First off thanks for letting me register 😊

I have a 56 plate freelander 2 with the 2.2 Peugeot engine in it. Was driving along, went to overtake a slow vehicle (30mph slow) took it from 6th down to 4th and accelerated to pass. There was a very slight pop sound and the engine cut out and won't restart.

Have put a brand new bosch battery on and hasn't made any difference. It cranks but after a couple of seconds it sounds like there's a significant reduction in compression. The rev counter moves while it's cranking so presumably the crankshaft sensor is fine. Connected the icarsoft v3 to it and all the codes that comes up is glow plug circuit high and another code is for air intake position sensor. The timing belt is still in place from what I can see. Haven't stripped everything down cause I've had very little time to do anything. If anyone can point me in the right direction be greatly appreciated. I'm about ready to scrap it and buy something else that isn't landrover.

If it was during an acceleration, then a pop and later it seems it doesn't have compression, then it may be a good candidate for a broken camshaft...
Take down the high pressure fuel pump and look at the camshaft end, at the connection with the pump.
You may additionally want to look here: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10702.html

It does seem to have compression for the first couple of revolutions if that makes sense then sound like a strained hairdryer 😂😂 it’s not like it sounds like a motor just spinning like there is absolutely no compression but sure you understand what I mean. I’ll take a look though so thanks for that. Appreciate your help. I’ll keep you posted. But if you or anyone else has any other suggestions in the meantime just post it.

When was the timing belt replaced? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

No idea tbh. I've only had it a couple of months. I asked the mechanic guy I bought it from and he didn't know either. I've just had the hp pump and the bit on the other cam off and both seem to be fine. No play or broken bits I can see. Shone a torch right in so had plenty visibility. There's a fair bit of oil sitting around the camshaft sensor but it's not throwing up any codes. There's oil in the air supply pipe from the air filter to the turbo but only from the little pipe that comes up from the back and joins onto the pipe. It's totally clear from the filter to that little pipe. Don't know if that's relevant or not. Was a few blown fuses so replaced all of them, made no difference. Used a jump lead to act like a second earth from the negative terminal on the battery to the bolt of the starter. Just cause I'd read about it and thought I'd at least try it. But nothing seems to be making any difference. The timing belt is whole but don't know if its jumped a tooth.

Don't know if this is a new thing or not, but the fuel lines to the hp pump sit pretty much empty and when it's cranking it looks more like air with a bit of fuel than just fuel, wondered if there was a pump that should come on with the ignition or something or if the hp pump creates enough of a vacuum to keep it going. Can't see where the low pressure pump is to see if its faulty. Had a look beside the back wheel nothing. The fuel lines come out of the sender unit in the top of the tank then run along the chassis to the engine. Is there a low pressure pump in the engine bay? Or is it just a small pump in the tank to take fuel across from the other side of the "saddle"? Sorry for the ignorance, tractors is what I'm used to working on 😂

Don't know if this is a new thing or not, but the fuel lines to the hp pump sit pretty much empty and when it's cranking it looks more like air with a bit of fuel than just fuel, wondered if there was a pump that should come on with the ignition or something or if the hp pump creates enough of a vacuum to keep it going. Can't see where the low pressure pump is to see if its faulty. Had a look beside the back wheel nothing. The fuel lines come out of the sender unit in the top of the tank then run along the chassis to the engine. Is there a low pressure pump in the engine bay? Or is it just a small pump in the tank to take fuel across from the other side of the "saddle"? Sorry for the ignorance, tractors is what I'm used to working on 😂

Click image to enlarge

pump in tank is just to move fuel from one side to the other
pipes from filter to hp pump should be full 2007 hse gone
214xs

The pump in the tank is just keeping a swirl pot full from the other side of the saddle tank. The hp pump sucks fuel up from the tank and the line from the tank to the filter and the filter to the pump should have fuel in them.

That's what I thought. Tanks half full so wouldn't need the pump to transfer fuel across. There's no visible leaks on the fuel lines, or couplings on the filter. Is there a way to bleed the system? Didn't see a primer pump or anything like that. Tractors are easy, just crack the supply lines onto the injectors, get someone to turn the key and tighten the injector lines once it's a steady flow of fuel to them. It usually starts 😂 don't think that would work here though. Has to be something wrong somewhere.

In order to speed up the fault finding process and to eliminate the fuel starvation problem, supply the fuel from a bottle, just before the filter.
Don't forget to fill the fuel filter with fuel if it's empty now.
Use a hand primer to fill the system and the fuel lines.

I'll give that a go, really appreciate the help folks. Is it better to put the hand primer in the return to the tank line or somewhere else? Like the return from the hp pump to the filter, or does it not really matter?

If the filter is of good quality - as it has inside a thermo-valve which recirculates the fuel on some conditions for heating up the filter - put it on the supply to filter.
So bottle - primer - filter - HPFP - return to filter - bottle.

To be clear here - has the Cambelt actually been inspected?? Strained hair drier cranking sound is 100% no compression i.e. cams out of sync with rest of engine!

Is there a bleed screw somewhere? Everytime I go to try cranking the engine the lines to the hp pump just run with air. Second you stop pumping the primer pump it just runs the fuel back to the filter and the pipes fill with air. Double checked that the connections on the filter were on and tight, no sound of air in or out.