Hi I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to use underneath my freelander for corrosion protection?

Thanks min advance

Mike

Are you doing it yourself or taking it to a company to do ? I’ve done some research it seems there is good old Waxoyl and some very good Bilt Hamber products but they don’t do one that kills existing rust. Also check out Krown rustproofing
https://www.facebook.com/krownuk/

Cheroke140 wrote:

Hi I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to use underneath my freelander for corrosion protection?

Thanks min advance

Mike

SYFL2 wrote:

and some very good Bilt Hamber products but they don’t do one that kills existing rust.
https://www.facebook.com/krownuk/

Yes they do, and very good stuff……Hydrate-80  Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Although with older (pre 1970-80) vehicles any bare metal rusted very quickly and therefore needed regularly coating with an air/moisture barrier, I am not so sure that this is benificial to modern galvanised cars.

Any build up of material on the surface of the metal will only trap water and hide any corrosion until it is to late. Surely the best way to maintain the modern rust-proofing is to regularly inspect, clean, and apply a zinc based paint/treatment to any offending areas.

When I lived in Germany in the mid 1960s, I noticed that lots of the local population put their cars into a local garage each Autumn and Spring to swap Winter/Summer Tyres and have their cars undersides cleaned and resprayed with an oil/wax coating. As the winters were a bit more severe than here and the roads were left untreated (snow/ice) it seemed a good idea.

I still think that if you do not regularly maintain any coating then you are doing more harm than good.

https://www.hagerty.com/media/automotive-h...e-of-rust/

PS I must get round to removing the plastic guards and trim on my FL2. (Therefore practice what I preach) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

"Any build up of material on the surface of the metal will only trap water and hide any corrosion until it is to late."

Certainly that was a problem in the past. I remember my dad's cars, they had a black underseal sprayed on when built. It became hard with time and cracked - allowing water in under capillary action and rotted away the steel behind the so-called protection.
Wax based products don't seem to dry out and crack - it remains pliable. It will be eventually worn away by continued tyre spray. But in areas where its not directly under fire from tyre spray it seems to last well and is a good barrier to salty water. I sprayed all underneath and the subframes of the FL2 when I installed the towbar. I later did behind the wheel arch covers. Jules

i wd40 all known areas for corrosion,ie subframes,power steering pipes,jacking points,etc in fact ive just done the car everywhere underneath this week,i do it twice a year,it takes about 15 mins.the wd 40 forms a film better than any underseal,but needs to be done regularly.i did the same with my land rovers inthe past it kept them rust free.and wd does not harm rubber,infact it helps reduce squeaks.