Today I replaced the prop shaft of my fl2 2007 diesel hse autom. 240000km
Reason was a irritating resonance at 60-110km/hr. Tomorrow I will find out if it workout well.
I used a used part from a 2007 fl2 with 28000km. Yes they do exist, it was from a wreck which had made a roll in 2009. The owner kept the wreck to use it’s parts for a second fl2 which a wrecked engine. But this is actually irrelevant.

I had the Haynes and the original LR workshop manual.

Both state one needs to remove the exhaust to get access. I found out you don’t need to. Which saves a lot of work!

We all know that to remove an exhaust that was never removed in 13 years is a pita. They advise to remove it including the particle filter. This ment I needed to undo three M8 bolts which are very corroded. Soaking it in penetrating oil for two nights did nothing.

So I went to plan b
I removed the three rear rubber bushes (?) that hold up the rear muffler. And the aft rubber bush from the particle filter Lowered the aft muffler about 2 inches. But supported it well on axel stands. Including a support under the particle filter. Do not lower it too much as you might put too much strain on the engine side.

On the front you need to remove the cross member. This will give enough access to undo the front bolts of the prop shaft. But do start with the rear of the prop shaft otherwise the shaft will turn freely as the haldex won’t stop it from turning..

I removed the heat shield in the middle and could move it to the side from between the exhaust pipe and the prop shaft.

I released all four bolts from the two prop shaft bearings.

Removed all bolts from the prop shaft flanges aft and front. A bought new ones. The front flange came loose without a problem. The rear needed the trick as stated in Haynes. Inset a 8 mm bolt in the flange from the rear in the unthreaded hole and the use 2 other 8 mm bolts with the bent brackets that sat under the flange bolts you removed. These go in on either side of the thread-less hole. Now you can push the flange from the haldex. Sounds complicated but works well. Get a Haynes.

For the next step I lowered the aft bearing bracket but let it rest on two long 8 mm bolts I put in so the bracket would be lower and would not rest on the exhaust.,

Now the prop shaft can be removed towards the rear. So make sure you have space behind the car before you start. Also the axel stands should be both on the outer side of the rear muffler.

Installing the new prop shaft is just the reverse procedure.
I hope this helps for those who consider to do the same job.

Just don’t remove the exhaust. Just lower it a bit and a bit to side. Not much lowering is needed.

Good luck

Jaap FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

Interesting idea on the vibe cure
and a clear how to do as well,
Yes, please keep us informed of any! improvements. DAVE.

Actually I forgot some extra info.

To turn the prop shaft you need to have at least one front wheel off the ground and at a certain point you need to start the engine to put the car in neutral. Turn the prop shaft and put it in park again.

Also to use a torque wrench on the front prop shaft flange bolts you can fold back the bracket that holds the two rubber supports of the particle filter. Just undo the two M8 bolts and fold it back. But make sure you support the particle filter.

I wasn’t able to do a test drive to see if the resonating sound is gone. Sorry. Just too much rain to take it off the axel stands. FL2 TD4 HSE 2007 230.000 km
Subaru Outback 2.5 (had it for 20 years) 1996 450.000 km

Hi, I have just bolted a prop-shaft back in after an engine swap. I dropped the front exhaust bracket right off. Leaving the exhaust in place, you need half a dozen three eights socket extension bars and a wobbly joint taped together at the joints. This gives a shallow angle to get a wrench in. I used a thin pry bar under the socket and an adjacent bolt to hold it against the torque. Raise a wheel, or lift one end off the ground.

Old tip to get rid of a vibration. Put a proper Jubilee Clip half way along the prop-shaft section, and rotate the clip in stages until the vibration is gone. The weight of the screw part acts as a counter balance.