 cars. Jules

Hi, that amount of wear already? According to the Freelander Specialist in Methwold, any faults with the handbrake will cause trouble with the four wheel drive units such as rear differential and front Bevel Box. They said that is what wrecked my diff. and bevel box.

As pointed out by Jules, the OPs FL2 is a 2014 so will have the electronic handbrake - a completely different system than the manual handbrake fitted to earlier models, that uses separate shoes not the main pads as the electronic does. Whilst the manual handbrake can cause drivetrain issues if badly fitted/adjusted the electronic system certainly should not.

The electric handbrake is also self adjusting (it even adjusts after the vehicle is parked to allow for the contraction of parts as they cool).

It seems unlikely to me that a mechanic would have been able to get the old pads off if the release procedure was not done for the electronic handbrake & even more unlikely that it could have been reassembled with new disks and pads (which would be much thicker than those removed) - I guess it is possible that the electric drive that applies the handbrake force to the main pads was forced back - but I think that would take the kind of effort that even the most mechanically inept would have paused to wonder what they were doing wrong.

First port of call to me would be the slider pins - are the calipers free to move from side to side? is one pad and one side of the disk more worn than the other? if not sliders then maybe a stuck piston? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Plus one for the slider pins!

I used to run Saabs for many years and they were notorious for wearing out one side of the rear discs and pads if the slider pins were not regularly lubricated.

I very much doubt dealers bother to lubricate the slider pins on routine brake pad and disc changes.

I do my own brakes now but from past experience there are very few garages that do clean & lube slider pins on replacing disks & pads.

The sliders often have a hard deposit that needs gently scraping off before refitting with Red Rubber grease (is what I use) but I'm told silicone brake grease is rubber safe also, I lube the slider itself and the inside of its rubber bush. If they don't slide freely after this there may also be a hard deposit on the outside of their bush (which squishes the bush & makes the slider stick) if so just pop out the bush & scrape its housing back to the correct size round hole (I had this issue on the rear calipers for a Honda Civic) 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Cheers guys for the information. Only able to get back to mechanic on Friday so will see what’s up. Maybe the slider pins as you say. The initial service noted disabling electronic park brake so that’s out of the equation. The guy has been great for years but does have apprentices now so hopefully nothing to serious
Will update if anything is found

A bit off topic and a seemingly stupid question but I have just fitted a new front knuckle and bearing/hub (gen) on Td4 2010. Bought a new brake disc retaining screw (LR002080) but it is so tight after only 3 turns that I don’t dare do it up. The threads on the screw and in the hub seem fine. Can anyone tell me if it is also their experience that it is very tight? I have no desire to ram it in there given the previous one sheared off.

Many thanks.

Those should not be tight at all until they seat flush. Sounds like the wrong screw, with mismatched threads.

Normally that screw exists just to keep the rotor aligned and from falling off during install and breaking a factory worker or mechanic's foot... personally I would be OK leaving it out and that's common enough practice for mechanics. I had to drill one out doing a brake job on another car once, had philips slots and was rusted in. Now I only re-install them if they're rust free and I use anti-sieze to avoid future hassle.

EDIT: Google says that part number is for 2012 and later MY.

Do you know the make of pads and rotors/discs that were fitted and are they the same make both front and rear.