Hi all, had a wired fault the other day with my i6, was in traffic at pretty much stand still for ages (so far would be getting hot) and my fuel gauge dropped from nearly half a tank all the way to empty, on noticing this I flicked to range on the computer and that was happily dropping like a stone too until it reached a range of 2 miles, within a couple of minutes I was on the move at 40-50 mph for a couple of minutes and it then went back up to its correct position along with the range back up to 100 or so, nevertheless we got stuck in traffic a minute or two later and the same thing, as before as soon as I got moving it went back to normal!!! Any ideas??

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35913.html?highlight=fuel+gauge FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I would agree with Ian.

Connections inside the fuel tank corrode and cause fuel gauge to drop to zero. Had to do mine a coupe of years back. It's a doable DIY job but tank needs to be taken off the car.
I have no experience with the i6 but I would imagine the fuel tank is the same. Access cannot be gained from under the back seat unless you are prepared to cut out some of the bodywork as fuel sender unit does not line up with the hole in the bodywork.
As Ian points out there are posts on here on how to do it, including one from me. I think they are all diesel cars though. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I had mine done by my local garage that I have used for years. From memory I think it cost £150 oiro, that also included an MOT. There is no need to drop the tank. They did say it was the first one they had done, but they did have info from a independent Landrover outfit they use , and the local main dealer. Both said they never drop the tank, and neither do any main dealer they know of . Anyway it must be a reasonably easy job judging by what I paid .

But before you panic and spend a lot of time/money taking the tank out, the FL2 does seem to be prone to random electrical glitches and comms errors that appear and disappear. I've had a similar loss of tank read-out a couple of times - but it returned to normal and it's not happened in the last 40,000 miles. It may be the tank-wiring lying in wait to finally pack up on me or it may just have been one of these random comms errors, but either way, it doesn't appear to have needed urgent intervention at that time! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Look at this info and pictures from alex_pescaru
He is very knowledgeable about all things FL2

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...el_ssm.pdf

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic3925.html?highlight=fuel+gauge FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thank you all for such helpful replies, I think looking at the info provided (and seeing as it hasn't happened again) I will pass on dropping the tank out at the moment! I also do still wonder what element the heat of the car (being stuck in traffic) has to play in the situation. I have had Landover of many different kinds now since I was 14 and know that they all have there quirks, this one I may live with unless it becomes too frequent.

What you have to b e carful of is it does not shut the Fl2 down completely as happen to me when the gauge dropped on my diesel and the ECU shut the engine down and would not restart it a right pain .

Yes I have heard they can do that, I have spoken to my local LR specialist and they say that it's the connectors to the sender unit (they have done loads apparently) and he mentioned that on the diesel it kills the engine if the range is below 5 miles (I think) to protect the fuel pump but he was honest and said he has no idea if it's the same for the petrol (mine is the only i6 they have dealt with)
Does anyone no if the petrol cuts out? I am pretty sure but not 100% mine has dropped below a reading of 5 miles and has not cut out.

Had mine done at my local trusted spanner’s, cost £125 + vat. Including crimps and tank washer

Philip16storm wrote:

Yes I have heard they can do that, I have spoken to my local LR specialist and they say that it's the connectors to the sender unit (they have done loads apparently) and he mentioned that on the diesel it kills the engine if the range is below 5 miles (I think) to protect the fuel pump but he was honest and said he has no idea if it's the same for the petrol (mine is the only i6 they have dealt with)
Does anyone no if the petrol cuts out? I am pretty sure but not 100% mine has dropped below a reading of 5 miles and has not cut out.