My car is a TD4_e and there's a little green arrow that light up when to shift up.
It tells me to shift up at about 1800 rpm but then the car struggles a bit to get going: deep roar with more temmors, so I shift up above 2000 rpm. Power seems to pick up at around 2200 rpm, which I currently stay away from as I still breaking it in.

I get a mpg of about 33.6 which is kinda low for an eco-version. would expect at least 37.

I also want to mention the car has done some 700 miles only and the given mpg is from the breaking in period, tough I'm getting the same results now even with a more fluid driving style.

Also I see some people having +40 mpg so I'd like to know their driving style.

Guess the arrows only come with the .e  2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

Yes, but that's not the issue. The fact it's an "e" should mean I at least should get 37 mpg but I only manage 33.

The engines the same, car weighs the same, the wheels and tyres are the same, transmission ratio's are the same, back axle is the same.

No one changed the roads overnight and air is still air, so the power to overcome rolling resistance plus grade resistance plus aerodynamic resistance is the same.

There hasn't been any fundamental shift in the laws of physics meaning a totally different air fuel ratio can be employed, so the fuel used to generate the same need for power is the same.

Discounting the possibility that LR use magic fairy dust in the e model, then 33-35mpg sounds just about right to me. 58 HSE, auto, lago grey, tints. Mine and my dogs Storm and Sky
TT Quattro, black. Ers.
AC Cobra rep in build. Ars.

I would give the engine time to loosen up a bit say in another 10 or 15000 its a diesel if you drive it hard it will have power drive it like miss daisey and it will always be slugglish 07my Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Baltic Blue,Privacy Glass,Ebony black leather,Land rover detachable towbar,S/S Side bars,Climair wind deflectors,Bramble Rash,

I agree with what you say stormsky, but seeing as most people seam to get 37/38 mpg, I'd like to have mine doing that too.

Maybe, as it's still new and I still have to go back for a 3000km/2000mile checkup, the fuel consumption is set a bit rich.

I've been driving like an old f*rt and still mange only 33 mpg. I just want to know how you get to 37. If I don't like the drivingstyle to achive that I wont bother, but the way I'm driving now is too boring. And instead of trying to find out by trial and erro I'm just looking for tips. Maybe I have to floor it after every gearshift till 4000rpm to get to 37mpg, but I doubt it .

I'm also doing the reliability survey, so other could benifit knowing.

Did anyone see improvement on that part after their first checkup? If so I'm probably wasting my time trying.

New I couldn't get mine above 28 mpg. Once it had a couple of thousand on it and it loosened up I started to get 34.

If I drive really carefully I can get 38-40, but I get bored and go back to driving it like I stole it. Right now I average 33.

As a rule of thumb shift up somewhere around peak torque and you'll be most fuel efficient. In reality thats only true for an engine with a wide open throttle, but its a good enough approximation for most occasions. 58 HSE, auto, lago grey, tints. Mine and my dogs Storm and Sky
TT Quattro, black. Ers.
AC Cobra rep in build. Ars.

the test used by eu white coats that derives fuel consumption includes a few periods of idling (to reflect stationary traffic I imagine), it is at these points where the benefit of s/s comes in. so if you mainly drive on constant speed, flowing traffic (i.e. no stops) you'll see no difference between a car with and without s/s.

But going to work it stops 5 or 6 times at least on a 25 mile trip. Again going back home.
In fact I have about 1/3th of normal traffic, 1/3th of busy traffic and 1/3th of highway.

Also if the time spend stopping is to short I turn off the system, otherwise I'd have 20 more 1 second stops more.
If it stops it's mostly for a red light which easily takes 30 seconds.

So the I should have benefit from the s/s.

Based on stormsky's reply, as I already have 33 mpg and he had 28 mpg when new, I should easily reach 37/38 mpg and if I drive carefully 43/45 mpg when the car has loosened up.

That would be more then fine as 33 mpg gives me the same fuel cost as my previous 1600cc pertrol engined car.

I can drive about 750kms/470miles on a full fuel tank.

Its not quite as simple as all that as the problem isn't linear.

There's an optimum fuel usage condition for an engine design which can't be improved upon. What I mean by that is if the BSFC map indicates for example the optimum fuel usage is at 1800 rpm for say, a 50 hp load equating to say 200 g/kwhr fuel use, then thats it. It doesn't matter if you choose to drive slower or change up earlier. If anything you may find you use more fuel eg at 1200 rpm for the same conditions the engine may use 225 g/kwhr.

If you have a lot of s/s's in your journey you will definately save a lot of fuel by not burning it, and hopefully save a packet of cash, and good for you. But the maximum possible efficiency of the engine can't be improved, the ceiling is where it is.

On a long steady journey there is no difference between a diesel and a diesel e. On a s/s journey you save fuel by not idling. 58 HSE, auto, lago grey, tints. Mine and my dogs Storm and Sky
TT Quattro, black. Ers.
AC Cobra rep in build. Ars.

It's a TURBO diesel engine. And a turbo engine must be driven ON BOOST.
Because the diesel engine is an engine which needs high pressures and the pressure build up inside cylinders is the thing that pushes the rings against the cylinder walls and seals the burning chamber. The greater the pressure, the greater is the efficiency of the engine.
So, relatively heavy foot till aprox 2400 rpm, then change and the rev will fall to aproximative 1800 rpm and again heavy foot till 2400 rpm, change, etc. Remember, max torque is around 2000 rpm.
Once you reach your speed target, stay there with a light foot, around 1500-2000 rpm, just to keep that speed.
Seems to be an uneconomical style of driving, but believe me, it will be better, in fuel eficiency terms than a granny style.
And NEVER full throttle below 1400 rpm, because of the surge phenomena which could occur and ruin in time your turbo.
Sorry about my bad english, but I believe you'll understand me.

i drive using all revs before i change gear

cruise through villages in 4th gear maybe its why may car say 22.4mpg at the moment

when i try to drive in the highest gear possible, i get bored Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

npinks wrote:

my car say 22.4mpg at the moment

we need to speak, I just don't know how you get so low. I know how to extract the best possible mpg and I accept you may find that boring, but I have my moments and drive in a more 'demanding style' but even then I only drop to around 35-36 I really don't know how you get it so low ....

Miss Daisey
Stockport

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i thinks its down to maxing the rev counter in each gear like a sports car

If i am in a 30 i get there ASAP, same as in a cruising on a motorway, get to end of slip road and i am already in the fast lane at 90

I think is a spin off from always driving SRi's  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Just an idea. Are talking UK mpg or US mpg? On my BMW 320d, I have a choice of litres/100km or mpg. The mpg is based on US gallons which are smaller than UK gallons. 1 US gallon = 0.83 UK gallon. Then 33 US mpg = 40 UK mpg.

Of course UK vehicles will be set for UK mpg, but its possible that all export vehicles are set for US mpg.